DIY poor man gravel road dust control

[the old grind]

.... humidity does hover around 60% most of the time with average daytime temps usually in the 90ｰF.

CaCl is hygroscopic at >20% humidity. (That's why it works so well, and part of why it is so corrosive.) btw, Rock salt is hygroscopic at >80% humidity.

Yep, Calcium Chloride works but taboo in many areas now due to pollution....
One down side to Calcium Chloride (a salt) is the corrosive effect on vehicles.

CaCL does seem to reduce snow accumulation more readily than it rinses away, and Winter road salt will forever be blamed for what CaCl does in warmer weather. Real culprit is not washing a vehicle often enough or rinsing the bottom thoroughly. (DAMHIKT )

Do not use old crankcase oil.
Calcium chloride was no big deal and one rain seemed to wash it into the subsurface of the road...

Oil doesn't 'wear out'. It becomes acidic, and is not the rust-preventer that 'clean' oil is. (BTDT) 'Acidic oil?' Ask a(nother) machinist what 'sulphurated' (cutting) oil does to alum & to copper-bearing metals by its low PH.
CaCL does 'stay put' as well as any dust reducer.

Another option is (Lignin Sulfonate) or tree sap.

"... Lignin Sulfonate: is a water soluble, non-toxic chemical, otherwise known to most people as "tree sap". Lignin sulfonates are left over after the pulping process removes the cellulosic material from the wood. They work best in arid regions or regions where there are substantial periods of "drought" ..."

...where it is not as easily rinsed off by typical rainfall of 'temperate' areas. L-S (my personal fave) and beet juice are the most environmentally benign but can be pricey, and one of them smells just awful on warm days. (local testing of BJ for dust control was met with numerous complaints of the odor and MI still uses CaCL as a result ...) tog

 

[ovrszd]

Good info. And if I was to use CaCL I would pressurize my tank and spray boom rather than try to pump the CaCL thru a pump. Keeps the pump out of the corrosive material.

 

[sixdogs]

Good info. And if I was to use CaCL I would pressurize my tank and spray boom rather than try to pump the CaCL thru a pump. Keeps the pump out of the corrosive material.

This is a good idea and what I think the towns do. Doesn't seem to be very much pressure.

 

[ovrszd]

This is a good idea and what I think the towns do. Doesn't seem to be very much pressure.

No, wouldn't take much at all, 15 psi would be a bunch. If you had a large tank and filled it half full, for example, it could be pressurized with an air hose at the shop. Then a mechanical valve on the boom line to start/stop the flow.

 

[DaveOmak]

Great article....

Beet juice
Dust: Don't Eat It! Control It!

 

[Speedex]

A friend of mine has a long lane back to his place and he owns a dairy queen. He sprayed old fryer oil on it. It is hard as pavement now and no dust

 

[sixdogs]

This is a good idea and what I think the towns do. Doesn't seem to be very much pressure.

Actually, I've been thinking about this and I recall the calcium chloride was put down dry with a drop type fertilizer spreader maybe 8 ft wide.

 

[dragoneggs]

I'm approximately 1/2 mile from the river, hopefully thats a fair enough distance. Is the CaCL very aggressive as a corrosive?

I was unaware of liquid wood resins? I'm getting the impression that the duration of this method is much shorter?

Hey Klitch... I am all for your dust control... just don't mess with the great wine producing vineyards in your 'neck of the woods'. :laughing: I love the Red Mtn area... in fact, having a glass as we speak!

 

[BHD]

if one uses crank case oil don't tell the epa, they cause on old guy a few towns over, a lot problems, he I think had a old pick up with a tank on the back and a pipe like they use to water areas with, he would go and collect old oil from filling stations and repair shop, and for a few bucks he would sprinkle it in front of a person place on a dirt road, every one was happy, the shops got rid of there old oil, the country person reduced the dust, he made a few bucks, but the epa had a tizzy, but is perfectly fine for the state to put asphalt (which is a oil and it leaches oil) on roads,

 

[Klitch]

Another option is (Lignin Sulfonate) or tree sap. I had it sprayed on for a few years until the company relocated just a little too far away. I now use calcium chloride. Below is a snip from the net:

Lignin Sulfonate: is a water soluble, non-toxic chemical, otherwise known to most people as "tree sap". Lignin sulfonates are left over after the pulping process removes the cellulosic material from the wood. They work best in arid regions or regions where there are substantial periods of "drought"

I called a few places, really hard to find this (or similar tree sugar products) within about 240 miles of here. So naturally that makes the cost go up for me quickly. Otherwise from what I was told over the phone was that these products soak into the ground a few inches easily without pre-soaking. Sounds ideal, but I need something more local than a 6 hour round trip

I found CaCL for approximately $1.74 a gallon a few towns over, I can do that and be home in an hour with it. Nobody said it would bind the road together any differently than the tree sugars. Also, is this corrosive to the point I couldn't flush the tote(s) and the pump with clean water to prevent premature failure?


Used Motor Oil, I don't have that much on hand, I have new neighbors and I'm unsure if they'd call someone like EPA out if I used UMO.

I do think that Used Vegetable Oils could be sourced relatively easily.

That beet juice sounds nice, but also sourcing seems to be an issue here.

Dragoneggs: They're on the other side of that rock, they'll live