Do you have any Oil/Fluid changing time saving efficiency tips?

[RustyA]

Formafunnel is a pretty cool invention and easier than tin foil. Form-A-Funnel Flexible Draining Tool - General Purpose Amazon.com: Form-A-Funnel Flexible Draining Tool - General Purpose: Automotive

 

[Robin Veerman]

What keeps the shop vac from sucking up the fluid?

The fluid is nowhere near the top of the fill tube.

 

[90cummins]

The hydraulic breather/fill port is usually far enough above the oil level so it’s not possible to pick up oil.
90cummins

 

[GeneV]

I use one of these to catch the oil and just haul it off to autozone to recycle. For some equipment where that doesn't fit, or if the drain container is already full, I use a regular oil pan, and just pour the oil from it into whatever jugs I have laying around. I put something like cardboard under the tractors to catch any oil that spills. When done, I set the funnel I use to pour in oil on the cardboard, and lay the oil pan on top of that so it's setting upside down on an angle, and just leave it there for a day. All the oil drains off them onto the cardboard, and then it's just a quick wipe with paper towel and that's that.

 

[DGZRT]

Lots of good ideas . I can offer up . Go to the Dollar store and Get Puppy pads . Plastic lined on one side and absorbent pad on the other . They un fold to about 24" x 24" . Cheap clean up is a breeze !

 

[sportscarclinic]

Fumoto valves are nice, but you can skip them and go directly to a better option. Buy a shop air powered oil pump to suck the oil up out of the pan through the dip stick tube directly into a holding vessel that you can transport and dump at the nearest NAPA. Mine was purchased at Harbor Freight. It was cheap and it works as well as the high dollar version I used to owned when I had a shop.

As far as the filter... sharpen the end of an old screwdriver and use it as a punch to puncture the filter and drain the oil BEFORE you remove it. Let it drain thoroughly while you refill the rig with fresh oil.

If you consult the manual online, it will tell you the volume of oil required with or without a filter change. Almost all gallon jugs have a window on the side with volume markings. If you take some care, you shouldn't need to add more oil after you refill.

 

[deereman75]

A few of my pieces of equipment have a cock installed in place of the drain plug for hydraulic, fuel tank (for water removal), ect. One of these days I will have to switch everything over. It saves so much trouble. What helps even more is having a hose Barb on the outlet so you can run it to a convenient location instead of trying to swap pans or pails halfway through draining the tank while laying under the machine

 

[GeneV]

Fumoto valves are nice, but you can skip them and go directly to a better option. Buy a shop air powered oil pump to suck the oil up out of the pan through the dip stick tube directly into a holding vessel that you can transport and dump at the nearest NAPA. Mine was purchased at Harbor Freight. It was cheap and it works as well as the high dollar version I used to owned when I had a shop.

As far as the filter... sharpen the end of an old screwdriver and use it as a punch to puncture the filter and drain the oil BEFORE you remove it. Let it drain thoroughly while you refill the rig with fresh oil.

If you consult the manual online, it will tell you the volume of oil required with or without a filter change. Almost all gallon jugs have a window on the side with volume markings. If you take some care, you shouldn't need to add more oil after you refill.

I do question about using those oil pumps though. If you got sediment at the bottom of your oil pan, is that pump gonna suck all that out? I'm not saying it won't, I'm just asking, will it?

Doing it the drain plug way, I know it's coming out, I see it.

 

[RalphVa]

I do question about using those oil pumps though. If you got sediment at the bottom of your oil pan, is that pump gonna suck all that out? I'm not saying it won't, I'm just asking, will it?

Doing it the drain plug way, I know it's coming out, I see it.

Most drain plugs project somewhat inside of the pan. So, there's a small amount of oil around the drain hole that does not leave. If a pump or vacuum oil extractor were placed right in the bottom of the pan, they'd get more oil out than the drain plug.

I checked all my engines. Sucked the oil out and then opened the drain plug. NOTHING came out on the tractor's engine.

 

[Sean2202]

I'm wondering who people are using for oil analysis & what to consider.

I use Schaeffer labs and Schaeffer oil in the fleet at the golf course. Engines are expensive and it is worth it to me to monitor the health of them. I would like to monitor hydro fluid next. Most machines I see extended drains on. Small air cooled engines that are not running high RPM most of the time have to be less than factory recommendations for oil change intervals.

After I get the sample back from the lab I write on the oil filter with a paint marker what the recommended change is. Also I use a label maker and put the label right on the hour meter. I keep a Excel log with all equipment maintenance and cost.

Blackstone labs is another good source for analyzing.

PIG mats are good but can be pricey. The form a funnel linked above are great. I have used cardboard in the past for small engines. Works but gets saturated quick. I always pre fill my filters before installing them.

Tiger grip gloves are my favorite if you can find them.

Drain plug gaskets and oil filter gaskets, Make sure the old ones come off and don't get stuck on there!!