DIY Home built compact tractor

[GT2]

GT2, Good progress.

Couple points. As you probably know, the radius rods are to prevent front to back motion of the front axle. It is important that you add them! Otherwise the front frame will be twisted to junk on the first pot hole, rock, stump or other obsticle you encounter.

I would also beef up the front frame (and side frame where the radius rods attach) to take up the extra stress. Then again, I would rather weld than repair!

Good looking project so far!

jb

I assume you read the previous posts concerning Radius Rods.
My concern is that since the axle cant twist now, radius rods will twist the axle during movement and cause cracks.
Now I can make the rods long and lower the rearward pivot point so it is level with the axle, to lessen the " twisting and steering" effect. But I'm not sure if its going to be enough.
What If I used rods that had only one pivot point at the axle. This would help resist fore and aft movement of the axle, but not twist it?
Of corse this design would not resist any axle torque twist.

 

[GT2]

Bushing welded to the frame and surface ground.

Rear plate welded to the axle.

The front axle hanging in place all by its self!
Still need to modify the pin.

 

[DieselPower]

Like John B mentioned I still think you will need something like radius rods to keep the axle housing from twisting. The Ford ones I mentioned in the previous post are not solid steel to steel. They have rather hefty rubber bushings on them and considering the limited amount of travel this axle will have the rubber bushings would proably be able to flex enough to prevent binding.

Another suggestion. Your front axle pivot, is it going to be lubricated? You might consider center drilling and cross drilling it and installing a grease fitting so you can grease the bushing/pin to prevent wear.

 

[GT2]

Like John B mentioned I still think you will need something like radius rods to keep the axle housing from twisting. The Ford ones I mentioned in the previous post are not solid steel to steel. They have rather hefty rubber bushings on them and considering the limited amount of travel this axle will have the rubber bushings would proably be able to flex enough to prevent binding.

Another suggestion. Your front axle pivot, is it going to be lubricated? You might consider center drilling and cross drilling it and installing a grease fitting so you can grease the bushing/pin to prevent wear.

My next run to the wrecking yard I'll take a look at some Ford rods.

Yes I plan to cross drill or something to lube the pin.
Thanks, Tim

 

[dfkrug]

GT2, you can't use any side links between the axle and the frame. I
think ZJ_HR stated it first: a radius rod won't work here.
All twisting resistance is in the center pivot, which looks substantial
as you built it. Look at any compact tractor....the front axle pivots
freely on the center pivot only. Grease zerks for your pivot are
mandatory, as stated.

One suggestion: put additional gussets or braces inside your frame
to further resist twisting the frame at the center pivot under 4wd load.

As an illustration, a recent failed pivot pin/bushing I replaced on my
JD955 caused only about 1/2" front-to-back movement at the
front wheels. Failure was due to inadequate lubrication. When replaced,
my new 25mm pin and bushing allowed maybe 1/16" movement.

 

[dayrunr2]

I have worked on tractors for many years and have seen a few of them with a v shaped brace. Here is something that I sketched in MS Paint just to give you an idea of what I am talking about. This is the first time I have tried to attach an image, so I hope it works.

As long as both pins pivot on the same axis, this would work. You can adjust it up or down, or change the rearward angle of the brace for clearance as long as the pin centers stay lined up.

 

[ZJ_HR]

I have worked on tractors for many years and have seen a few of them with a v shaped brace. Here is something that I sketched in MS Paint just to give you an idea of what I am talking about. This is the first time I have tried to attach an image, so I hope it works.

As long as both pins pivot on the same axis, this would work. You can adjust it up or down, or change the rearward angle of the brace for clearance as long as the pin centers stay lined up.

You are right, that's only correct way how to make axle stronger, but question is can it be fitted there?
Due to engine mounting and driving shafts?

 

[GT2]

I have worked on tractors for many years and have seen a few of them with a v shaped brace. Here is something that I sketched in MS Paint just to give you an idea of what I am talking about. This is the first time I have tried to attach an image, so I hope it works.

As long as both pins pivot on the same axis, this would work. You can adjust it up or down, or change the rearward angle of the brace for clearance as long as the pin centers stay lined up.

Ahh, now that makes sense. But as ZJ said, I'll have to check for clearance.
Thanks for the idea!

 

[dayrunr2]

GT2,

I was looking back through your pictures and found what Iwas looking for. In reply #39, the first picture in that set is a mock-up shot from the side. The transfer case and the front drive shaft are also in place (or somewhat near where they will end up, maybe )

As I said before, the angle rearward and the overall length can be altered as long as the pin centers remain aligned. I hope you don't mind but I took the picture I refered to and sketched on my idea of mounting points.

This should give plenty of clearance to the drive shaft and if located in the right place, one cross member could also support the rear of the engine/transmission/transfer case.

Hope all of this makes sense.

MIke

 

[Bill Barrett]

Very ambitious! nice job.