DK45C won't start....

[LOGDOG5375]

Hi everyone.... Thanks so much for all the input. I got a little bit of a late start today, but I picked up a new heavy, one gauge ground connection wire at Tractor Supply, and a couple new terminals. Grabbed a couple wire brushes and a rotary wire brush to clean up the mount at the frame. I cleaned the frame down to bare metal with the rotary brush. I brushed the bolt that anchors the ground at the frame and soaked it in Tarn-X until it was nice and clean. The old ground wire was maybe 4 gauge, and maybe 14" long. It was stretched tight. No slack whatsoever. So the new one I bought is 31" and has room to flex and move. I fastened the connection at the battery, sprayed some lube on the connections, and climbed in the cab. I turned the key. Dash lights ON. GRIN!!! Turned the key all the way...... popped right off. The sweet sound of success!!!!!!! She's running like a top. I spent the rest of the afternoon, blowing out the radiator, condenser, air filter, cab air filters, and fueling up, airing up, lubricating this and that, and putting her back together. She's ready to go back to work bush hogging in the morning.

I can't thank you guys enough for your help and diagnosis. It really made a difference. :thumbsup:

I took some pictures on my phone too, from where I started, to taking things apart and cleaning and putting it back together. I'll have to forward them to my laptop, and then try to post them here on the forum for the next person who might have this issue.

 

[Coyote machine]

Excellent! Results by starting at the beginning and following through. Glad you're back up and running. Good job. Sounds like the new cable and clamps will serve you well for many years to come.
I'd also like to suggest that anyone reading this with similar issues consider after everything is clean and shiny metal using the battery post felt washers and also spraying battery post sealer - available at any auto parts store, on both posts to basically seal out atmospheric moisture, and to create as sealed an environment as possible, to reduce corrosion to an absolute minimum. Then check the battery surface, wash with baking soda solution and cold water, while wearing eye protection against splash back of any powdered acid, including the battery tray, periodically, at least twice a year, especially if there is any evidence of off gassing and the white powder like surface dust, (dried battery acid) on/around your battery.

Just a little due diligence goes a long way to preventing preventable issues with one's charging system.:thumbsup:

 

[ritcheyvs]

Thanks for the reply ritcheyvs.

Okay, so first. I have a brand new battery that I purchased and installed today. So we know the battery is good.

Second, I just went out to test the flashers. Yes, it's after 11 p.m. and dark, but at least the hot Southern sun isn't beating down on me. Plus it's a good time to test the flashers right? So I climb in the cab and move the flasher switch side to side. Nothing. I get out and tap the negative terminal where the lead enters the terminal and the flasher that I had left on, started flashing. Check! I go around to the cab and move the switch over to the other flasher, and it flashes too. Check! I turn the radio on, and it comes on too. Check!

So I know something is not right on that negative/ground side. That's getting replaced no matter what.

When you say "check the switch" .... you mean the key switch right? I've noticed in other threads that the switch has sometimes been the culprit. Can you explain to me how I would test that switch? I've never claimed to be a mechanic, but I'm fairly good at following directions.

Glad you are back in business. It always makes sense to test the battery voltage under load; it's rare but even new batteries can be bad. I miscommunicated on one item; when I said flashers, I meant the emergency flashers, not the turn signals. Those are the ones that don't run through the switch (the key switch).