DK40- wont shift into low or high range?

[k0ua]

I think the 35 and 40 have the same lever.
My 35 always shifted high/low range pretty good.
If it starts shifting hard enough to bent the lever something is wrong IMO. And I would start lubing the linkage and shaft.

That was my thinking. Mine is slick as melted butter at this time, but if it started to getting dodgy, I would try to find out why and get out the spray can first thing.

 

[northcreek2624]

I think the 35 and 40 have the same lever.
My 35 always shifted high/low range pretty good.
If it starts shifting hard enough to bent the lever something is wrong IMO. And I would start lubing the linkage and shaft.

Yeah, something IS wrong....the "wimpy lever" . Of course you would always lube first, that's "DIY 101". Then if that does't work, what? split the tractor? You can't assume that because the tractor came that way it's the "end of story". Even International Harvester put out a tractor that almost ran them out of business and had to go back to the drawing board.
As I said in my earlier post, the creeper lever which is similar was reinforced at the factory. I mean you are just trying to mesh gears, it's not brain surgery.....Mike.

 

[DK35vince]

Like I said, my high/low range has always shifted easy, and I lube it occasionally to keep it that way.
I was using the tractor today and shifted between high/low range multiple times I wanted to see if it could be shifted using 1 finger.
I was able to shift high/low multiple times with one finger every time. Shifts that easy.

 

[kco]

Although this is an old thread, I'll post a solution I just found that fixed the "flakey shifting" problem on my 2011 DK35SE HST.

Over the last couple of months I had an increasingly difficult time shifting from Medium to High range. I tried lubricating everything as noted in this, and other threads. Today I could not shift to High at all. The shift lever would hit the front stop on the tractor frame before it had moved the gear far enough to engage in High.


Taking a closer look I noticed the spring pin that attaches the shift arm to the shaft that goes into the transmission was protruding to the rear. I used a hardwood board and hammer to push the pin back in, and that fixed it. I am fortunate to have found it before the pin completely worked its way out.

A pin was also protruding a bit toward the front of the assembly, and I thought it might be broken. However, it appears to be a spring pin inside another spring pin shown as parts 2 and 5 in this diagram from Michigan Iron:

Parts Finder Michigan Iron & Equipment Morrice, MI (855) 265-459

The inside pin was wobbling around inside the outer pin. It may also explain an intermittent I starting problem where the range selector showed being in Neutral but the starter would not engage. Perhaps it caused the range potentiometer in the control circuitry to send out a flakey Neutral-range signal (there are two values), thus preventing starting.

Anyhow, if range shifting is flakey another possibility might be the spring pins on the shift lever shaft.

ADDITION TO POST: In reading my post the forum's suggestions led me to this other post where K0UA had the same suggestion:

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kioti-owning-operating/319454-dk40-high-range-not-working-post3863176.html#post3863176

 

[k0ua]

Although this is an old thread, I'll post a solution I just found that fixed the "flakey shifting" problem on my 2011 DK35SE HST.

Over the last couple of months I had an increasingly difficult time shifting from Medium to High range. I tried lubricating everything as noted in this, and other threads. Today I could not shift to High at all. The shift lever would hit the front stop on the tractor frame before it had moved the gear far enough to engage in High.


Taking a closer look I noticed the spring pin that attaches the shift arm to the shaft that goes into the transmission was protruding to the rear. I used a hardwood board and hammer to push the pin back in, and that fixed it. I am fortunate to have found it before the pin completely worked its way out.

A pin was also protruding a bit toward the front of the assembly, and I thought it might be broken. However, it appears to be a spring pin inside another spring pin shown as parts 2 and 5 in this diagram from Michigan Iron:

Parts Finder Michigan Iron & Equipment Morrice, MI (855) 265-459

The inside pin was wobbling around inside the outer pin. It may also explain an intermittent I starting problem where the range selector showed being in Neutral but the starter would not engage. Perhaps it caused the range potentiometer in the control circuitry to send out a flakey Neutral-range signal (there are two values), thus preventing starting.

Anyhow, if range shifting is flakey another possibility might be the spring pins on the shift lever shaft.

