driveway back blade.

/ driveway back blade. #1  

docsfarm

Bronze Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2015
Messages
81
Location
Williamsport, Pa
Tractor
Mahindra 5035 HST
My driveway at my farm is in serious need of work after previous owners years of neglect.. It could use several loads of stone too.
Anyway... Someone gave me a back blade. 5' landpride. I finally had a chance to use it.
Wow.... I don't know how anyone uses a back blade for this sort of thing without full hydraulics on the blade. Top, Tilt and angle. I was on and off the tractor adjusting things over and over. Since I won't be using this driveway forever, I doubt I need it, but if I had to do this with any regularity, I'd buy some hydraulics!!!
Am I just a lazy wimp here???
 
/ driveway back blade. #2  
NOPE, NOPE, NOPE. It will just take you more time to putter Doc. I hope the flail mower is exceeding your expectations as we speak.

Leon
 
/ driveway back blade. #3  
In my area we tend to use gravel. 150/ 11 cubic yards or so. Goes on easily- specify size of stone you want to be the biggest. 1" is nice. You spread it. After the first rain it is sloppy and then it drys and hardens. Then it is great- year round.
 
/ driveway back blade. #4  
...I don't know how anyone uses a back blade for this sort of thing without full hydraulics on the blade...
Once you have it, it's hard to go back. Today, I put down some 6" pipe under my road and used my offset back blade to carve the ditch out, laid the pipe in and covered it up. Had to tilt the blade sharply to get it done. No way could I have done this without hydraulics!!!
 
/ driveway back blade.
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Leon, The flail is working spectacularly!! I really love it. I regularly take down 2" (or sometimes bigger) autumn olive and other such trees with the flail. When I pull over them, there is just mulch left most of the time. Once in a while, I need to back up and go over again. Its really quite amazing!!!
As for the blade.... If I need more than a drag behind plane in the future, its hydraulics for me!
 
/ driveway back blade. #6  
AH it is wonderful to hear that the flail mower is working well doctor.
Have you purchased your world series tickets yet?
 
/ driveway back blade.
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Oh... All games of the Little League World Series is free to attend. It is an absolutely amazing time here. Busy. Much more traffic, but so exciting. I often describe it as one of the last pure, happy, and inexpensive things on earth. :)
 
/ driveway back blade. #8  
Oh... All games of the Little League World Series is free to attend. It is an absolutely amazing time here. Busy. Much more traffic, but so exciting. I often describe it as one of the last pure, happy, and inexpensive things on earth. :)
I keep wanting to go see one. Our local team almost made it, lost in final regional last night
 
/ driveway back blade. #9  
docsfarm,

It's good to see what you've been up to. I remember when you were looking for a tractor. Are you finding that having a tractor is both fun and therapeutic?

Doing good work with a back blade takes finesse and practice. It helps if you have guide wheels, or if you are lucky, you can go old school ...

Pony Grader.jpg
 
/ driveway back blade. #10  
My driveway at my farm is in serious need of work after previous owners years of neglect.. It could use several loads of stone too.
Anyway... Someone gave me a back blade. 5' landpride. I finally had a chance to use it.
Wow.... I don't know how anyone uses a back blade for this sort of thing without full hydraulics on the blade. Top, Tilt and angle. I was on and off the tractor adjusting things over and over. Since I won't be using this driveway forever, I doubt I need it, but if I had to do this with any regularity, I'd buy some hydraulics!!!
Am I just a lazy wimp here???

In my view, yes. I don't see the point in spending money for needless hydraulics. All it takes is a little practice. I've been grading my rather "challenging" driveway for 20 years with a simple non-hydraulic back blade. See for example this thread: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/299055-grading-interesting-driveway.html
 
/ driveway back blade.
  • Thread Starter
#11  
Buckeye- You definitely should try and get out for a couple games! They really are fun. Its a great experience if you love baseball.
Airbiscuit- yes, I love having the tractor. I get so much done and it is VERY therapeutic!
 
