Do you use a cutting area for Bucked logs?

[Gods Country]

I was going to go the sawbuck route, but I didn't want to bother building, and lifting the wood onto it (no grapple). I have a pile of logs about 20' long. I placed two 6' long logs about 5' apart near the center of the pile and placed a number of small diameter logs (around 6" but smaller than the 6' lengths) perpendicular to the 6' logs to fill the 5' gap. I roll a log onto the log platform and cut from either side until just the 6' center section remains.
The small logs in the middle allow me to cut the remaining length with minimal pinching and prevents cutting into the ground. The worse I have to do is maybe roll a 4' section once to cut from both sides. It's pretty quick and requires minimal messing around. I cut 1-2 logs up and then split and load up the wagon to stack.

I've found this to be the most efficient use of my time. Cut, split and stack small quantities at once. Otherwise it seems I move the same piles of wood 2 or 3 times.

 

[Redneck in training]

I always set the bar brake ON when walking with the saw especially in the limb mess. It takes only one slip or tripping to get hurt by falling on running chain or svinging the saw into your leg. I got in the habit after few close calls. It is easy. Push the guard forward to block the chain then pull it back just before cutting.

 

[kco]

I can't see the need for a stick and markers to gauge my cuts.

Agreed! Unless you are feeding several different size stoves, it doesn't take long to "know" where to make the cut.
Of course, you may be one of those perfectionists, who want a woodpile that looks like the ones in the ads- too nice to use, to burn

Guilty! But it is more a practical matter for me. I have two 8' x 8' x 8 to 10' high bins in my shed (photos attached) that I need to completely fill. I heat with a wood furnace that uses about 4 chords (= 1 bin) per year. As long as I fill the empty bin by fall I always burn wood that is at least one year old.

If I don't keep a consistent 16" length and size the wood pile is unstable.

I used to use the "saw bar" method for measuring and still do occasionally. But I gave it up for a few reasons:

1. it isn't as consistent (more correctly, I'm not consistent)
2. it adds some risk--I've had a couple of close calls where I knicked my pants or came close to my dog (who had just deposited a ball for me to throw) as I turned the saw parallel with the log. That's why I made the previous comment about concentrating, especially when finishing a cut.
3. the measuring stick marking gives me an excuse to rest and requires less effort and stress than constantly turning the saw.

These factors get more noticeable when you're 68+.

Another adjustment I made the last few years is I never take extra gas. I fill the saw, and when it's done, so am I. It keeps it enjoyable and helps me move better the next day.

I normally cut alone but sometimes cut with a neighbour who is 15 years younger, but his back is worse than mine. Then we take two full saws and quit when they're done. We rest and talk while we mark the next log and drink lots of water (beer comes later). And often sit on the logs and solve the world's problems. Woodcutting is one of the most enjoyable things one can do.

Another suggestion: the plastic bags in the second photo are full of birch bark which is great fire starter. If you're cutting birch, score the bark by running the saw the whole length. The bark will peel itself.

 

[DAY]

that is a dandy stack of firewood!
I have to ask: what is a government certified geezer doing with a set of CLIMBING IRONS? (I'm 70, and don't even much like my extension ladder any more. . .)

 

[kco]

that is a dandy stack of firewood!
I have to ask: what is a government certified geezer doing with a set of CLIMBING IRONS? (I'm 70, and don't even much like my extension ladder any more. . .)

:laughing: They are all that save me from wrecking fences, buildings and powerlines with my inconsistent (or consistently random) falling skills. They are from my 1960's lineman days, and I use them a lot. Mainly just go up 20 or 30' to attach a rope when there is no margin for error in directing the tree. I also occasionally use them to help my local wireless internet provider install radios. He went to great lengths to get internet up my narrow valley. My service runs through two neighbours' places whose internet is through landlines. But they let us put radios on their sites. Great neighbours!

 

[arrow]

Well Dave you have that beautiful tractor so lets take advantage of it. I'll tell you how I do it which is basically a miniturization of how I used to do it professionally. After the tree is dropped (this is in the woods at this time) I proceed to cut and separate the crown from the stem. Parts of the crown are suspended and these I'll cut with a downward stroke. Other parts may be tensioned so I'll find a space underneath to place the bar and cut upward. I do not mess with the crown much beyond that as there are too many things that can hurt you as the crown is lying against other trees.
Eventually I'll skid as much stem as the tractor will allow to a clearing or landing. I drop the stem and pile it up. Come the next season, I'll pluck the stem from the pile with the tractor and bring it over to the splitter. While it is on the fel, I'll cut it up into rounds. Of course the last piece is on the bucket splines so I'll drop that 6' long piece, make my top cuts halfway or more, turn the log and make my finish cuts. Seldom does my saw hit the ground as it never need to approach the ground. Now I'll go skid over the crowns to the landing as this relieves much of the previousely tensioned "widow makers". I'll cut these pieces from 4 to 6' long most of the time under cutting . I'll stack these up on the bucket splines and dump them in a neat pile. Then , I just cut them up using the rounds as rests for the other pieces cut so I do not have to go near the ground. Many guys use some type of saw horse here or cross buck and cut the smaller 3 and 4" thick pieces with that tool. What is essential in my mind here as tools beyond the chainsaw are wedges, cant hook, chaps and helmet with face screen.

 

[MossflowerWoods]

Well Dave you have that beautiful tractor so lets take advantage of it. I'll tell you how I do it which is basically a miniturization of how I used to do it professionally. After the tree is dropped (this is in the woods at this time) I proceed to cut and separate the crown from the stem. Parts of the crown are suspended and these I'll cut with a downward stroke. Other parts may be tensioned so I'll find a space underneath to place the bar and cut upward. I do not mess with the crown much beyond that as there are too many things that can hurt you as the crown is lying against other trees.
Eventually I'll skid as much stem as the tractor will allow to a clearing or landing. I drop the stem and pile it up. Come the next season, I'll pluck the stem from the pile with the tractor and bring it over to the splitter. While it is on the fel, I'll cut it up into rounds. Of course the last piece is on the bucket splines so I'll drop that 6' long piece, make my top cuts halfway or more, turn the log and make my finish cuts. Seldom does my saw hit the ground as it never need to approach the ground. Now I'll go skid over the crowns to the landing as this relieves much of the previousely tensioned "widow makers". I'll cut these pieces from 4 to 6' long most of the time under cutting . I'll stack these up on the bucket splines and dump them in a neat pile. Then , I just cut them up using the rounds as rests for the other pieces cut so I do not have to go near the ground. Many guys use some type of saw horse here or cross buck and cut the smaller 3 and 4" thick pieces with that tool. What is essential in my mind here as tools beyond the chainsaw are wedges, cant hook, chaps and helmet with face screen.

Arrow,

Makes perfect sense sir!

David

 

[tawilson]

A set of skidding tongs hanging off the bucket from a chain works good for picking up and bucking logs. I can pick a log up, move it, and pop the tongs off without getting off the tractor.

 

[DAY]

Here's a pretty slick gizmo to move logs.
Small tractor log skidder.mpg - YouTube

 

[peterc38]

I cut about 25-30 cords of firewood a year solo. I have a sawbuck that I made but I never use it. I also have a logrite peavey with timberjack stand but I don't use the stand anymore either. The fastest way for me by far is cut 'em on the ground. I typically cut about 3/4 through the length of a log then roll with peavey and cut the rest of the way through. I have the space to do it and a nice dry cutting area, so I don't have a problem with dirt on logs caused by mud, etc. I cut whatever I can scrounge and also get grapple loads delivered.