Dreaded #2 Fuse blows immediatly in TC40D

[captainsawdust]

Last weekend, TC40D wouldn't start, crank, etc. I replaced the #2 fuse and viola! started up and ran therest of the day with no problems. Went to start tonight, #2 blew again. I went out and bought a package of fuses and went through 4 of them over the next 45 minutes. I have pulled the side panel and looked at the various relays and cannot find any obvious wire issues. Does anybody know anything that would keep blowing that fuse, as far as I can tell from the limited wiring diagrams, all the safety switches would keep the tractor from starting but wouldn't necessarily blow the fuse. I should also add that just turning the key does not immediatly blow the fuse. All the various lights and indicators work as expected with the engine off. The tractor has always started without the use of the glowplugs in warm weather almost as fast as if I use them so I have turned the key to try and fire it up and the fuse will only blow if I keep the key turned to start for about 3 or 4 seconds. Help!!

 

[thclimer]

Welcome to TBN, lots of good info here and some very smart people to help you, much smarter than I, but here are a few places to start; post #8 in the link below will most likely fix your problem:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/new-holland-owning-operating/187899-tc40-wont-start.html

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/new-holland-owning-operating/203288-tc-40-wont-start.html

Good luck and let us know what you find so others can share from your experience, this is how we all learn a little more.

 

[DocHeb]

Jim Inman will chime in, but the Fuel Solenoid may be involved. See
TC40D won't start for some troubleshooting tips.
Also, the fuel solenoid coil can go bad. See: Fuse#2 Frustration (Class III Boomers).

 

[jinman]

Jim Inman will chime in. . . .

Ding-Dong!:laughing:

Cap'n, did you replace the fuse with the exact value or go up to a 10 amp fuse? Once this fuse starts to blow, it's an indicator that you are going to need a slightly bigger fuse because the circuits seem to repeat the fault that causes a momentary overload. Even a 10-amp fuse will blow. Since I replaced my fuse with a self-resetting circuit breaker from NAPA, my problem went away. BTW: Many tractors have self-resetting CBs from the factory, so this is not a shade-tree fix.

You could have a bad fuel cutoff solenoid that is loading the circuit, but since you are going to need a CB anyhow, it's best to get the CB now because the solenoid is just one of the things that can cause the fuse to blow. I would start by going up to a 10 amp fuse if you have one available. I would not recommend going to 15 amp, but you might try one if that is all you have available. If you do, sniff around to make sure nothing is getting too hot. Your fuel cutoff solenoid is on the back of the injector pump. It's about 1" diameter and about 2" long cylinder with one wire going to a spade connector. You can feel it to see if it is getting hot. If it is shorting and drawing too much current, it will be very hot.

To give you an idea, the fuel solenoid normally pulls about 1 amp of current. It's obvious that unless it is going bad, it cannot cause the fuse to blow by itself. There are other "mysteries" in this circuit that cause it to draw too much current.

Here's a photo of the solenoid just in case. I DO NOT think you have a solenoid problem. These things do fail, but rarely so.

 

[RickB]

A 10 amp blade type circuit breaker instead of the fuse solves this problem about 99% of the time.

 

[barbqranch]

One reason the circuit breaker may solve the problem is even at the same current rating, a small, short overload that won't trip a CB may be enough to pop a fuse. A CB will trip very quickly for a large overload, but can handle a small overload quite a while.

 

[RickB]

One reason the circuit breaker may solve the problem is even at the same current rating, a small, short overload that won't trip a CB may be enough to pop a fuse. A CB will trip very quickly for a large overload, but can handle a small overload quite a while.

Exactly why the CB is the 'factory fix' for the listed symptoms.

 

[captainsawdust]

Well, so far I've replaced the fuse with a 10A. NAPA was closed and none of the other auto arts stores had a 10A breaker. I did have to throw the battery on the charger to get it to start. Any ideas if a dead battery could be the cause, or is it more likely a symptom (It's probably 3 yrs old and lives outside all year long). Will post results of next attempt to start it tomorrow or next day.

 

[mojoinco]

FYI: there are different time delay trip points for circuit breakers.

Usually this is for start up current issues (peak power required when something first powers up). I am sure there is plenty of good technical info on the web for this. I think that when you don't spec this detail you get a pretty liberal trip delay.

 

[jinman]

I did have to throw the battery on the charger to get it to start. Any ideas if a dead battery could be the cause, or is it more likely a symptom (It's probably 3 yrs old and lives outside all year long).

Yes, a weak battery seems to contribute to this problem either directly or indirectly. Many people with weak batteries have reported a blown fuse. However, the self-resetting CB will take care of it and save you the extra hassle even with a low battery. BTW: I know that AutoZone carries the CBs. They are normally right there on the rack beside the fuses and fusible links. I won't guarantee that their clerks know what they are though.