Dressing Up A Scratched Cylinder Rod???

[BTDT]

Dougster, I think your cylinder and installation tool (forklift) passed me on my way home yesterday. You should have it soon.

 

[Wayne County Hose]

Ummmm...... I hope that guy wasn't coming to my shop with that monster. Buying the oil to fill that thing would bankrupt me. Holy smokes!

 

[EastTnFarmboy]

Anyone speculating on what it's for?

 

[civesnedfield]

Anyone speculating on what it's for?

Looks like one of the boom cylinders off a hyd crane

 

[BTDT]

Anyone speculating on what it's for?

It may be part of another of 3RRL's projects I didn't catch the name on the truck, and I tried to zoom in on the mudflap to see if it was a company name there, but no luck. This was headed south on Central expressway going toward downtown Dallas yesterday.

 

[bindian]

I was able to get the cost of the seal kit ($53.45) and the bushing (if needed: $47.04)... but for some reason, the cost of the rod itself is apparently top secret.


Dougster

Dougster,
This is the same exact scenario I ran into with my "lite" scratch on my stabilizer rod.
hugs, Brandi

 

[tlbuser]

It may be part of another of 3RRL's projects

Isn't it traveling in the wrong direction to be stopping for mods. at 3RRL's before being delivered to Larry's place Unless Rob has a new South central pal. Are Wroughtn harv or eddie walker up to something besides oktoberfest?

 

[bindian]

Dougster,
After catching up on the posts here, I went out to look at the Big Red Beast's 511. I can't picture how you will use pneumatics to remove the gland nut. I might have missed something here. It would have to be a mighty slim impact wrench, as the rod will be in the way. My bucket cylinder gland nut is round (no hex) with two holes on the end for the wrench. The tool to remove my gland nut, I call a gland nut wrench. Store bought versions cost a bunch. The one in the photo below lists for $99 online. A good welder should be able to make a home made one for 1/5 of that price. A breaker bar and cheater pipe would be used with it. A large ball peen hammer might be needed to help break the nut loose. Also, I don't see how strapping the cylinder to the dipper stick would work, to loosen or torque the nut, with Bradco's welded on hard line between the cylinder and dipper stick. Bradco's thumb attach bracket is in the way also. Break the gland nut loose and torque it with the vise attached to your bumper hitch receiver. Use a large pipe vise if you can.
As for torqueing the nut back on, a 3-4 foot cheater pipe and pulling or pushing with all you got should be enough torque. For safetly, have another person put pressure down on the gland nut wrench, to keep the wrench pins positively engaged in the holes of the nut.
Attached is a photo of a spanner wrench and an adjustable gland nut wrench. I hate the adjustable ones. Most airliner gland nuts and pneumatic duct clamps have the holes on the side, that way the more you torque it, the more the pin engages deeper into the hole. Good luck and take it slowly.
hugs, Brandi

 

[shaley]

Bindian, where can you get a gland nut wrench like that. I need one.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Anyone speculating on what it's for?

Drawbridge?
larry