Does a 5 way ingition switch still exist? And single wire alternator question

[petebert]

Tractor is a 335 or 3600.

Does anyone still make the ignition with 5 positions to charge the thermostart? I bought one that was advertised to have all 5 positions but it doesn't turn left, only right. It has off, accessory, a 2nd accessory, thermostart in my case and it has a ignition position and according to my multimeter the thermostat line doesn't receive voltage in the starting position. Looking online they all at least look like the one I bought so I'm wondering if any are actually still 5 way. This one does have 5 posts on the back but one of the posts doesn't receive voltage in any key position. Should I even care or is preheating the thermostart enough?

I replaced the instrument cluster and found that the instrument cluster ground is getting 8 volts in the accessory ignition position. The cluster power source is getting the full 12+. I ran a separate ground to the cluster for the time being. A previous owner went to a single wire alternator but all the other other factor wiring appears to still be in place, I haven't had time to fully test everything but it appears that there's still connections being made at the voltage regulator. Shouldn't a single wire have an internal voltage regulator and do I want to bypass the original one? Could this be why I'm getting 8 volts on that one ground or is a total rewire in order?

 

[aircommuter]

I got one with a position for the thermostart from one of those after market places and it turns on a seprate terminal when you turn it part way toward the start position and keeps it hot while cranking. It does not have a different spring resistance between the two so I added a light so I could tell when it is heating.
Now the instrument cluster may have a little voltage regulator on the back.
I forgot to answer the alternator question, the regulator is built in if it is in fact a one wire unit, is it not giving you a charge?

 

[petebert]

I actually haven't checked for a charge yet, I was just wondering if it's supposed to be wired differently and could be causing any other issues like voltage on my ground.

The cluster does have a "regulator" on back but from what I've read these modern reproductions have dummy regulators. All the connections are just bridged. In the 70's it provided 10v to the gauges but the modern ones use 12v gauges.

 

[aircommuter]

where are you getting the 8 volt reading? sounds like between the cluster and a ground source. The wires that are on the old regulator should not go anywhere if the new alt. only has one wire. I got one of those clusters and it had a real regulator but there was a not that said not used on north American tractors. Can you explain where you are connecting the meter when you say you are getting a voltage on your ground. Since I can't see the testing I have to get as much information as I need to put together correct answers.

 

[petebert]

I pulled all the wires off to swap clusters. I forgot where the leads went to so I started testing them. With a bundle of wires there, no cluster installed, the black wire gets 8 volts with the key on.

 

[RickB]

OEM switch retails for about $35. I have two on the shelf and have sold a half dozen so far this year. It really isn't that difficult to find.

 

[petebert]

Which part number are you showing for yours? This is the one I bought Ford Tractor Ignition Switch 211 411 23 231 233 234 25 26 333 334 335 34 | eBay

and like aircommuters it only turns right, here's the sellers response.

"I have attached a schematic showing the functionality of the S.65662 switch. The OFF position is all the way to the left, and as you turn the key to the right you get to the other 4 positions in succession (aux-ignition-preheat-start). The last 2 spring-loaded positions do not have a real distinct "step" between them, but you should feel a slight increase in the spring-load as you move from position 3 (preheat) to position 4 (start with preheat).

This is different from the old style 5-position Ford switch, which is probably what you are replacing, where the OFF position is in the middle. On the old style you turn key left to get preheat, then start, while turning the key to the right you get ignition then start. The problem with the older design is that you have to remember to turn the key back to ignition after a cold start with preheat. That is why Ford later changed to the newer 5 position switch like the S.65662 switch, and this is the recommended replacement for the older design"

What's a good source for a wiring harness? Googling Ford 3600 wiring harness gets me harnesses that range from $25 to $225, looks like if I google C9NN14A103B I'm getting some good looking ones for around $80. This one looks pretty decent Wiring Harness, Front | Ford | C9NN14A13B although it's only the front half.

 

[RickB]

where are you getting the 8 volt reading? sounds like between the cluster and a ground source. The wires that are on the old regulator should not go anywhere if the new alt. only has one wire. I got one of those clusters and it had a real regulator but there was a not that said not used on north American tractors. Can you explain where you are connecting the meter when you say you are getting a voltage on your ground. Since I can't see the testing I have to get as much information as I need to put together correct answers.

Any original black wire in a Ford 3 cylinder wiring harness is a ground.

82849085 is the current part number for the 5 position OEM key switch.

 

[petebert]

I completely removed the old instrument cluster. With the key in the accessory position, one multimeter lead on bare metal and the other touching the black wire in the group of wires leading to the gauges I get 8 volts.

Edit: correction, i accidentally wrote that I removed the harness, should have read that I removed the instrument cluster. Typo is fixed now.

 

[aircommuter]

It sounds like that black wire has a poor ground and you are reading the load of some item that is looking for a ground source, which is your meter.