Grading Driveway grading w/ 2210

[cowboydoc]

So with the boxblade it does not do a good job with grading the driveway?

No it will do a great job at grading your driveway. The scarifers work very nice to rip up the potholes.

 

[rmonio]

If you're referring to me, I wouldn't want to grade my blacktop driveway with the boxblade. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

But I have used it to grade gravel driveways though - works like a champ. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

-Bob

 

[OkieG]

Have read many posts on TBN re: BoxBlade for grading gravel drives. My first try was on a buddy's drive that serves two houses and a duplex, ie plenty of ruts! A handful of passes with a BoxBlade and the results are amazing.

As per Coyboydoc, use scarifiers to loosen gravel at least as deep as the bottom of ruts.
As per rmonio, works like a champ.

Either a BackBlade or BoxBlade can make a drive look pretty when you just finish grading. The secret to a longer lasting result is BoxBlade scarifiers. From what I've read, ripping the ruts down to their bottom will help keep them from reforming. Not doing so, as with a BackBlade, will allow the ruts to reform more quickly. Have never tried a BackBlade. The drive I worked on has looked pretty good all summer, though some small ruts are starting to form.

OkieG

 

[Docsknotinn]

Hambone, You probably dont notice this on a box blade as its square and carrys material along. I sure wish thats what I would have bought. /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif You dont have set rock shaft settings on the 2210 ....er. well at least mine doesn't. Thats a feature you get on the 4010 series. If you drop your blade (rear blade not box blade ) and then return to neutural you are correct it will not continue to drop. But if you hit a dip in the road or low spot you then wind up digging a bigger hole. Unless you drive slow and are constantly adjusting the rock shaft Which is a real pain. In your case I bet you just drop material in it that you are carrying along. If we lived closer I would drop off the blade so you could give it a try but I bet five bucks you'll be a lot happier with the box blade. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Of course My driveway is really a woods road so not nearly as smooth as others. The blade does work very well on my roads that have 23a or road material on them. I prefer the chain harrow for this though as it stirs up all the smaller stones for the grouse and turkeys. I dont like a rear blade for snow as I have seen a few guys destroy their rear tires moveing snow with a rear blade. Besides, I like to play with the FEL /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif In short I think you and CowboyDoc are right. But when I first bought and every one said rear blade I thought they meant REAR BLADE and not Box Grader. Just dont want to see any one else make the same $400+ mistakle I did. LOL Dave

 

[jdeerestl]

"Set Rock Shaft Settings"

By that you mean set stops? I would think you would still have the same problems with digging in. The way I grade, I adjust the box as I go along. Its hard on the neck - always turning around, but its the only way I can keep it from digging in where I dont want it. Also with the scarifiers down I tend to rip up the 3" rock underneath the minus. Maybe I just need more minus. My neighbors are amazed at my little 2210 grading roads!

 

[Docsknotinn]

With pre set rock shaft settings you no doubt will have the same problem but to a much smaller degree. You barely move the lever on the 2210 and the thing moves a pretty fair amount. Its the only real complaint I have about the machine. My issue is compunded with a rear blade Vs the Box Grader due to the direct angle of the blade. This is adjustable as well but its still a Royal pain. Dave

 

[Cowher36]

Guys, so I should go with the 48" Woods Box? Do I need any special connections to hook this up to the 2210? Thanks again.

 

[twosixer]

You can slow the rate of drop on the blade in the back. I wouldn't recommend it for the mower deck, but I turn the rate of drop (located between the legs on floor) and it really slows it down. Only problem is that you can set it tooo slow and it will not drop at all and can lock you up. I worked for me when I was grading my back yard.

 

[Docsknotinn]

The drop rate adjustment works well on mine and I have to re adjust it for each different implement due to weight differences. The problem I have is when I want to raise it just a tich. Its nearly impossible. If I move the lever real slow it hits a point where it kicks in and jumps. This is not a problem with a heavier implement like a tiller. Each machine has its quirks. I was really just wanting to clarify the difference betwen a rear blade and a box grader which is often reffered to as a rear blade as well. I would most certainly recommend the Box grader over the blade. 48" is right for the 2210. If you have the iMatch you want to make sure the woods is compatable first. I know the frontier models are. Dave PS. My frontier rear blade was made by woods

 

[fgross335_2210]

I don't have a boxblade yet, just a 5-ft rear blade for my 2210. Yes the lack of a rockshaft height setting is a problem.

What I find works best is as follows: Set blade on shallow angle with cutting edge forward. Angle leading edge DOWN (cutting deeper). Make a pass along each side with leading edge on edge of driveway. This moves gravel towards middle and creates a crown. Then, flip blade around with no angle (current edge to back). Grade center, cuts off crown and distributes gravel away from center. If crown is still too high, make another pass and/or angle blade to side and make a pass in both directions.

Probably not as good as a box blade, but works for me and I will continue to do this until I get a boxblade.....