Drawbars: Frame or 3pt?

roger_scotty · May 5, 2002

OK, I've been getting a lot of private mail on this question, so in the interest of fair play I'd better invite some more comments.
My own opinion is that the 3pt drawbar ought to be consigned to the museum right along with the other agricultural "widowmakers".
Yes, I've used them....in fact, I grew up with them. No, I never got hurt, and Yes, I always wondered why all the operator's manuals warned against them. If someone had warned me about them I would have thought they were nuts.
Then one day I sat down and took a long look at the physics of the situation.......
That went a long way to changing my mind. For more information, please read:
http://aepo-xdv-www.epo.cdc.gov/wonder/PrevGuid/m0040898/m0040898.asp
(thank Wayne For that)
Well, that's my opinion.... doesn't mean its right, though. Let me know your thoughts...

beenthere · May 5, 2002

I don't use one (3pt) anymore, but I think it all depends on what they are used for. One could pick dangerous and/or unsafe conditions for uses of either drawbar configuration. To make a blanket decision to categorize one (or the other) as 'unsafe' doesn't make any sense to me. The drawbar is safe, its the user we should worry about ( I think ). If I had one (3pt), I would find an occasional use for it, I am sure. And I would consider it to be used safely.

reb · May 6, 2002

I didn't check the site you mentioned. I read something else on the web a few months ago on the subject and it convinced me that I don't want to pull anything from a point above the drawbar. If the 3pt drawbar is kept low enough, it should be safe. The problem would be in ensuring it is low enough all the time. I'm with you, Roger.

reb

Anonymous Poster · May 6, 2002

Given that I view all government with suspicion, this publication just tells me the gooburmunt is back to writing instructions to protect stupid people.
I've been towing equipment with tractors and trucks for over 40 years, and the first rule has always been Be [censored] sure you know what you are doing before you do it.
While it is a bit easier to stand a tractor on it's rear tires pulling high with a 3 point drawbar, you can [censored] sure stand one on the rear tires with a below center draw bar too.
Way too may people are under the impression if you can move it, you can pull it, and that gets people hurt. How many times do you see some dipstick pulling a big boat on a trailer with a little S10 pickup?
One of the biggest problems with 3 point drawbars is stopping the load, not wheelstanding. 3 points don't have down hold, and if you are pulling a heavy trailer, and stop suddenly, or at least try to, the 3 point comes up real quick, and can easily lift the back of a small tractor. Since most Yanmars, or any other tractors, don't have front brakes, you got a BIG problem with no hope of correcting.
Now, having said all that, my 240D has one large 3 point drawbar, made from 4" pipe, with chain boxes between the lift arms, and a pintle hook along with 2 balls. The tractor will easily move a 12,000 pound trailer, and I do so regularly. My 240D is also set up with an electric brake controller, and lighting harness for trailers, which makes checking trailer lights real easy. When I'm stopping a 12,000 pound trailer, I don't use the tractor brakes, I use the electrics on the trailer.
I've run the 240D for over 20 years, and have yet to pop a wheelie pulling or stopping a heavy trailer. I'll also tell you backing up to a trailer with the tractor, and having the ability to lift the toung without having to get off the tractor, is one heck of a time saver.
Safety isn't in the machine, it's in the operator.

Soundguy · May 6, 2002

I agree that pulling from any point above the axle is asking for trouble.

Tractors are one of those inherent risk situations.... that fact remains, that for many tractors, the 3pt drawbar is the only drawbar available for pulling. For instance.. my 1700 has no swinging drawbar.. so I have to pull from the 3pt drawbar. My NH 1920 however does have the swinging db, and I use it exclusively.

Soundguy

rockyridgefarm · May 6, 2002

<font color=blue>gooburmunt</font color=blue>

Touche!

oldgrizzlybear · May 6, 2002

Ok, I read the article. All were a result of hitching at or above axle level. On my 1500D, I use a 3pt hitch. I have solid metal braces running from the top link hitch on the tractor down to the arm ends using the pins (you can buy these at TSC). For the 1500D, I had to shorten the braces, but left them long enough to keep the hitch below axle level. I am convince this is safer then using draw bar on MY 1500D. Its draw bar is very short and I can not turn very tight if something is hitch to it. When using a chain, etc, it is very easy for the agr tires to grap the chain (I have had a trailer tongue do the same thing) and wrap it around the axle. This can bring whatever your towing up into the seat behind you and sometimes this can happen fast. My 3pt hitch extends behind the wheels and I have to turn greater than 90 degrees for what ever is being towed to hit the tires.

So if you use a 3pt hitch, keep it below axle level using rigid braces. My 2 cents!

Larry

Knight9 · May 6, 2002

I have heard these stories before as well and they all make sense to me. Thus, I just built, though I have not used it yet, a hitch like the attached photo. If you look at the chains you will notice that they will prevent the load from riding up on a quick stop. You are still using the drawbar, in this case with a receiver bolted to it. Seems like a good safe compromise to me.

Kevin

Ledgemere Farm · May 6, 2002

I use my 3pt drawbar for hauling logs. I back up to the butt end of a log and chain it to the drawbar. I then lift the 3pt and that log will go anyplace I want it.

roger_scotty · May 7, 2002

Crules...I'm not saying that you can't do it. I've done the same exact thing. In fact, I skidded logs in the same way for the first year or so. I survived my own stupidity, and with any luck you will too.

Around here a guy has to skid logs or else be cold in the winter. One way to do it with much less danger of turnover is to mount a sturdy 3point implement to the tractor and then chain to it to raise the log. Now you have the advantage of a long lever arm compressing the top link to keep the tractor from overturning - and that's what a top link is built for. As a bonus, chaining the log to the implement allows you to raise it higher and swing it farther away from the wheels. All good things. A back blade or box blade works good for doing that and makes the whole rig a lot safer.