Drilling steel.

[wushaw]

The whole blowing up thing aside, 2 alternate methods to a 1 1/4" drill would be:
1. A cutting torch or plasma cutter followed by a die grinder with a carbide bur.
2. Mark a circle and make a series of progressive small holes, (low speed drill with cutting oil), along the line followed by the die grinder with a carbide bur.
Both methods will be time consuming.

That ain't no $$$$, chain drilling a hole in thick metal is very time consuming.

A jig saw with a metal cutting blade also works after all your holes are drilled....then dress up with the high speed rotary file.

 

[ray66v]

I not sure a jig saw will make a circle that tight (1 1/4") in thick metal?
Then you have to make bigger holes so the blade will fit in them too.

BTW, Home Depot sells Rigid Hole saws with a LIFETIME guarantee, (I think there nuts), they once assured me that if I burn them up all I have to do is return it to the customer service desk. They will then replace them no questions asked. If you don't already own one or need to replace the one you have after a hole or two, that is the way to go.

 

[Harry c]

Technically, it will sublimate, going from a solid to a vapor. Evaporate is going from a liquid to a vapor.

Yawn, I must be bored to correct such a penny-enny thing.

I am bored! The correct term is "penny ante" I believe.

 

[jwmorris]

Water is a cheap way to purge (don't cut at the very top where air pockets might be), but I prefer an inert gas like argon or carbon dioxide. I would probably go with plasma or oxy/act for cutting the hole just for speed. Either way I doubt the tank is 3/8 thick, even your 2500psi tanks are not that thick and propane pressure is 1000's of psi less. A 1 1/4 inch bi-metal hole saw will need to run around 200 rpm +- and a mag drill will be more difficult than a hand drill, unless your tank has flat surfaces.

 

[swines]

I'd suggest using a RotoBrute carbide hole saw.

Fresno Oxygen / Barnes Welding Supply

I have several of them. They cut really fast and make a smooth hole with no burrs. Worth every penny if you're having to make multiple holes.

 

[biggerten]

I am bored! The correct term is "penny ante" I believe.

Hahahah! I stand corrected, sir!

And you put it so well, I didn't even mind the well deserved boot in the pa-toot!

 

[swines]

I am bored! The correct term is "penny ante" I believe.

And here I thought Penny Ante was a pricing game played on "The Price is Right"....

 

[sandman2234]

The one I cut was at least 5/15" thick. It is still a pressure vessel and needs to withstand the water/pressure displacement test thingy.(hydro test)
David from jax

 

[SPYDERLK]

Are you suggesting that I could hook up the dust collector to an outlet while welding? It will move about 1400 cfm through an 8" hole. The 2" outlet would slow that down a bit.

You need good fresh air turbulence in the heated area and as much of the interior volume as possible. I think you will be able to move a couple hundred CFM thru the 2" hole. Normally going down a factor of 4 in diameter would limit delivery to 1/16, but I assume the 2" flowpath will be very short and therefore much less limiting.
larry

 

[hydrovane218]

I think I would be a little cautious myself about cutting into a fuel cylinder BUT... about a year ago, an older fellow I know that deals with alot of scrap metal, cut up a few dozen BBQ tanks with an Oxy-Propane toch. I don't believe he did any more than take the valves off before cutting them in half. I was actually there while he was cutting some of them. It hadn't occured to me that it was dangerous, as long as the tanks had been opened up.(OOPS)
AnyHoo..not sure how he got away with that operation...maybe luck?