DIY 3pt Frame for old Pull Type Cultipacker

[Bear Foot Farm]

You want to pack AFTER you seed, not before

That depends on the soil, and what you're planting.
If you've disked, and want to plant clover, it's best to pack before AND after to break up the clods and level things out so it's not buried too deep

You could also broadcast wheat or rye, and then disk lightly to cover, while pulling the packer behind the disk to firm things up and get better seed to soil contact

 

[Kessler Farms]

I pull a drag behind the disk to level and bust clods. The last thing I want to do before planting is pack the soil. For ryegrass, I do use the cultipacker behind the disk when covering the seed and fertilizer.

 

[MMagis]

The last thing I want to do before planting is pack the soil.

As mentioned, when planting small seed like clover you do want to pack before seeding. I usually pack after as well, but packing first is most important.

 

[sweettractors]

Here is a picture of a Used 8 ft Combo Hitch cultipacker that we sell. Ken Sweet

 

[HCJtractor]

You want to pack AFTER you seed, not before. Defeats the purpose of a cultipacker. As mentioned previously in this thread, I mounted two old trailer spindles and wheel/tires to mine. To transport, just grab the tongue, flip it over, re-hook , and drive off.

That is the ultimate solution. Got a picture? I have been thinking about making one like this, but wondered if you would have enough leverage with the tongue to lift the weight of the rollers to be able to hook it up. I guess an engineer could figure this out.

 

[Devon]

I converted an old pull-type Brillion cultipacker to 3-point last winter. Used it this past spring and it worked great.

Used an H-frame press & oxy-acetylene torch for the bent parts. Hand held drill & hole saw bits for the big holes (don't have a drill press). And a Lincoln Tombstone stick welder.

 

[sweettractors]

I converted an old pull-type Brillion cultipacker to 3-point last winter. Used it this past spring and it worked great.

Used an H-frame press & oxy-acetylene torch for the bent parts. Hand held drill & hole saw bits for the big holes (don't have a drill press). And a Lincoln Tombstone stick welder.

Man, that is a real nice modification. I would suggest to put a cross brace right under the toplink holes, to keep it from springing apart. Ken Sweet

 

[Devon]

I would suggest to put a cross brace right under the toplink holes, to keep it from springing apart. Ken Sweet

That would not work with my quick hitch. There is a brace across the side angled braces that is tough to see in the pics. It is just below and behind the toplink holes. I've used it on five acres so far & it doesn't seem to be moving, so I think that all is well.

BTW, it looked just like the packer in your avatar when I bought it except it was completely rusted. Came with two three-foot packer pups. Bought it at a farm auction for fifty bucks.

 

[sweettractors]

That would not work with my quick hitch. There is a brace across the side angled braces that is tough to see in the pics. It is just below and behind the toplink holes. I've used it on five acres so far & it doesn't seem to be moving, so I think that all is well.

BTW, it looked just like the packer in your avatar when I bought it except it was completely rusted. Came with two three-foot packer pups. Bought it at a farm auction for fifty bucks.

Hey, I see the brace now. Cool :thumbsup: You bought the whole deal for about what 2 used Brillion wheels are worth. Ken Sweet