DK35 not wanting to turn over

[double hunter]

My DK 35 is not wanting to turn over,,its been getting slower,,I went and bought new battery 2 days ago and it cranked right up,,tried to crank it today and it would hardly turned over,,had to keep bumping the sw,,finally got it to crank,,the battery should still be hot as I disc the pos. side when I parked it,,didnt run it very long after installing new battery,,It is colder today though but not much,,I installed a new starter a couple months ago,,any ideas

 

[ritcheyvs]

Possibilities: dirty key switch (squirt wd40 in keyhole), failing battery cable (try bypassing with jumper cable), starter failure (short small starter terminal to starter solenoid battery terminal to see if it cranks), failing battery (measure voltage under load), starter relay on firewall (swap with stop relay), or bad safety switch (gear or hydrostat have different safeties).

But please don't just swap parts. Diagnose the cause first.

 

[VictorW]

Turning over slow and needing to keep bumping the key switch seems like two different problems. Key switches can get gummed up and ritcheyvs advise will normally get the key switch working. Spray it in and turn the key back and forth. The key switch doesn't have the full load of the starter. It's just a low amp connection switch. The turning over slow is mainly starter current draw and available battery power but there are parts in between that may be faulty. You have both new starter and battery so that should be 99% eliminated. As ritcheyvs advised, check battery cables. They can corrode within the insulation at the terminal and be hard to see. Check and clean the connection of the ground cable to the frame. He also mentioned other points to check.

 

[Hill Billy Bob]

I'd almost bet it's the battery ground cable. They are known to go bad, while looking fine, corrode badly under the insulation, where it can't be seen. As suggested above, use a jumper cable from negative post on battery, to a good ground point.

 

[swnoel]

Is the alternator providing the required charge? How about this?? https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...-kioti-dk-45-starter-problem.html#post5275919

 

[Kioti Paul]

All the above suggestions are great ones, but just judging by your description, it sounds to me that your charging circuit may not be working. This is where a volt meter is invaluable. Check the battery voltage at the terminals (not at the cable clamp ends). If the voltage is 12.5 +/-, then the charging system is (probably) OK, if the voltage is below 12 volts, the probability of the charging system being the culprit is high.

If the voltage is low, either charge the battery or jump it with your car battery. With the tractor running (at least at 1,200 RPM +/-) (and with the charger, or jumper cables removed) again check the battery voltage. It should be between 13 and 14 volts, if it is, then turn on all the lights (& anything else that you can think of that draws current) the voltage should remain unchanged (it will vary by several 1/10's of volts, that's normal). With everything "turned on", if the battery voltage remains above 13 volts, my guess about the charging system being bad was wrong....then follow ritcheyvs's advice (in my opinion, it is solid) - BTW, although quite rare, it wouldn't be the first time I've seen a brand new battery that was bad.

If the voltage does stay below 13 volts while running - check the tightness of the fan belt. It should take around a 5 - 7 lb "push" to deflect the belt about 1/2 inch. (do I need to say to shut the engine off first??):laughing:

Good Luck! Keep us advised on what you find

 

[Kioti Paul]

BTW, I wanted to comment on "turning over slow, and the need to keep 'bumping' the start switch". Those two 'things' are actually (almost always) related. What is happening is that the starting circuit is weak, and as the piston comes up on the compression stroke, the starter is not able to overcome the resistance of compression, everything stops, and the operator releases the switch. The 'pent up' compression then bleeds off, so that when the key is turned once again to start, it is beginning at the top of the compression stroke. When it comes back around to compression (with any luck) there will be enough 'momentum' to carry it through the next cycle.

When a starter first begins to turn (or anytime it is not turning) it draws an incredible amount of power (300 amps is common), when the starting circuit is working properly, it only takes a split second for the starter to 'get up to speed', and the current draw will drop to a much more reasonable 100 amps, or less. It is a classic "catch 22", the starter demands more from a weak battery, than from a strong one,, (Strong remains strong, weak get weaker) such is the cycle of life!!

 

[k0ua]

If the voltage does stay below 13 volts while running - check the tightness of the fan belt. It should take around a 5 - 7 lb "push" to deflect the belt about 1/2 inch. (do I need to say to shut the engine off first??)

YES!.. yes you do need to say that. You have to remember some folks, have no experience with anything mechanical or electrical.

 

[Kioti Paul]

YES!.. yes you do need to say that. You have to remember some folks, have no experience with anything mechanical or electrical.

AWWW! come on!!!

 

[double hunter]

Problem solved,,Defective positive battery cable,,,