Dry pin on loader

[Zephrant]

While I was cleaning up my new-to-me JD2210 today, I noticed that one of the pins was not oozing a ton of grease like the others. I pulled the pin and found it was bone dry. Not a hint of lube.

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I used some emery cloth on the hole and was going to do the pin a little, but was wondering if I should do anything else before I replaced the zert, greased up the pin and hole, and put it back together?

As far as I can tell, the zert has been clogged for a long time, maybe since it was built. Since the dealer claimed they had just greased everything, I had not yet done it myself. Now I'll be checking all the rest of the grease points.

I suppose the right thing might be to ream it and use an over-sized pin, but for the amount of use I'll put on it, that seams like a lot of trouble.

 

[Inkomodius]

You could take a brake hone on a drill to the inside and have a machine shop polish the pin or just buy a new pin, you might loose negligable amounts of material but FEL aren't build with the tightest tolerances anywho. clean it out with WD-40 then grease her up.

 

[Erik_in_Hoyt]

240 grit emory cloth with some penetrating oil on it to clean up the pin and hole, and you should be good to go.
if you got the zerk cleaned out, shouldn't need to replace it, either.
Like the idea of going over all the zerks with an extra shot of grease just to be sure, though.
cheap insurance.

 

[Egon]

Is the pin real loose? If not why replace it?

New or cleaned Zerk and cleaned out fitting hole and all should be good.

I found several pins like that on my new old tractor when it came home. They all accept grease now.

 

[banjodunn]

Gday all if you dont think that the pin movement is excessive (i.e about the same as the other side) then i would just buff it up un a wire wheel clean out the grease nipple hole fit a new nipple put some anti seize on the fixed holes of the pin refit, grease, use

 

[Zephrant]

I don't have a brake hone, but will see how clean I can get with the Emery cloth, and maybe a wire brush wheel.

The pin was snug to drive out, I'll check again after I clean it up a little. I was able to clean out the zerk, although it took a dentil pick, air compressor and Goof-Off. I think it will work now, but I'm wondering if I shouldn't just put a new one in. If the new ones I bought today fit, I think I'll just do that to be sure.

I'm not sure if I have any anti-seize, other than some stuff I bought for exhaust header bolts some time ago. Should I use that, or just grease?

Thanks for the help all-

 

[Zephrant]

I'm pretty sure the threads on the zerk were 1/8" NPT. If not, they are now. I chased out the threads with a tap, and put the original zerk back in. Works great now.

I got six of the twelve pins out tonight- the other five I pulled were not in bad shape, but two more zerks had a plug of dried rust/gunk that were mostly blocking them, but not as bad as the completely plugged one.

I cleaned out the old grease, lubed them up and put them back in. I'll do the other six in a day or two.

So my suggestion for new owners of used tractors- pull the pins and see what you have got.

 

[banjodunn]

G'day if you put the anti seize on the mounting parts of the pin it makes it so much easier to remove them next time if you haven't got anti seize grease is ok anything is better than nothing good job you found them when you did another trick is rather than removing the pin remove the grease nipple and have a dig around with a small pick to remove any plug of grease refit the nipple and grease with any luck that will work

 

[Zephrant]

Well none of the other pins were completely dry, but I did have three other zerks that had a big plug of rust/dirt in them and another zerk that I had to remove to unplug. So out of 12 pivots, 5 had issues.

I'm not sure if it works better, but I feel better knowing what it is like in there, and that it is properly lubed for now.