Drill Bit Sets

[RandyT]

I have had the best luck with hi-molybdenum bits. Have drills things with them that Dewalt or Irwin cobalt wouldn't even produce chips and when inspected the cutting edge would be rounded over.

 

[bigtiller]

Dewalt makes a "pilot-point bit" that is impressive to me, that I use when drilling by hand. I also have a set of cobalt bits that was expensive. They are not just cobalt coated. These bits are so hard/brittle that I only use them in the drill press. Using them by hand, if they catch, there is a good probability they will break.

 

[Smokeydog]

I have some cobalt and molybdenum, one left hand set, just for hard steel or SS used mainly in drill presses. They hold up well but expect they are brittle. Slow with cutting oil.
Working from several indexes of broken bits. Like the old USA made stuff. Have the first gen drill doctor helps resharpen. I can do better sharpening bits over 1/2”.

Got a small bag of 8mm (cobalt? ) Split point bits from the flea market years ago. For CNC? Can’t kill them. Super sharp and tough. Use for starting holes, pilot holes for bigger drills. Love to have a set of these.

Let us know what you decide on.

 

[PILOON]

Dormer drill bits was the ones we'd favor and whenever I see some at flea markets or yard sales I grab them.
However from time to time I come across some offshore 'no name' bits that are comparable, that first hole in cold rolled lets U know in a hurry.

 

[arrow]

For straight up non cobalt drills, the best bits I've used are Bosch and Milwaukee.
DeWalts aren't too bad but I find them not quite up to snuff as th above two..
Have had better durability with these than the Irwin's.

The off shore cobalts may be cheap but I find them to be extremely fragile.
One drill grab, say like you get when finishing a hole is enough to crack a piece off the bit on these one too many times.

I am willing to bet that there product names out there the average homeowner has never heard of.
Bits that are used industrially and may cost $200-$400 a set or more. Perhaps a bit of overkill for the average person.

I keep several of the off shore brand drill kits around for the convenience and extensive size choice.
I have a couple of Milwaukee 8 drill sets that I use most of the time if the hole size corresponds to what I'm trying to make.
If I had say thirty 1/2" holes to make in metal, I spring for the particular $11-$12 Bosch cobalt bit as I know it'l do all 30 w/o stopping.

 

[gsganzer]

I saw a set of drill bits on Abom79 Youtube channel the other day and I found that to be a very cool concept. The tip of the drill is ground like a step drill, which should reduce the force needed to push the drill through the material. It's a great fit for hand drills.

Here is the link. It's made in USA by the way, or so they claim. The only downside I see is that it can't be easily ground like the conventional drill bits.

VORTEX–POINT™ Mechanics Length — Norseman™ Drill and Tool

VORTEX–POINT™ - Unique tip geometry reduces heat generation and increasing tool life.

www.norsemandrill.com

I can't comment on the Vortex drill bits themselves, but the barrel style bit holder in the picture is the best I've used. Northern Tool sells one for around $20. They hold up to getting banged around in a tool box. The only improvements would be to add a few extra spots for common pilot bits and add some color contrast to the molded numbering of the sizes for aging eyes. I might try to do that myself with a paint pen.

 

[etpm]

If you really want drill bits that last then you need to buy high quality ones. Drill bits sold by industrial suppliers like MSC or Western Tool. You should get cobalt bits. Split point bits will require less pressure and tend to be self centering. The point angle should be 135 degrees, which it should be if the drill bit is a split point. ALWAYS use cutting oil. Not motor oil or any common lubricating oil. Any decent hardware store will have threading oil for sale and that stuff is fine. Look up the proper speed to spin the drill bit. There are charts all over the internet. Do not exceed these speeds. Use enough pressure to insure that the bit is always making chips, especially when drilling stainless steel. The preceding advice comes from a just retired machinist and machine shop owner who has been cutting metal, and practically everything else, for over 45 years.
Good Luck,
Eric

 

[RolandW]

If you really want drill bits that last then you need to buy high quality ones. Drill bits sold by industrial suppliers like MSC or Western Tool. You should get cobalt bits. Split point bits will require less pressure and tend to be self centering. The point angle should be 135 degrees, which it should be if the drill bit is a split point. ALWAYS use cutting oil. Not motor oil or any common lubricating oil. Any decent hardware store will have threading oil for sale and that stuff is fine. Look up the proper speed to spin the drill bit. There are charts all over the internet. Do not exceed these speeds. Use enough pressure to insure that the bit is always making chips, especially when drilling stainless steel. The preceding advice comes from a just retired machinist and machine shop owner who has been cutting metal, and practically everything else, for over 45 years.
Good Luck,
Eric

Excellent advice. MSC Industrial Supply was my main source (I'm retired from the CNC machining business). They have just about any kind you can imagine, and name brands as well as cheaper imports. For routine handyman/hobbyist work, I'm guessing their cheap ones are fine. I would stay away from the no-names from vendors who sell to the masses. There's cheap and then there's junk.
I always used screw-machine length any time a longer drill was not needed, which was most of the time. Generally black 135-degree split-points for steel and bright 118-degree for aluminum. I've done a lot of machining, but never could do a decent job of sharpening a drill, so I always treated the smaller sizes as throw-aways and took the higher-dollar ones to the guy who did my other sharpening. I always made sure I had plenty of the most-used sizes on hand, especially tap drills. It is good to have one complete set, especially the number sizes.

 

[jaxs]

Around 1980 I had to buy drill bits from a smalltown hardware store because mine were back at the shop. I bought a set of Hanson marked HS and on reccomendation of salesman,a Black & Decker sharpener. I kept them on my truck until I retired in 2008 and in the shop since. During that 40 years I've had 2 sets and 3 index boxes. If a bit was dull when I tried it I put it in spare index box to be sharpened and grabbed one to use from spares. I've replaced most small ones but the rest still take sharpening. Needless to say I'm pleased with the bits and after 2 replacement stones the sharpener still does a good job. I believe Hanson is now associated with Irwin and I haven't seen anything for years with B&D brand that I would use if they gave it to me.
I believe more bits are ruined by improper speed and pressure than being worn out. Some bits cut well when new but dull quickly after coating wear's off.

 

[Fxfymn413]

I have had good luck with the sets Drill America sells. By far the biggest improvement I have made to my drill collection was to add a Drill Doctor sharpener to my shop. I always thought they were a gimmick, but they work very well and are easy to use. I have sharpened a 5/8 bit and gone as small as 1/8. Unless you break or lose a bit you should not have to buy another set of bits if you keep them up with this.