DK40 clicks but won't turn over, battery ok

[xcgreene]

Something else that’s easy to investigate before digging in, My DK45 with only 60hrs on it would not start on occasion, clicking of starter but could not draw enough current to turn at all. I found that the relay for the starter, (the middle one mounted on the dk's fire wall) was slowly failing. It would contact and click, but had poor connection inside. This relay is a blue omron 12volt 30/20 amp 5 pin. very common. I swapped out the relay with a compatible one from amazon (5 for $8) and away I went. Amazon.com: Absolute USA RLS125-5 SPDT 30/40A 12 VCD Automotive Relay - 5 Pack: Car Electronics

 

[zombie]

Easy check for the relay, remove it and jump pin 30 to 87. THIS WILL MAKE THE TRACTOR CRANK OVER. If it doesn't, problem is elsewhere. But if it does crank over multiple times, then it will be the relay most likely. I only say that cause there can always be some ridiculous exception. Volt drop with a multi meter is the best test for this exact kind of issue.

 

[caver]

Appreciate the help. Does anyone have the schematic for the key switch? I saw one in an older thread but the image was unreadable when I zoomed in.

 

[caver]

Just told 159$ for a service manual from my dealer. It was painful enough last year paying 185$ plus shipping on my backhoe (original/NOS) manual last year.....I'll hold off on that for now.

 

[ritcheyvs]

This link wil take you to a site where you can download a service manual for your tractor.

The key switch is very simple. The key rotates a copper disk that has raised arcs that contact (or don't contact) metal "buttons attached to each of the wires. Sometimes the disk or buttons get corroded or dirty producing unreliable connections. But given the immediate "click" each time you turned the switch to crank, the relay is a more likely culprit.

 

[caver]

I feel dumb, I had forgotten that I had saved those PDF files back when that link was first shared. :duh:

 

[ritcheyvs]

I purchased the paper service manual and parts manual (as well as a redundant owner's manual) from a dealer shortly after I bought my tractor. Still, I find the pdf service and owners' manuals much more convenient; I just pull up the relevant digital section on the PC vs digging out the paper books (which are not small). Also, I can search for key words in the pdf file and the online parts manuals (sponsored by some dealers) are somewhat updated vs. the paper parts manual which has zero updates. Be aware that the service manuals may not document your exact tractor. For example, the only available service manual for the DK45s shows the early (pre 2006) engine. I need to look at EX manuals for the engine in my 2006 model.

 

[caver]

Quick trip over today taking the cleaned up switch back and it appears to be the key switch. If something else changes I'll update it in this thread.

 

[jrclark]

Thanks to the OP for having the same problem as me and thanks to those who helped. I need to work on this problem over the weekend, at least I know where to start now.

 

[kirkkw]

Something else that痴 easy to investigate before digging in, My DK45 with only 60hrs on it would not start on occasion, clicking of starter but could not draw enough current to turn at all. I found that the relay for the starter, (the middle one mounted on the dk's fire wall) was slowly failing. It would contact and click, but had poor connection inside. This relay is a blue omron 12volt 30/20 amp 5 pin. very common. I swapped out the relay with a compatible one from amazon (5 for $8) and away I went. Amazon.com: Absolute USA RLS125-5 SPDT 30/40A 12 VCD Automotive Relay - 5 Pack: Car Electronics

Thanks to this thread, I solved a very similar problem with my DS4510. I purchased it in the spring and the seller said the ignition switch was acting up and that the battery was about 5 years old (original battery). About every fifth or so start it would click then start. I figured it was the old battery and replaced it yet the issue continued. Bought a new ignition switch and installed it. I then disassembled the "old" switch to identify the problem. It was shiny new and greasy inside. The ignition switch was not the problem nor was the battery. Based on this thread I purchased the 5 relays and wallah!! Problem solved, it was the relay the whole time.

Thanks again - wished I hadn't wasted the $110 on a new switch, but I might need it someday.