OK - I am not usually this stupid, but have obtained a Kubota 24 hp tractor w/ a loader and think I need to change the hydraulic fluid as approximately 16 oz of heavier weight oil was added to the system. I am unable to determine how to drain the fluid, which I assume is the best idea under the circumstances. If someone could please enlighten me as to the best method or if this is truly necessary I would be forever grateful. Thanks
Draining Hydraulic fluid
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TomG
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It depends on what the heavier weight oil was. Many types of hydraulic oil mix OK. If was a compatible hydraulic oil, 16oz isn't going to change the overall consistency in the reservoir much.
Still, it isn't a bad idea to change the oil and filter on a used tractor unless the tractor's history is well known. I'd guess that the hours on the oil had been pushed on my used tractor, and I also got a piece of rubber boot in the oil when I changed mine.
Drain plugs usually are pretty obvious, but there may be more than one. If it's a HST, the screens should be cleaned, and they may not be obvious. You probably should get at least an owner's manual before launching into this stuff. You'll also need to know details about greasing, various preventative maintenance routines and periodic adjustments.
The main thing about changing hydraulic oil is to have a drain pan large enough to contain all the oil or a plan to swap drain pans. The other half of changing oil is filling it back up. Hydraulic oil is commonly sold in 5-gallon pails (some dealers also carry 2.5-gallon ones). It's really not fun to try to balance a 5-gallon pail on the tractor, support it and try to pour oil through a funnel. I have a pump that is built into a lid that replaced the top on a standard 5-gallon pail.
Still, it isn't a bad idea to change the oil and filter on a used tractor unless the tractor's history is well known. I'd guess that the hours on the oil had been pushed on my used tractor, and I also got a piece of rubber boot in the oil when I changed mine.
Drain plugs usually are pretty obvious, but there may be more than one. If it's a HST, the screens should be cleaned, and they may not be obvious. You probably should get at least an owner's manual before launching into this stuff. You'll also need to know details about greasing, various preventative maintenance routines and periodic adjustments.
The main thing about changing hydraulic oil is to have a drain pan large enough to contain all the oil or a plan to swap drain pans. The other half of changing oil is filling it back up. Hydraulic oil is commonly sold in 5-gallon pails (some dealers also carry 2.5-gallon ones). It's really not fun to try to balance a 5-gallon pail on the tractor, support it and try to pour oil through a funnel. I have a pump that is built into a lid that replaced the top on a standard 5-gallon pail.
Bird
Rest in Peace
You really need the owners manual for that model to change the hydraulic oil & filter. Maybe someone with a manual for it will respond. On my B2710, there are 3 drain plugs and two strainers in addition to the spin on filter, and you need to drain all of them when you change the fluid.
Bird
Bird
Thank you for the reply. 10-4 on the manual. I believe the fluid was changed regularly, have exmined it and it appears to be clean, not burned etc. The housing around the filter is tight as a tick and I have been unable to get the thing off using the 'nut' at the bottom. I can see light impressions where the last guy had to put a pipe whench or channel-locks on there. I found a likely drain-plug culprit but when removed nothing came out despite the fact that the level of fluid seems to be correct. Aaaaahh another day of mystery solving lies ahead.
Does the fluid circulate or is it only drawn on from the resevoir to create pressure in the system? Does fluid need to be replaced as it is being drained or can it be drained and then replaced? I have a small pump that attaches to an electric drill which I would be willing to sacrifice and may work well. Thanks again for the info.
Bruce
Does the fluid circulate or is it only drawn on from the resevoir to create pressure in the system? Does fluid need to be replaced as it is being drained or can it be drained and then replaced? I have a small pump that attaches to an electric drill which I would be willing to sacrifice and may work well. Thanks again for the info.
Bruce
Bird
Rest in Peace
Bruce, just like changing the engine oil & filter; drain everything, put all the plugs back, put the new filter on, then fill'er up. But when the engine's running, the pump is circulating the oil all the time.
Bird
Bird
TomG
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I seem to recall a discussion here that dealt with removing an overly tight filter. It might be good to look in the archives. As I recall it was something of a saga. there is a tendency to over-tighten filters, which crushes the filter and causes it to leak. and, there's a tendency to solve the leak by tightening it even more. They can be very difficult to remove if they were over-tightened, and also if the new gasket wasn't wipped with oil before putting it on.