/ driveway back blade. #12  
What works for me is to grade with my back blade going in reverse.
Theory is that your wheels are on a flat surface so that the blade has a flat reference to work from otherwise every dip and bump is magnified with impossible results.
I generally reverse the blade when going backwards so as to have a cutting action but not too much of a bite.
For my final finishing passes I leave the blade reversed but drive forwards at an increased speed. \
The end results are a super nice finish.
 
/ driveway back blade.
  • Thread Starter
#13  
Terry- It is quite possible I need more time and more experience :) How long does it take you to do as in your linked thread? I felt like I just couldn't take as much as I'd like with each pass.
 
/ driveway back blade. #14  
Doc,

It probably takes me a couple of hours. I make a pass up each side with the blade set to drag the gravel out of the ditches, then another pass up each side to grade to the center. Finally a pass or two with the blade reversed to knock down the windrow in the center. Maybe a little more touch-up in some difficult places.

But I am just working with six months to a year's worth of traffic "damage" and washes from heavy rains, not several years of abuse as you describe.

One challenge is getting the blade set for each pass. After some years of this I often get it right the first time for each pass, occasionally have to stop to make an adjustment.

I find the horizontal angle of the blade (how much the leading edge cuts into the ditch) is best set by adjusting the top link, which I can do from the seat if I don't get it right the first time. I know some favor using the adjustment to level one arm of the 3-point, but I don't find my tractor has enough adjustment there to get the job done, and if you use that you have to adjust again when you swing the blade to the other side (I only grade going up hill to try and work the gravel back up the hill). After setting the angle for one side with the top link it's already set when I swing to the other side.

I always wait until after we've had some rain because the driveway is too hard to cut with my feeble old blade when it's dry, but also to make it pack better after I'm done. Grading when dry leaves it loose and it quickly becomes washboarded by traffic.

BTW, I just noticed you are in Williamsport PA. My ancestors lived Turbut and Lewis Townships in the mid to late 1800's before their descendants mostly headed west.
 
/ driveway back blade.
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Terry, thanks for the answers! I'll have to try again next time it rains. Our big problem lately is no soaking rain... Just 30 minute downpours of 2 inches. It sure is beautiful country here... But I guess west was where people moved then :)
 
/ driveway back blade. #16  
I have 1/4 mile of steep driveway with multiple grade changes. I had a top n tilt installed and picked up a heavy rear blade with hydraulic angle. It is worth every penny. I can adjust on the fly to each change without leaving the seat.
 
/ driveway back blade. #17  
I have a mile long, straight as an arrow - gravel driveway. Recently purchased a new Rhino 950 - 8' rear blade. Makes all the difference in the world on summer driveway maintenance. At 1000# its heavy enough to cut smoothly rather than chatter like my lighter rear blade does. I use three implements to maintain my hard as concrete driveway - rear blade, land plane grading scraper & roll over box blade.

BTW - three years ago I added a Fit Rite hydraulic top link. What a wonderful piece of equipment - adjustments made on the fly. Its a true lifesaver.
 
/ driveway back blade.
  • Thread Starter
#18  
I am starting to wonder if weight might be an answer to helping me get work done with the blade.
 
/ driveway back blade. #19  
Heavy and with a rear gauge wheel. The gauge wheel really helps eliminate the whoops!

 
/ driveway back blade. #20  
I now have two rear blades. Land Pride RB3596, 8 ft, 566# - - Rhino 950, 8 ft, 1000#. For my driveway, that becomes concrete after the spring rains - there is little choice. Due to its lack of weight the Land Pride drags along behind and simply chatters. The Rhino also due to its weight, gets to business, digs in and cuts a nice clean swath - no rip, tears, or chattering.

I have a cast cube of cement - 485#. I was thinking of simply setting it on the Land Pride and lashing it down. Many advised against this - the structure of the lighter Land Pride is not built for that weight and could easily fail. Besides the new Rhino is such a fine looking beast.

I've never tried a rear gauge wheel but I can see how that could help also.View attachment 518575
 
 

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