DRAFT CONTROL How does it work?

[MtnViewRanch]

I was typing while Brian was typing. I consider him a master with his BB. If he says draft control improves BB function, I believe it

Thanks Richard, while I am fairly good with my box blade, I consider myself VERY GOOD with the rear blade. Every implement excels at what it was originally designed for, just as do the different features on our tractors.

I understand that many draft control systems work in just a slightly different way. Richard, you do not use your position control at all when using the draft setting?

I ask because I use both. After setting the desired sensitivity on the 3pt,(typically the most sensitive for me when finish grading) I use the position control to get the desired depth and set that lever. Then set the draft lever so that it just ever so slightly wants to start to raise the implement. (this also affects the sensitivity setting on my tractor) Set the draft lever at that point.

From that point on the draft is set and not touched until it is no longer needed. I use the position control to raise and lower the implement back to it's desired setting at the end of each run. In fact the manual specifically says to not use the draft function to raise the implement and to not have the implement raised for an extended period of time without disengaging the draft control lever, which is easy enough to do, just push the draft lever all the way forward in the down position. ( Draft stop is on the upside of the lever)

Anyway, just wondering, sounds like completely different draft systems, which leads back to my number one recommendation for everyone, READ THE OWNERS MANUAL.

 

[Rustyiron]

Brian, is that with your big "plane" or just a rear blade?

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Brian & Richard, for this post d/c = draft control
For plowing - say your in some nice topsoil and run into a section of hard clay, shale, what ever. The d/c raises up the hitch until the "resistance" (in the d/c) is the same as your setting in the nice topsoil. The plowing depth does change. What influences the d/c is the pressure on the top link at the tractor and that is a result of loading and the depth (of cut) is the "fix" right?

And Brian, I could see "roughing in" a new grade using d/c, but for finish grade?
I am not questioning you guy's at all, actually the opposite, but the above has been my thinking for a long time, it makes (mechanical) sence to me. But then, I was never really taught the proper use. Edgumcate me Thnx.

When I say finish grade, I'm making at most a 1" cut. You want everything to be the same height, no or at least very small variations. Well you are not moving a ton of material, the tractor does this quite easily. Actually probably not even needed in a lot of circumstances, but then pops up a difficult area, the blade lifts about 1/8" (decreasing the cutting load by 12 1/2%) and you continue on your way never even knowing that there was a difficult area being dealt with.

Now when making 2-3" cuts, then the sensitivity needs to go way down so that it takes a lot more load to initiate the hitch to raise , but again, the implement typically does not get raised a lot other than if an unmovable object is encountered.

As an example, if the tractor has the capability to pull 5000lbs and it is doing just that with a 3" cut and the ground gets tough, the implement raises 1/2", that just lowers the draft put on the tractor by over 800lbs and the tractor continues on without even slowing down.

In your example of topsoil and clay, assuming that you know that the clay is there, you either do that area separately or set the depth of the plow shallower so that the tractor can handle the load. The tractor can only handle so much, removing the draft sensing is not going to increase the tractors capabilities assuming that you have the draft control properly set. If you needed that area to be plowed to a specific depth, and that depth is more than what the tractor is capable of doing in a single pass, then it has to be done multiple times , doesn't matter if you are using draft control or not, the tractor can only do so much at any one certain time.

I have gone over this time and time again with some old timers. Draft control is only for plowing. All I can say is that I use it when grading and it sure makes things a lot better and easier for me, and that is a simple fact. :thumbsup:

 

[Industrial Toys]

Maybe I don't understand. But what makes the arms come down again? Presumeably, pushing on the top link makes the arms go up only.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Brian, is that with your big "plane" or just a rear blade?

Both, although typically I only use it with the LPGS on our roads if the ground is on the very damp side. Now out in an open field with damp ground it is great. Because of the damp ground I can collect and carry about 3 yards of dirt and then deposit it in the low areas. The draft control allows for that collection and then keeps the load light enough that I can easily continue moving along to the desired drop location. I have evened out several acres in this manor.

I prefer to use the dozer for this type of work, but if the area is very large, the dozer is very slow in reverse. Sort of depends on where the dirt is that is getting moved and where it is that it is getting moved to.

As far as with the rear blade, I would say that I use the draft control about half the time with it.

 

[bcp]

Maybe I don't understand. But what makes the arms come down again? Presumeably, pushing on the top link makes the arms go up only.

Gravity does it, working on the implement weight, and sometimes the implement "wants" to go down (a plow, for example, tries to go down as it is pulled forward, due to the shape ).

Bruce

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Maybe I don't understand. But what makes the arms come down again? Presumeably, pushing on the top link makes the arms go up only.

Exactly, and when that pressure is relieved, the arms go back down to the preset level. It's an internal valving mechanism that you have pre set using the control levers on the right of the seat.

 

[k0ua]

Thanks Richard, while I am fairly good with my box blade, I consider myself VERY GOOD with the rear blade. Every implement excels at what it was originally designed for, just as do the different features on our tractors.

I understand that many draft control systems work in just a slightly different way. Richard, you do not use your position control at all when using the draft setting?

I ask because I use both. After setting the desired sensitivity on the 3pt,(typically the most sensitive for me when finish grading) I use the position control to get the desired depth and set that lever. Then set the draft lever so that it just ever so slightly wants to start to raise the implement. (this also affects the sensitivity setting on my tractor) Set the draft lever at that point.

From that point on the draft is set and not touched until it is no longer needed. I use the position control to raise and lower the implement back to it's desired setting at the end of each run. In fact the manual specifically says to not use the draft function to raise the implement and to not have the implement raised for an extended period of time without disengaging the draft control lever, which is easy enough to do, just push the draft lever all the way forward in the down position. ( Draft stop is on the upside of the lever)

Anyway, just wondering, sounds like completely different draft systems, which leads back to my number one recommendation for everyone, READ THE OWNERS MANUAL.

This ^^ is how my manual describes using the function.

To CM. To answer your questions about the holes on the DK40se Top hole no draft action, fixed, doesn't move. middle hole, not as sensitive as the bottom hole, but heavy draft load would activate the system. Lower hole most sensitive. Keep in mind this is JUST how our Kioti's are built, not ALL tractors. The stupid owners manual is full of extremely stupid Korean to English translation and doesn't tell you anything about which hole to use that Americans can understand. I hope this helps.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

For me, it really really helped me to understand with the manual in my hand and the tractor in front of me.

Did first step, then the second and so on. Once you see how things work, it's much easier to understand and then put to use.

Like I said before, figure out how to use it and then with some experimenting with where to have those settings and you can do some wonderful work without much work. Anyone that has draft control and knows how to use it has no need for gauge wheels on their implements.

Something about working smarter, not harder. If the capabilities are there, why not make use of them.

Of course all this goes out the window when using a tractor without draft control.

 

[bcp]

Of course all this goes out the window when using a tractor without draft control.

It all went out the window with my BX. No draft control, no position control, no individual brakes, no tough underbody, no weight, etc., but it meets my needs now.

Bruce