DK-40 Hydro fluid/filter change: Methods

   / DK-40 Hydro fluid/filter change: Methods
  • Thread Starter
#11  
Just try to collapse all the hydraulic cylinders to minimize the amount of fluid that is not drained. Probably means laying the boom out straight.

As far as sucking out the oil that is done on boats out of necessity, not because it works better. Hard to beat gravity.

Yeah, I have a boat with a 225HP Yami 4 stroke. which the dealer used the same extractor on that I bought when they did the first service.
I hadn't made the connection to boats with I/O's or inboards needing to extract the oil vs. draining it. Can always lift them up and poke a hole thru the hull in a pinch.:laughing:
 
   / DK-40 Hydro fluid/filter change: Methods
  • Thread Starter
#12  
I agree that retracting the cylinders will put a bit more fluid back into the tank, but just that volume that the rod displaces. Because the rod side of the cylinder fills with fluid as you retract. So you do gain some but not a whole lot

I hear you on that. Would be nice to have a way to get it all, but that's what the filters are for too. Pulling out the dirt and moisture/water.:thumbsup:
 
   / DK-40 Hydro fluid/filter change: Methods #13  
On my DK45S (afa DK451) the hydraulic fluid drains very slowly as long as the fill port is plugged and the dipstick is inserted. I use that fact to modulate how fast the hydro oil drains. That is, I remove the dipstick (or fill cap) to get a high flow rate when the catch bucket is in place and replace it briefly while I swap buckets. I too think a gushing flow helps carry out sludge and metal filings. I routinely use a Topsider-style pump to change engine oil but I don't think that would be good for the hydraulics. I got a lot of unsuspended crap (like metal chips) when I last drained my hydraulic system; I doubt sucking would remove that.
 
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   / DK-40 Hydro fluid/filter change: Methods #14  
By draining one wheel drain first a 4 gal bucket held the drainage and then the other wheel and finely the middle. Worked for me on the DK45HST.
 
   / DK-40 Hydro fluid/filter change: Methods #15  
I drive the rear wheels up on ramps and am able to put 5 gal buckets under the 2 drain holes....easy and cheap.
 
   / DK-40 Hydro fluid/filter change: Methods
  • Thread Starter
#16  
Oldpilgrim, what are you using for ramps? Metal or the plastic/composite? How much does your rig weigh?
 
   / DK-40 Hydro fluid/filter change: Methods #17  
Metal, sorta like these but with more ruggedness built in. Mine are rated at 9000 lbs.

Ironton Detachable Car Ramps — Set of Two 2,500-Lb. Capacity Ramps, Accommodates 5,000 Lbs. Pair | Car Truck Ramps| Northern Tool + Equipment

My 3016 isn't anywhere near that. Even with my bh on, which it wasn't, it's less than that.

I'd think that most any CUT/ tractor would probably weigh in at under 5000 at the rear wheels, if there's no bh on it.

I have wood ramps I use for leveling my motorhome, and if I didn't have these metal ramps, Ī'd consider making some out of 2x10's just for this.


these would work:
RhinoGear 12,000 Pound Automotive Ramp | Product Details | Pep Boys

or these:
Hopkins/12000 lbs. RhinoRamps Max 11909MI at AutoZone.com - 9 reviews

I bet you'd find other uses for them too.
 

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