ADDITION TO POST: In reading my post the forum's suggestions led me to this other post where K0UA had the same suggestion:

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kioti-owning-operating/319454-dk40-high-range-not-working-post3863176.html#post3863176

Wonder why they just didn't put a hard bolt and castle nut on it to begin with instead of using "spring pins" what we call roll pins. Probably cheaper I guess.

 

[Amvcane]

Kco, glad you got you problem resolved and shared your observations. If you are afraid the rollpins may work their way loose again you may want to thread a wire through the rollpins and twist around the shaft.
It won’t stop the pins from egging out the hole if they are that loose. It will keep them in place though.

 

[k0ua]

Kco, glad you got you problem resolved and shared your observations. If you are afraid the rollpins may work their way loose again you may want to thread a wire through the rollpins and twist around the shaft.
It won’t stop the pins from egging out the hole if they are that loose. It will keep them in place though.
View attachment 581583

That seems like a good idea.

 

[Coyote machine]

Although this is an old thread, I'll post a solution I just found that fixed the "flakey shifting" problem on my 2011 DK35SE HST.

Over the last couple of months I had an increasingly difficult time shifting from Medium to High range. I tried lubricating everything as noted in this, and other threads. Today I could not shift to High at all. The shift lever would hit the front stop on the tractor frame before it had moved the gear far enough to engage in High.


Taking a closer look I noticed the spring pin that attaches the shift arm to the shaft that goes into the transmission was protruding to the rear. I used a hardwood board and hammer to push the pin back in, and that fixed it. I am fortunate to have found it before the pin completely worked its way out.

A pin was also protruding a bit toward the front of the assembly, and I thought it might be broken. However, it appears to be a spring pin inside another spring pin shown as parts 2 and 5 in this diagram from Michigan Iron:

Parts Finder Michigan Iron & Equipment Morrice, MI (855) 265-459

The inside pin was wobbling around inside the outer pin. It may also explain an intermittent I starting problem where the range selector showed being in Neutral but the starter would not engage. Perhaps it caused the range potentiometer in the control circuitry to send out a flakey Neutral-range signal (there are two values), thus preventing starting.

Anyhow, if range shifting is flakey another possibility might be the spring pins on the shift lever shaft.

ADDITION TO POST: In reading my post the forum's suggestions led me to this other post where K0UA had the same suggestion:

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kioti-owning-operating/319454-dk40-high-range-not-working-post3863176.html#post3863176

KCO, I bolded and underlined the section of text above in your post, and have a question about it.
I too have had issues with shifting with my 2010 DK-40 HST. I notice when I go to start, the range selector will be in the neutral position in the shift slot, but the dash light will read that it is in say 'medium'. So I move the selector to medium in the slot. Then the engine will crank and start as it should. Once started the dash light will flicker between neutral and medium while operating the machine. I've done the 'reset' sequence a number of times as outlined in the workshop manual. That seemed to resolve the problem for a while. More recently, the problem seems to be more constant than not, so I just put the range selector in the medium spot to start, otherwise the starter will lockout as you described. Do you think this is the same situation you were detailing, where the roll pin(s) have allowed the shift mechanism on the trans to indicate a physical misrepresentation of the actual location of the transmission's gear selector? Curious how many hours on your machine?

Thanks for your input and feedback,
CM

 

[kco]

KCO, I bolded and underlined the section of text above in your post, and have a question about it.
I too have had issues with shifting with my 2010 DK-40 HST. I notice when I go to start, the range selector will be in the neutral position in the shift slot, but the dash light will read that it is in say 'medium'. So I move the selector to medium in the slot. Then the engine will crank and start as it should. Once started the dash light will flicker between neutral and medium while operating the machine. I've done the 'reset' sequence a number of times as outlined in the workshop manual. That seemed to resolve the problem for a while. More recently, the problem seems to be more constant than not, so I just put the range selector in the medium spot to start, otherwise the starter will lockout as you described. Do you think this is the same situation you were detailing, where the roll pin(s) have allowed the shift mechanism on the trans to indicate a physical misrepresentation of the actual location of the transmission's gear selector? Curious how many hours on your machine?

