DIY 3pt Frame for old Pull Type Cultipacker

[jmusser15]

I have recently purchased an old 9' Pull Type Cultipacker. I am taking it to a local welding shop to have it converted to a 3pt attachment and cut down to 7'. Anyone have a ideas on the frame I need to support the axle, wheels, etc... I was thinking of having (2) 2x2x3/8 steel tubes for the 7' wide top part of the frame with 1/2" steel plates on the ends to support the axle. Then building a 3pt attachment on top of the steel tubes. Any ideas, recommendations or pics would be great. Thanks.

 

[jimgerken]

I have recently purchased an old 9' Pull Type Cultipacker. I am taking it to a local welding shop to have it converted to a 3pt attachment and cut down to 7'. Anyone have a ideas on the frame I need to support the axle, wheels, etc... I was thinking of having (2) 2x2x3/8 steel tubes for the 7' wide top part of the frame with 1/2" steel plates on the ends to support the axle. Then building a 3pt attachment on top of the steel tubes. Any ideas, recommendations or pics would be great. Thanks.

Leave it pull-type. It will pull easier, follow the terrain better and do a better job with less fuel.

 

[Ford850]

Everythingattachments sells them. Check out their site for some pictures. Tractor Cultipacker 3 Point Hitch, Smooth or with Sprockets

 

[hrcarver]

Thinking about doing the same to mine. I'm using it on half acre spots here and there. It would make for much easier transport. Ever pull one down the highway or a gravel road without a cab?

Huh? I cant hear you!

I really like the leinbach design, looks easy enough.

 

[MMagis]

Why not mount some wheels on top and make it a flip over? Would be a whole lot cheaper and it’s likely something you can do yourself.

 

[sweettractors]

I have recently purchased an old 9' Pull Type Cultipacker. I am taking it to a local welding shop to have it converted to a 3pt attachment and cut down to 7'. Anyone have a ideas on the frame I need to support the axle, wheels, etc... I was thinking of having (2) 2x2x3/8 steel tubes for the 7' wide top part of the frame with 1/2" steel plates on the ends to support the axle. Then building a 3pt attachment on top of the steel tubes. Any ideas, recommendations or pics would be great. Thanks.

We sell several cultipackers a year with the "combo" hitch setup. You leave the tongue on 1 side and put a 3 point on the other. Works great. Ken Sweet

 

[hrcarver]

I thought about using a 2" hitch tube for a removable tongue. You think that would hold up? Might could use some pins for some braces if I had to.

Ken, does your trailer tongue on your combos hang off the back all the time?

 

[sweettractors]

I thought about using a 2" hitch tube for a removable tongue. You think that would hold up? Might could use some pins for some braces if I had to.

Ken, does your trailer tongue on your combos hang off the back all the time?

Yes it hangs off all the time. Kinda watch how long you make it. 3 1/2 - 4 ft is plenty long. Removable is a good idea also. I would use thick wall square tubing and no braces on packer up to 6 ft. Braces past 6 ft. Ken Sweet

 

[LAWALLSTRACTOR]

Put the 3PH frame on top of it, when transporting it tip it back hook up and the tongue will stick straight up in the air.

 

[jenkinsph]

I have recently purchased an old 9' Pull Type Cultipacker. I am taking it to a local welding shop to have it converted to a 3pt attachment and cut down to 7'. Anyone have a ideas on the frame I need to support the axle, wheels, etc... I was thinking of having (2) 2x2x3/8 steel tubes for the 7' wide top part of the frame with 1/2" steel plates on the ends to support the axle. Then building a 3pt attachment on top of the steel tubes. Any ideas, recommendations or pics would be great. Thanks.

I would use 3x3x1/4 or 4x3x1/4 tubing, remember you are picking it up fron each end.Whereas the prior design and steel sizes were for a tow behind. Enclosed is a pic of my landplane I built last year, notice the hitch is in the center of the 8' span, so all the weight and forces can develop quite alot of bending to the tubing if not large enough.

 

[Baby Grand]

I have recently purchased an old 9' Pull Type Cultipacker. I am taking it to a local welding shop to have it converted to a 3pt attachment and cut down to 7'. Anyone have a ideas on the frame I need to support the axle, wheels, etc... I was thinking of having (2) 2x2x3/8 steel tubes for the 7' wide top part of the frame with 1/2" steel plates on the ends to support the axle. Then building a 3pt attachment on top of the steel tubes. Any ideas, recommendations or pics would be great. Thanks.

What is your weight estimate for the cut down 7 foot unit and how much does your tractor weigh? The reason I ask is it might be possible to weld 2 chain hooks - one on top of each bearing plate. This would allow you to pick the whole thing up with 2 short sections of chain attached to a boom pole for transport, and still be able to use it as a drawbar implement. Probably not something you'd want to spend all day driving around with, but for just transport to and from the work area it might be fine. Depending on your implement & tractor weights, weight distribution might not work out.

-Jim

 

[Ford tractor]

Get a firm fixed quote on the cost FIRST. I can see them charging you more to convert than it would cost to buy a 3pt packer.

 

[6011Artist]

I like the idea that was posted about welding 3ph hardware to the existing frame/tongue and then flipping it with tongue straight up in the air to hook up the 3ph. Wouldn't add a lot of weight and shouldn't cost much in materials/time to do it. Great idea.

 

[spo307]

mine was an old durham used a 3x5x1/4 tube 3/8 on the ends, I have a post on here for the build from scratch

 

[Bear Foot Farm]

Leave it pull-type. It will pull easier, follow the terrain better and do a better job with less fuel.

That's great if you don't mind cultipacking everything between where you park and where you NEED to pack

I'd prefer to have both options. With a 3 pt set up, you could pull a drop spreader behind the packer, and with the tongue, you could pull the packer behind a disk

 

[ToadHill]

I like the pull type since I can hook it behind my disk and kill 2 birds with one stone on my last disk trip across the field.

 

[MMagis]

With a 3 pt set up, you could pull a drop spreader behind the packer

How does a pull behind prevent you from doing that? I'll also ask, why would you want to?

 

[Bear Foot Farm]

How does a pull behind prevent you from doing that? I'll also ask, why would you want to?

It would be a lot harder to maneuver in tight spots, and would be nearly impossible to back up pulling two trailer type implements.

The purpose would be to pack and seed in one pass rather than two trips

 

[Kessler Farms]

You want to pack AFTER you seed, not before. Defeats the purpose of a cultipacker. As mentioned previously in this thread, I mounted two old trailer spindles and wheel/tires to mine. To transport, just grab the tongue, flip it over, re-hook , and drive off.

 

[flusher]

You want to pack AFTER you seed, not before. Defeats the purpose of a cultipacker. As mentioned previously in this thread, I mounted two old trailer spindles and wheel/tires to mine. To transport, just grab the tongue, flip it over, re-hook , and drive off.

Neato. Your way is the smart way-- an easy and cheap fix.