Drain Tiling Field?

[MNBobcat]

Hi All,

I have a field with a low area that runs the width of the field. Its currently dry but in rainy years it will have standing water in the low area. I want to plant grape vines which don't like wet feet.

I have absolutely no knowledge of or experience with drain tile. I don't know how effective it is. Does anyone have experience with drain tile? What can I expect if I have it tiled? Any info you can share would be most appreciated!

Thanks.

 

[jaotguy]

the tiles must have an outlet below the level of the field you want to drain , or all you'll have is tiles inside the field and the same amount of water as before ( and a lighter wallet )

without your location , there's no way to figure out frost depth ... if the land can be drained... type of soil ( clay, sand , rocky) ....depth of soil

 

[MNBobcat]

Our frost goes to about 40 inches. We're in pure sand except for the low area which is more of a peat. There is a pond off the end of the area I want to drain and we can drain it into the pond.

I'm not looking for how-to advice...I would likely hire a tile contractor that would know what they are doing. What I'm wondering is if we'll end up with a dry area where would could grow something.

 

[dave1949]

You should end up with a dry (er) area. Where I grew up in NW Ohio was in what used to be the Great Black Swamp. It's all field tiled to drainage ditches along the roads. Heavy clay, probably 36" frost depth typically, flat land.

You wouldn't know the entire area used to be an impassable swamp. It is very productive cropland now.

 

[MNBobcat]

You should end up with a dry (er) area. Where I grew up in NW Ohio was in what used to be the Great Black Swamp. It's all field tiled to drainage ditches along the roads. Heavy clay, probably 36" frost depth typically, flat land.

You wouldn't know the entire area used to be an impassable swamp. It is very productive cropland now.

Dave,

That sounds promising. Ideally I'd love to tile the low area and then haul in a bunch of fill but given how much fill I would need and the cost its unlikely that would happen. But if I can find someone in Minnesota who installs tile I think I'll have them come out and give me an estimate. Mainly I want to make sure I'm not throwing my money away and I'll end up with it being dry.

It may be we can push some dirt from other areas into that low section, too.

 

[jaotguy]

it may still flood in the spring , but dry up quicker if you put in tile drainage .....

how much quicker will depend on how much lower the pond is ....

later ,pushing material from other areas to raise the low spots will always help the top layer ... but you will still have standing water below that

you will still be able to bury a tractor if the sub surface water hasn't drained away....

best to have an expert come in and give you the facts / quote ....

 

[Steppenwolfe]

Talk to your County Agricultural Or Soils Conservation Agent. That's where you will get your best help.

 

[dave1949]

Dave,

That sounds promising. Ideally I'd love to tile the low area and then haul in a bunch of fill but given how much fill I would need and the cost its unlikely that would happen. But if I can find someone in Minnesota who installs tile I think I'll have them come out and give me an estimate. Mainly I want to make sure I'm not throwing my money away and I'll end up with it being dry.

It may be we can push some dirt from other areas into that low section, too.

Tile works, but how well it works in your area and soil conditions you would have ask like the other posters said. I would ask the extension agent or people in your area to gather what information you can for starters.

 

[fishheadbob]

If your frost goes to 40 inches it isn't mandatory to go that deep. If the ground freezes no water is going anywhere whether your tile is 60 inches down or 36 down because when the ground is frozen so is the water. Our frost goes almost as deep as yours; I have a quarter mile of tile in fields that works well even though definitely not consistently below the frost line. IMHO the most important factors to remember is that water runs downhill, and that drainage needs an outlet.Also as mentioned above check with your county SWCS and get their input. They are experts who are not selling anything.

 

[2funkids]

Here in Michigan it is tiled 3-4 feet deep with lasers for proper drainage. Oddly enough it's not back filled with gravel or sand, just the resident soil. Cost is approx $800 per acre.