Do It Yourself wooden trusses

[SPIKER]

I would agree with what was said above, reason my truses were built on-site and not bought was the span adn the height, would not be shippable anyway. if you are going with a standard pitch of 4/12 then you can probalby get them made and shipped to site as cheaply as building them you're self and have them EXACT, mine are not exact, as when you FLIP some will bow a bit more, even building one on top of other. my roof has varrations in it, maybe 1" that can be seen, not a major thing, but enough to see. they are all OK, but I think it happened when the trusses were set, one side must have been a bit off on the template, that menat when some of the trusses were flipped some were rotater from the build site to the other half of the floor. and that meant they sorta ended up wiht lefts and rights. which is OK but then the twisting sent lefts adn rights opposite of each other causing the varrations in final roof pitch/height and can only bee seen at the gambrel 2.nd tier pitch. somethign that happens to ON-SITE built trusses.

Mark M

edit in:

as for costs, It was 20K even. for my 38x50x10 (first floor) with 10x50 coverend porch) has support beams down 50' center supporting 2x12 on 16 floor joists. 2nd floor 38x50x10 all open and all trusses on 16" ctrs. exterior is T1-11 with 30+yr shingles over 21/32 roof osb with tar paper underlayment. 2nd level floor is 3/4" TG OSB all amish build they supplied all materials, (some of best lumber I seen) all posts are 6x6 HEAVY (60cca?) treated all rim joists are 2x12x20 too. photos can be seen at http://www.bright.net/~ispike/home2

mark edit in

no concrete or back fill.

 

[phantom309]

Thanks for all of the replies.

Found one bit of bad news RE spike grid connectors. I was searching for a source for them and found this site. Reading a little about the spike grids and found the following: "Install with grid applicator or hydraulically, cannot be installed by tightening standard nut". And with a 1" (or greater) hole required, it looks like the spike grid are intended for timber construction, not small 2x's. Rats.

The split ring connectors are a still an option. The 2.5" split ring connector is intended for the purpose and size of material that I am using. They require you to use a "grooving tool" to cut the circular groove in the 2X, but that's not too bad. Hmm....

Hey Spiker, I think that I follow your posts RE your trusses. Is PL400 a glue? A couple detail pictures would be great if they weren't too much trouble. BTW, I did look and and was impressed with your web page.

Thanks again,

Mark

ps: Forgot to mention: No codes or inspections here. I still want to do a good job, but I don't have to worry about any official paperwork...

 

[Woodsman_Pete]

PL-400 is Contractor Grade construction adhesive. Like souped up Liquid Nails. I would still price out pre-made trusses. The cost of labor (free, but your TIME is still worth something... could be building the walls) and a laydown area need to be considered for building the trusses. I've built trusses with plywood gussets it can be done but having a nice flat work surface to keep things square and from getting twisted is always a problem. Plus, don't know how your setting them but a built up truss is much heavier than a pre-made. Back to the Time thing and may it's not an issue, but either you build the trusses first prior to anything else and they sit with the possiblity of bow and warp or the walls stand with out a roof until the trusses are built. Just food for thought

 

[8NTX]

As I remember, I bought pre-assembled engineered trusses for about 20% more than the cost of the materials alone. This was one area where buying ready-made makes real sense to me, since this is a crucial structural component of the barn.

 

[SPIKER]

hi againe:

here are some dirrect links to individual photos showing the trusses. IF you put the MOUSE over the photo it will give you more detail about it. (the photo that is.)


http://www.bright.net/~ispike/home2/11160003.JPG
they were built ON the 2nd floor deck so it was straight and free form debris and any problems, except the RAIN that started and didn't stop untill it went to snow for the next 2 months /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif shows the BACK/BOTTOM of the trusses also

http://www.bright.net/~ispike/home2/11170006.JPG shows a close up of the outter side of the truss corner between the two roof pitches on one side. they used 1/2" x 1.5" 18 ga staples with the glue, they put about 10 staples per side. you can see the interior roof 2x6x20' and the T joint where the top roof vent goes as well is just off to the left of the photo.

http://www.bright.net/~ispike/home2/11160002.JPG
this is the 2nd floor with the trusses all done setting on top, the first pile closest is the main set, the 2nd pile in back was picked up and walked around which rotated them 180 degrees which caused the 1" +/- lift when they used from one pile vs the other pile. flipping the truss OVER to plywood the other side was difficult and took 3 people. they laid out chaulk lines on the decking to get the angles and height needed to fit the 2x6's lenghts for a best fit, although that means more work if ever it gets finished due to 2nd floor ceiling height is over 10'... just keep the mouse over the photo a few seconds to see text I put in way back then...

other photos are of misc items I've made, getting ready to make a ROCK grabber/Pallet mover and SPRAY tank holder rig. actually spray tank is going to be ON a pallet, and ROCK will be SLINGED between the rails, starting tomarrow...

Mark M /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[Darren]

I don't know anything about PL-400. I've always used resorcinal for built-up trusses. Resorcinal is a structural glue that's absolutely water and insect proof. If you manage to rip a resourcinal glued joint apart, you'll find that the wood fibers have separated not the glue. Resorcinal is the same stuff used by some boat builders.

 

[phantom309]

Hey Dave-

Just curious - are those posts in the center of your building permanent or temporary? Your building looks like it could have clear span truss rafters and not require center posts.

What is the width of your building?

Mark