I have a case 310G dozer which the track came off a couple times due to different soils, you need to loosen thetrack for hard dirt, tighten the track for soft sand mud etc. if you use a four foot level or straight piece of lumber to span between surfaces of track between rollers on top of track you should only have about 3/4 inch slack with no pressure towards the front or back of track. you need to do this between the front and middle roller and the middle roller and the drive sproket on top of the track both right and left tracks. If you loosen the adjusting nut at the back of the front roller, all the way back you may or may not need to use a come along to pull it back you can use a 24 inch pipe wrench with a cheter pipe to loosen it at first be sure to clean the threads and grease them, if you can put pressure lowering the blade so it lifts the front of the dozer up, then use two com-a-longs to pull the track first forward to take as much slack forward then use a come along between the blade if theer is a place to hook to or use a chain combination to pull it back in alignment. sounds hard, it isn't just takestime maybe a half hour per side, then after it is back on, check to see that it is on all rollers aligned top and boyttom, let back down on the blade and adjust the track to specifications. I found out by calling St. Joseph Equipment and askingh a mechanic how to do it. If the track jambs on you in a bad spot, you can put a piece of wood under the front of the track after raising the front end by putting pressure on the down blade, put the wood so it catches the track grouser and lst pressure down on it some times loosens a jamned gear not always and be sure not to use much pressure on any thing jamned as it will break and cost a lot to fix. I did not do this but, have replaced gears in the rear end and a small gear cost srveral hundred dollars. but thats another story. Good luck! I never tore down a dozer rear end and have done it twice due to no one telling me you have to shim all the slack out between gears with spacers so Ihad to do it twice and it is so simple to do but work is heavy so go slow and careful. I used a 3 ton jack and a cradel on it to pull the rear end out and a come along and put it back using a comealong and jack it in place to put bolts back in. Not hard at all mechanically wise. Just make sure the bull gear goes back in the right direction otherwise you may find you have three reverse speeds rather then forward and one forward speed. Ihad it out for a whole winter and it got turned around, fit like a charm backwards but when I spun it around before final assembly, noticed my error. won't happen again I can tell you that. I am no dummy neither, I have done mechanic work on cars both diesel and gas. My only hang up at this moment is when the dozer was last used and parked a month later it refused to start a 20 HP diesel. It has drained fuel back and I have tried every thing to restart it even hooked a fuel can with a rubber hose to the intake filters which werre just changed and tried bleeding the injectors nothing, I am thinking the fuel pump went out as there are vanes at the inlet side which there is a ceramic bushing which may have went out and then it won't push pressure into the main compressor of the fuel pump to the injectors a $300 to $500 fix to rebuild. any small leak in a fuel line even so small as to not show up can cause a diesel not to start.