Thanks for your input and feedback,
CM

I don't know if the loose pins were causing my intermittent starting problems. However, they seemed to be occurring more frequently as it got harder to shift into High. I guess I'll know if it was related if the intermittent starting problem disappears.

Re: your question about the hours...my tractor is at 1,395 hrs.

 

[kco]

Kco, glad you got you problem resolved and shared your observations. If you are afraid the rollpins may work their way loose again you may want to thread a wire through the rollpins and twist around the shaft.
It won’t stop the pins from egging out the hole if they are that loose. It will keep them in place though.
View attachment 581583

That's an excellent suggestion. I added a wire this afternoon and will keep an closer eye on the roll pins. As K0UA suggests, using two roll pins is a questionable design. I've got my pins back in but they are not completely flush on each side of the collar. If I tap it flush one way the 2-pin assembly slides. So the smaller pin is not completely in the larger pin. I got it fairly close by squeezing the two with channel lock pliers but will align them better when I can get some help. It is an awkward place to work. I can tap the larger pin from the front side with a hammer but need to use a piece of rebar to tap the smaller pin from the rear side. I'll get my neighbour to help so one of us can hold a large hammer against the front side while the other taps the pin from the rear side.

 

[Coyote machine]

I don't know if the loose pins were causing my intermittent starting problems. However, they seemed to be occurring more frequently as it got harder to shift into High. I guess I'll know if it was related if the intermittent starting problem disappears.

Re: your question about the hours...my tractor is at 1,395 hrs.

Thanks for the reply. Here's what I'm thinking about your intermittent starting issues. Since the starts became more difficult as you found it harder to shift into H, I think that speaks to not being to get the trans in H gear might also mean the 'brain' is/was not able to 'see' neutral, therefore it would lock you out when you were neither in H or N?

You might have 'seen' the gear selector as positioned at N, when the lever at the trans was sending a signal of being in gear, thus locking your starter from cranking?

Can you closely monitor what position the gear selector stick shows when you go to start, AND what the light indicates as gear position on the dash? if they're consistently the same, the 'pins' adjustment(s) and wiring them in place may have solved your issue(s).

You do know there is a procedure in the workshop manual to sync the shift selector's 'pot' with the cruise control module, which controls the starter lockout? (At least that's the way I recall it being wired last I looked...).

I'm not at my tractor currently, but we are close in hours on our machines. I find often persistent problems seem to occur at similar hours on the same machines.
Please let us know what you find on the starting; if it improves or stays the same. I'm betting on it is improved, or better yet, solved.

 

[Coyote machine]

Is there any update as to the starting issues since you've had some time to note changes?

Thanks,

CM

 

[kco]

Is there any update as to the starting issues since you've had some time to note changes?

Thanks,

CM

I've put on 13 hours (now at 1,408) since fixing the roll pin and it seems to have fixed my flakey start problems. Although I had not had outright failures to start for quite awhile I noticed that as the shifting got more difficult(and finally failed to go into H) the starter was acting strangely. The starter would engage and the tractor would start with the first "hit" and disengage before I released the key. Perhaps the floppiness in the shift linkage was affecting the pot signal? I've started it many times since fixing the roll pin and the flakiness has not reappeared.

 

[coobie]

Gald you resolved your problem.Thanks for updating us.Merry christmas.

 

[Coyote machine]

I've put on 13 hours (now at 1,408) since fixing the roll pin and it seems to have fixed my flakey start problems. Although I had not had outright failures to start for quite awhile I noticed that as the shifting got more difficult(and finally failed to go into H) the starter was acting strangely. The starter would engage and the tractor would start with the first "hit" and disengage before I released the key. Perhaps the floppiness in the shift linkage was affecting the pot signal? I've started it many times since fixing the roll pin and the flakiness has not reappeared.

That's great news! Thanks for the update and status report. It helps all of us to know the outcome, especially on something one could tear their hair out trying to figure out the cause and effect on. I'm afraid I will have to look into whether my DK-40 is having the same issue with the linkage roll pins.
Merry Christmas.