Down Pressure Kit?

[Rebel]

Does anyone know if there is a 3 point Down Pressure Kit available for Kubota L-Series tractors?

 

[kennyd]

I doubt it.
Usually adding weight to the implement is the best solution. If you "push" the implement down it will take weight off the rear tires reducing traction-so it's kind of counter-productive to add downpressure.

 

[Tom_H]

Go to the Land Pride website:

Land Pride

Under "Products", select Post Hole Diggers.

Each size PHD has a page and on the left of each page is a menu. If you click on "Specifications" or on "Features" PDF documents will download and you will be able to see some information about their downpressure units. I am fairly sure that something there will fit your tractor. I couldn't find much more specific about their downpressure units; perhaps this is because they are considered parts or accessories. Their site will give a directory to dealers so that you can locate and find a dealer in your area. Good Luck.

 

[kennyd]

Go to the Land Pride website:

Land Pride

Under "Products", select Post Hole Diggers.

Each size PHD has a page and on the left of each page is a menu. If you click on "Specifications" or on "Features" PDF documents will download and you will be able to see some information about their downpressure units. I am fairly sure that something there will fit your tractor. I couldn't find much more specific about their downpressure units; perhaps this is because they are considered parts or accessories. Their site will give a directory to dealers so that you can locate and find a dealer in your area. Good Luck.

He did not specify it was for a PHD...but I guess it could be

 

[Rebel]

I doubt it.
Usually adding weight to the implement is the best solution. If you "push" the implement down it will take weight off the rear tires reducing traction-so it's kind of counter-productive to add downpressure.

I know what you mean, once upon a time I had a JD 210 with loader and Box scraper with down pressure and it did take a little getting used to. Under certain conditions it came in real handy.

For my Kubota I could use downpressure with the Leinbauch post hole auger I got. After seeing the way that Landpride (thanks for the link Tom_H) does there's I might consider modifing the Leinbauch in some simular mannor. I was hoping Kubota had a factory kit availible.

 

[Tom_H]

I don't know if Kubota itself has one, but I'm not familiar with one. Here's one way to ballast: Find a set of barbell weights. Get a sleeve bushing that is just right to accept the bar from the weights and is the same length as the diameter of your PHD boom. Weld the sleeve bushing to the top of the boom, using lots of extra metal to reinforce the weld. Cut the bar to a shorter length. When ready to ballast, slide bar into bushing, add weights equally to each side, slide the locking collars over each end, and tighten. You can weld bushings to several implements and use the same weights on whichever implement you want to use whenever you're ready to. You should use the heaviest individual weights available so as to keep the center of gravity as close as possible to the frame. Lots of small weights will mean a long bar with the weights spread farther out, a CG farther from the frame, and greater tortional forces, possibly with enough torque to rip the sleeve bushing out of its weld.

 

[PILOON]

IDEA to ponder;
How about running a steel cable from a post hole digger, possibly attached between the 3 point and the PH boom, run it over, er under a rear and front pully under the tractor and then attach to the bottom (or any handy (safe) FEL point!

Lifting the FEL would pull down the post hole digger. Should work!

 

[Rebel]

I'm having problems visualizing how this works.

Given:
Point "A" is where the top link normally attaches to the tractor and is strictly a pivot point.
Point "B" is where the drawbar(s) attach to PHD and can be raised buy hydraulics and is gravity down, also a pivot point.
Between points "D" & "E" is a hydraulic actuator.
Which leaves point "C". Is this a pivot point?

So how is hydraulily increasing the distance between "D" & "E" going to push the auger down? I'm not getting it

 

[Tom_H]

The force at point C is going to pull the tractor up by the 2 lifting arms of the 3ph. Gravity rests that weight of the tractor on the auger. Make a fist, lay your arm on a table palm down. Rotate your wrist so that the weight rolls over onto your knuckles. Your wrist is Point C, pulling your arm up off the ground.

Gearmore also has a downpressure kit. Go to:

Gearmore Products

Click on "Diggers and Augers". Open the PDF, and see the note on p. 2 re downpressure kits.

 

[Boeing]

I was thinking of adding weight to my BOX SCRAPER. I,too have the Kubota "L" and no down force. Wacha think of welding 1/2" steel plates on each end and a long plate across the back? OR....the barbell with end clamps across the upper hitch frame (but that would raise the CG). I was kinda worried that although light the scraper does jump over rocks....but if heavier am I going to break something?? Suggestions? :confused2:
Thanks

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I was thinking of adding weight to my BOX SCRAPER. I,too have the Kubota "L" and no down force. Wacha think of welding 1/2" steel plates on each end and a long plate across the back? OR....the barbell with end clamps across the upper hitch frame (but that would raise the CG). I was kinda worried that although light the scraper does jump over rocks....but if heavier am I going to break something?? Suggestions? :confused2:
Thanks

The problem with adding weight to a light weight box blade is that you now have the digging force of a heavy box blade, but the light weight box is just that, light weight. The metal and the construction of a light weight box blade used as if it were a heavy duty box blade will fail at sometime. There just is not enough material there to be able to hold up to heavy duty use and or abuse.

Just my :2cents:, your mileage may vary.

 

[Tom_H]

The problem with adding weight to a light weight box blade is that you now have the digging force of a heavy box blade, but the light weight box is just that, light weight. The metal and the construction of a light weight box blade used as if it were a heavy duty box blade will fail at sometime. There just is not enough material there to be able to hold up to heavy duty use and or abuse.

Just my :2cents:, your mileage may vary.

I agree. My Gannon box blade is only 42" wide, but it weighs around 500 lb. and all the heavy metal is welded together. The only thing that can move is the rippers. It is built like a tank. The old Agri-Fab box blade I had for my garden tractor was not much more than a toy.

 

[jimmer2880]

I have a Woods 48" BB and have added approx 160 lbs to it. It has served me well, although I am gentle when using it with that much weight. Adding 80 to it made it dig 50% better, 160 made it dig more than my tractor can pull.

 

[BeezFun]

IDEA to ponder;
How about running a steel cable from a post hole digger, possibly attached between the 3 point and the PH boom, run it over, er under a rear and front pully under the tractor and then attach to the bottom (or any handy (safe) FEL point!

Lifting the FEL would pull down the post hole digger. Should work!

I like this idea. The only complication is this requires using the FEL on every hole, or else there would need to be some way to automatically take up the slack in the cable as the hole is dug, otherwise the cable will go slack on the ground and possible end up in the auger. It would be nice to only have to fiddle with the FEL on those (hopefully) few holes that require additional downforce.

 

[PILOON]

Another possible idea;
Perhaps an electric winch, the 2500 lb ATV type with the added pulley to double the power all while cutting the speed by 1/2
Attach to the tow bar, I guess, and have it pull down.
Also available quite affordably, like in tha $50.+/- range.

 

[Boeing]

Thanks for the good advice. Here is a photo of my scraper. (sorry for the 2X8) I DID have TWO extra upper attachment bars added for extra strength. Would welding heavy plates to the sides and back ADD RISK for a potential breakup? WHERE could I add weight without risking failure? Thanks