I got the filter off WITHOUT distorting or crushing it. 6 sided not 12 sided box wrenches are key. I emptied it and found no trash and relatively clean fluid. I assume you can judge this stuff the same as with AT fluid in a car (like my '66 Bonneville with a 400 Turbo hydramatic, which holds not quite as much fluid).
Triumph No. 2 came in the form of going to town and getting 5 gal of best fluid I could find then finding the plug obviously located at the bottom of the transmission (how did I miss it before?). I drained 5 gals of fluid carefully into containers to keep track of how much I had taken out. The tractor had hardly been run since the erroneous oil was placed in the resevoir, and it only being 16 oz I figured that changing 5 gals was decent under the circumstances especially since that was all I had. After making quite a rig with a flexible funnel such that it would hold itself under the sheetmetal lip at the back of the tractor I refilled.
After scraping 1/2 mile of driveway the requisite 50 times - or however many it is- and some other piddling around, I developed a high pitched squeak up around the front differential or brakes at low speeds (is there anything else!?), plenty of oil in there. A project for tomorrow when I can get the wife to drive it. That'll fix it! Otherwise, this thing seems to start right up and run fine.
Have a Super Sunday
Triumph No. 2 came in the form of going to town and getting 5 gal of best fluid I could find then finding the plug obviously located at the bottom of the transmission (how did I miss it before?). I drained 5 gals of fluid carefully into containers to keep track of how much I had taken out. The tractor had hardly been run since the erroneous oil was placed in the resevoir, and it only being 16 oz I figured that changing 5 gals was decent under the circumstances especially since that was all I had. After making quite a rig with a flexible funnel such that it would hold itself under the sheetmetal lip at the back of the tractor I refilled.
After scraping 1/2 mile of driveway the requisite 50 times - or however many it is- and some other piddling around, I developed a high pitched squeak up around the front differential or brakes at low speeds (is there anything else!?), plenty of oil in there. A project for tomorrow when I can get the wife to drive it. That'll fix it! Otherwise, this thing seems to start right up and run fine.
Have a Super Sunday
Bird
Rest in Peace
Bruce, just what model Kubota do you have anyway? I think you said 24hp. My B2710 (27hp) doesn't hold 5 gallons of hydraulic oil, so I didn't think a 24hp would either. You arouse my curiosity.
And you say you <font color=blue>developed a high pitched squeak up around the front differential or brakes </font color=blue>. You do know there are no brakes on the front wheels, don't you? Unless you've got something I've never seen or heard of before.
Bird
And you say you <font color=blue>developed a high pitched squeak up around the front differential or brakes </font color=blue>. You do know there are no brakes on the front wheels, don't you? Unless you've got something I've never seen or heard of before.
Bird
TomG
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Fun yes? But I wouldn't forget about the squeak. I'd notice if it does it both in and out of 4wd and when going straight or turning and at all speeds. I'd describe a failing bearing as a squeal, rather than a squeak, and one that occurs at very regular intervals and increases with ground speed. It's probably something else, but I wouldn't forget about it. The power steering and hydraulic pressure relief valves make sort of a squeal that seems to come from the front of the tractor. Could be the power steering if it happens only in turns. Could be an out of adjustment 3ph that's causing the relief valve to open. Try pushing the 3ph lever down when you hear it. To hear the relief valve, just curl the loader bucket all the way back until it stops and then listen for the relief valve sound. It’s a good sound to recognize. A tractor shouldn't be operated for long with the relief valve open because it heats up the hydraulic oil.
I check hydraulic oil levels without screwing the dip stick back in. the tractor should be parked on level ground. If I’m wrong, then the levels are slightly high. A front axle and final gear reduction units don’t contain a lot of oil, and I’d rather be high than low.
I check hydraulic oil levels without screwing the dip stick back in. the tractor should be parked on level ground. If I’m wrong, then the levels are slightly high. A front axle and final gear reduction units don’t contain a lot of oil, and I’d rather be high than low.