Doing some concrete projects at the house...

[nikdfish]

It's nice to have a proper place for everything...

How far away is power?

A 10-3 cable would give you luxury options...

The distance would not be too bad (150' ?), but the region I'd have to trench through is crossed by underground runs for AC, telephone, and well power+pipe, all with different paths. Avoiding those would mean going through the woods with all the fun associated with roots & rocks... I plan to use the building primarily for weather proof tractor & attachment storage & have a good generator (which will be stored out there too) if I really need AC out there for a bit.

Nick

 

[ultrarunner]

Just had to run conduit under the same situation and horizontal boring actually turned out to be my best option.

Sound like you've got it covered with the generator... 12V LED lighting might also work.

Costco had a 3 pack of anywhere LED lights that look like a light switch... bright enough to see a pathway... put one in an old barn and was laughed at... but it has been very practical and no one is laughing now.

 

[EddieWalker]

Very impressive. Thanks for posting so many pictures, it was fun looking at them and reading your comments.

 

[sld]

Nice building. I like the fact that it's insect proof and pretty much water proof. It should last a long time.

 

[nikdfish]

The building is pretty full now. In addition to the stuff here already, we brought the 3038e back from the acreage along with the implements that had been in use over there (except the rotary cutter - that stayed there under shelter). The items brought back were 6' landscape blade, 6' landscape rake & 5' box blade.

I made dollies for all non-wheeled 3pt attachments (except middle buster & hiller) so they could be stored inside the building & be man-movable. The exception was the 6" Jimna PTO wood chipper. That got "out-riggers" added to the 4x4 feet I had already added for better stability and PTO shaft alignment. The out-riggers had casters on the bottom that support the chipper by about 1/2" when on concrete.

This is what has been loaded in to date:

Started out with the easy stuff, the finish mower, backhoe dolly & carryall w/generator (carryall has casters that give 1/2" clearance while on concrete).

The chipper on its wheeled out-riggers.

Dollies were made for the PTO tiller & the post hole auger.

The box blade got a dollie & the backhoe is now on its as well.

I had to think a while about the landscape rake & blade. This is what I finally came up with. It is an "L" shape to take advantage of the ability to rotate the implement vs the lift arms. Making two the same would allow them to be nested without needing any more "depth" against a wall.

First the blade.

Then the rake.

Without crowding the 1025R on its side.

The 3038e is doing OK on its side, as well

The other thing I did was to add some 12v lighting. I picked up 4 27w 12v LED worklights (60 degree flood) and mouted two up high on the back wall & 2 on the front wall. The feed lines run down & are terminated in an anderson powerpole connector set between the two doors. I use these a lot on radios and accessories so most of the small SLA's around the place have a pigtail with these already. I grabbed a salvaged UPS 12v set and left it in the building in case I need some light ...

This pretty much sums up what has been going on with the building to date. The 22'x20' footprint now contains the following:

1025R w/FEL
3038e w/FEL
260 backhoe on dolly
carryall w/generator
59" finish mower
60" PTO tiller on dolly
6" Jinma PTO chipper on casters
60" box blade on dolly
post hole auger on dolly
6' landscape blade on dolly
6' landscape rake on dolly
set of strap-on bucket forks
small wagon for 1025R 3pt hitch & sprayer storage.

All above are man-movable within the building so they can be brought to a door for attachment as needed.


Nick

 

[ultrarunner]

Looking good...

Amazing how easy it is to fill!

 

[nikdfish]

Got the final implements in and took care of a few finishing touches.

The last two items still outside were a middle buster (aka potatoe plow) and a hiller. I came up with a dolly that would hold both.

I tacked up the red piece of sheet they left behind as a buffer for the wall. I have some long sheets left over from a roof application that I may use to do the same on other walls when the spirit moves me.

The 1025R still fits OK on its side of the building.

The casters on the plow dolly are the ones that used to be on the chipper. The chipper now has a new set that are a bit larger and that make changing directions easier.

I also added threshold seals for both doorways...

and sealed the control joints with some self-leveling filler over a foam backing rod.

It feels good to have everything in under a roof & behind doors. The dollies are working out well, as I found moving things around to accommodate getting to the control joints and moving the chipper to and from attachment to the 3038e when I changed out the casters.

Nick

 

[ultrarunner]

Great feeling to have a proper place for everything... the lights make it luxurious!

 

[TractorGuy]

Not sure about the rebar question. The guys doing the work did the original driveway (before the road was paved) & based on how it has held up for 20+ years we were comfortable with trusting their judgement. I do know there was a significant fiber additive content to the mix.

Nick

I questioned no rebar when they were about to pour my garage pad and patio so they called the concrete place and had them add fibercon. Every one of my slabs are cracked.

 

[ultrarunner]

Rebar varies too...

In the city the requirement for a driveway is a 12x12 grid of 5/8 rebar...

In the county across the street it is 24x24 of 3/8 rebar...

Both are nominal 6" slab...

The dirt doesn't vary from one side of the street to the other... but the code does.