I was talking to a Craigslist seller about a Spicer 5652 5spd transmission he had for sale at $200. Unfortunately he didn't have the shifter which was required for my use. I checked Ebay and I was able to score a Spicer 5652 for $100. For an additional $20 the seller said he'd drive the 2 hours and deliver it. Score! By this time the Craigslist guy said he was going to scrap the transmission so I offered him $25 for it. Sold! Two transmissions for $145. I'll use this transmission for the ranges after the NP435 4spd that comes with the Doodlebug sale. I'm not certain what gear ratio the 435 has, but I suspect it's an A model with 4.56, 2.28, 1.31, 1.0. The 5652 will have 7.08, 3.83, 2.36, 1.45, 1.0. That means 1-1 will give me 32.3:1 gearing! With a 1:1 final I'll be turning 3,500 at 55, but I think that'll be plenty fast. It's still a 34 Dodge with a solid rear axle after all.
Doodlebug time!
- Thread starter Cord
- Start date
- Views: 8413
Stimw
Elite Member
That 6 bolt plate on the side in the pic is for a power take off.
Some even have a plate on each side for extra PTO.
You could run a hydraulic pump off of that!
Some even have a plate on each side for extra PTO.
You could run a hydraulic pump off of that!
Well, got a bit of an update on the Cletrac. Sometimes don't you wish there was an "undo" button for life?
Here's the situation. For some reason this engine has a story to tell. I don't know what happened, but I have reason to believe that a bunch of force was applied to the front of the engine. The hood and air cleaner are missing. The green radiator doesn't match the color of the yellow machine. There was a bunch of damage to the governor assembly including the cast iron bracket which supports the governor linkage having been broken off. I also noticed some other damage. The rockers for the front two cylinders don't match the rear two. The front rocker stud was also replaced at some point. Also the valve cover stud was replaced, and was then extended by welding a bolt onto it. While I don't know what happened, it have reason to believe that a lot of force was applied to the front of the engine. Like maybe a tree fell across it. Lacking parts, they did the best they could to repair it. Well, thanks to the power of the internet, I now have better access to parts so I'm trying to fix some of the past sins. I already sourced a replacement front cover. I was working on replacing the welded valve cover stud when things went wrong.
I could see the front stud had a jam nut at the bottom of the stud and the back stud didn't. Thought that was strange but the nut loosened OK. However, the stud refused to thread out of the head. It just spun like the threads were stripped. I then tried to tighten the jam nut to pull the stud and felt the nut tighten and then yield. By now the stud was getting loose and could be pull out 3/8" before it hit something and stopped hard. Figured the threads were totally wasted so I bought a helicoil kit and was getting ready to drill the stud.
I decided to pull the exhaust manifold and look into the port. Low and behold there was a nut on the stud! Inside of the intake port! It would seem that when this external force was applied to the stud it stripped or somehow damaged the hole so they decided to fix it by installing two nuts on either side. Explains why the stud was too short. Well, in my attempts to remove the stud when I tried to tighten the jam nut I cracked the iron casting so the intake port was now open to the water jacket. The cast is super thin here, maybe a bit over 1/16" so it wouldn't take much to crack it. The hole is in such a spot that it can't be welded so the head is now junk.
I have a head already sourced and I'm waiting for a asking price. If the number is right I might just replace the whole engine, but we'll have to see where the numbers come in at. For now, I think I'm gonna pull the engine and try to fix the freeze damage somebody tried to weld once before. If the repair fails, I'll just go with a long block replacement.
Here's the situation. For some reason this engine has a story to tell. I don't know what happened, but I have reason to believe that a bunch of force was applied to the front of the engine. The hood and air cleaner are missing. The green radiator doesn't match the color of the yellow machine. There was a bunch of damage to the governor assembly including the cast iron bracket which supports the governor linkage having been broken off. I also noticed some other damage. The rockers for the front two cylinders don't match the rear two. The front rocker stud was also replaced at some point. Also the valve cover stud was replaced, and was then extended by welding a bolt onto it. While I don't know what happened, it have reason to believe that a lot of force was applied to the front of the engine. Like maybe a tree fell across it. Lacking parts, they did the best they could to repair it. Well, thanks to the power of the internet, I now have better access to parts so I'm trying to fix some of the past sins. I already sourced a replacement front cover. I was working on replacing the welded valve cover stud when things went wrong.
I could see the front stud had a jam nut at the bottom of the stud and the back stud didn't. Thought that was strange but the nut loosened OK. However, the stud refused to thread out of the head. It just spun like the threads were stripped. I then tried to tighten the jam nut to pull the stud and felt the nut tighten and then yield. By now the stud was getting loose and could be pull out 3/8" before it hit something and stopped hard. Figured the threads were totally wasted so I bought a helicoil kit and was getting ready to drill the stud.
I decided to pull the exhaust manifold and look into the port. Low and behold there was a nut on the stud! Inside of the intake port! It would seem that when this external force was applied to the stud it stripped or somehow damaged the hole so they decided to fix it by installing two nuts on either side. Explains why the stud was too short. Well, in my attempts to remove the stud when I tried to tighten the jam nut I cracked the iron casting so the intake port was now open to the water jacket. The cast is super thin here, maybe a bit over 1/16" so it wouldn't take much to crack it. The hole is in such a spot that it can't be welded so the head is now junk.
I have a head already sourced and I'm waiting for a asking price. If the number is right I might just replace the whole engine, but we'll have to see where the numbers come in at. For now, I think I'm gonna pull the engine and try to fix the freeze damage somebody tried to weld once before. If the repair fails, I'll just go with a long block replacement.
Attachments
KubotainNH
Veteran Member
Well that kind of sucks but it makes you wonder if it was losing coolant in that spot anyways.
Stimw
Elite Member
Without looking at I will just throw this out there- I have had success for years brazing cast parts and with a torch it makes it easy to fill areas.
My first success was a 1950 Harley kick peddle housing and it was still on the bike when I sold it 6 years later.
That housing was completely broken in a large "C" shape from a chain break then backlash.
My first success was a 1950 Harley kick peddle housing and it was still on the bike when I sold it 6 years later.
That housing was completely broken in a large "C" shape from a chain break then backlash.