orangebluegreen
Gold Member
That “test” probably does little to prove anything in a pressurized system, and in fact may prove what the OEM’s tell you to begin with, don’t use additives. If additives were so great the oil company would already put it in.
I have an old Onan generator that ran at extremely high temps, so high it would cause the fuel in the motorhome compartment to vapor lock while running. I tried Mobil-1 10w-30 and it WORKED, the engine ran cooler. I never believed all the talk about it, but in certain instances it absolutely does work. I used to use ½ to ¾ quart per day on the generator, now I use that in a week at the same number of hours. It is proven on “ball bearing tests” to have less wear over a period of time due to higher strength, and withstands extreme heat better. Using synthetics to increase oil change intervals is not the reason I now use them, I use it to increase life expectancy in my new vehicle, and it’s absolutely necessary in my air cooled engines. I now use regular Castrol GTX 30 weight in my old vehicles that I either don’t put many miles on or have so much blow-by that I have to add oil anyways, in those cases it’s not worth the cost of synthetic. Check out the problems Toyota had a few years back with people trying to go 15k miles on their oil. The filters were not big enough to last that long and they had engine failures Toyota said was not design fault but from dirt build up due to not changing the filters. I have heard others say they change the filter at regular interval but leave the oil in.....this may or may not be a good idea. I’m talking small consumer stuff here, not big industrial or truck engines, whole other game there.
Experiences with heat on my Craftsman garden tractor Kohler 18HP
I’ve not had time to read most of what’s on TBN, a lot of ground to cover, so some of what I said is probably repeat.
I have an old Onan generator that ran at extremely high temps, so high it would cause the fuel in the motorhome compartment to vapor lock while running. I tried Mobil-1 10w-30 and it WORKED, the engine ran cooler. I never believed all the talk about it, but in certain instances it absolutely does work. I used to use ½ to ¾ quart per day on the generator, now I use that in a week at the same number of hours. It is proven on “ball bearing tests” to have less wear over a period of time due to higher strength, and withstands extreme heat better. Using synthetics to increase oil change intervals is not the reason I now use them, I use it to increase life expectancy in my new vehicle, and it’s absolutely necessary in my air cooled engines. I now use regular Castrol GTX 30 weight in my old vehicles that I either don’t put many miles on or have so much blow-by that I have to add oil anyways, in those cases it’s not worth the cost of synthetic. Check out the problems Toyota had a few years back with people trying to go 15k miles on their oil. The filters were not big enough to last that long and they had engine failures Toyota said was not design fault but from dirt build up due to not changing the filters. I have heard others say they change the filter at regular interval but leave the oil in.....this may or may not be a good idea. I’m talking small consumer stuff here, not big industrial or truck engines, whole other game there.
Experiences with heat on my Craftsman garden tractor Kohler 18HP
I’ve not had time to read most of what’s on TBN, a lot of ground to cover, so some of what I said is probably repeat.