DK45S Hard Start Fixed

[ritcheyvs]

This is a lesson learned that may help someone. My DK45 became hard (or impossible) to start last spring. Sometimes it would "catch" just aI released the key back to the run position. I eventually discovered that the contacts within the key switch were dirty such that it interrupted current to the glow plug relay while the switch was held in the crank position (no glow=no start). Being cheap, I carefully disassembled, cleaned, and lubed the switch. After that it starts like a champ every time.

This second-owner tractor was new in 2007 and had about 325 hours at the time. The dust cover for the key hole was also missing.

Scott

 

[gmsssi]

This is a lesson learned that may help someone. My DK45 became hard (or impossible) to start last spring. Sometimes it would "catch" just aI released the key back to the run position. I eventually discovered that the contacts within the key switch were dirty such that it interrupted current to the glow plug relay while the switch was held in the crank position (no glow=no start). Being cheap, I carefully disassembled, cleaned, and lubed the switch. After that it starts like a champ every time.

This second-owner tractor was new in 2007 and had about 325 hours at the time. The dust cover for the key hole was also missing.

Scott

Shot mine with Kroil, been working great since!

 

[MotorSeven]

Scott it's good to know the switch can be disassembled....most now are sealed/throw away parts. I'm having trouble with the plastic 7 pin on my truck and have cleaned it twice...now I am just going to replace it with a metal one.
It's amazing what a little bit of gunk or corrosion will do to a switch ain't it?

 

[tpulley]

Thanks for the tip. I will be on the lookout for this...

 

[robarosa]

Good to know. Thanks.

 

[ritcheyvs]

This is an update. Reviewing the bidding: the four-year -old start switch failed to make reliable contact to the glow circuit when the switch was turned to "crank". The tractor generally would not start but sometimes the engine still had enough momentum when the switch returned to "run" (when the glow plugs re-energized) that it started, A complete disassembly, cleaning and dielectric lube of the switch fixed the problem for the next four years.

The problem returned yesterday. This time I just shot electronics cleaner into the key hole (and worked the switch) until it started reliably. This was much faster and easier than a switch rebuild.

Being a belt and suspenders type I also ordered a new switch from MIE. I noticed three different part numbers on their parts site: two were just over $60 and one was just over $80 (plus $20 shipping). It's a newer part number so maybe it's a better design (I don't plan an unnecessary dissection just to satisfy my curiosity).

 

[8NAcres]

"Being a belt and suspenders type..." - reminds me of my dad - he says that all the time when I complain he has too much stuff and has two or three of everything.

Thanks for the update - I will keep this in mind for mine.

Dan