Dry Rot Repair Question: Best Methods for Effective Restoration?

[geteh]

Hello everyone,

I’m dealing with dry rot in my wooden structure and need some guidance on the best repair methods. The affected area is around a window frame and some floor joists.

I’m looking for advice on how to effectively remove the rotted wood, treat the surrounding area to prevent future rot and restore the structural integrity.

Should I replace the entire damaged section or is there a way to reinforce it?

Also, are there any recommended treatments or products for preventing dry rot from returning?

Your expertise would be greatly appreciated!

 

[geteh]

Hello everyone,

I’m dealing with dry rot in my wooden structure and need some guidance on the best repair methods. The affected area is around a window frame and some floor joists.

I’m looking for advice on how to effectively remove the rotted wood, treat the surrounding area to prevent future rot and restore the structural integrity.

Should I replace the entire damaged section or is there a way to reinforce it?

Also, are there any recommended treatments or products for preventing dry rot from returning from https://www.rotdoctor.co/?

Your expertise would be greatly appreciated!

thanks in advance for any help

 

[WinterDeere]

Between a lifetime of living in old houses and racing old wooden boats, rot is my continuous nemesis. There is always that, “rebuild, replace, repair” debate, with many factors going into it. Your time? Your tools? How long the repair needs to last? Historic significance if the parts involved?

And why do you assume it’s dry rot, and not wet rot? I have much less experience with dry rot, but I do believe their are chemical treatments to kill the fungi involved in dry rot.

Got some photos of the item or area in question?

 

[Oaktree]

Obviously, the repair method depends on the extent of the damage, but for relatively small rotted-out spots I'll usually dig out ALL the rotted wood, treat it with wood hardener, then fill with an epoxy wood filler. If it's too far gone, you'll probably want to replace the rotted wood.

 

[2manyrocks]

You need to make an assessment whether the rot is limited to where it makes sense just to repair a small area with epoxy or it makes better sense to replace the entire board.

 

[Willman]

Obviously, the repair method depends on the extent of the damage, but for relatively small rotted-out spots I'll usually dig out ALL the rotted wood, treat it with wood hardener, then fill with an epoxy wood filler. If it's too far gone, you'll probably want to replace the rotted wood.
View attachment 1966297

I have done the same on rotted window sills, dug out rot, used wood hardener, built back up with new wood, treated that with hardener and then finishing build up with wood epoxy
If you’re wood has any decorative features you can mould the epoxy and then sand to match after it is hard

 

[MAX-24-Dean]

Ethylene glycol is what my uncle used on his fishing boats for dry rot, then an oil base paint.
When we scrapped it we used a shop vac so the wood we scrapped off wouldn't land on any other wood and possibly contaminate it.
If the rot is very deep into the wood (1/16") then I would consider it wet rot. Then there needs to be some rework to get water to drain away from the window and make sure there are weep holes at the base of the window for drainage to the outside of the house wrap.

 

[California]

I put 'sweat equity' into our first home, doing the work myself to pass FHA renovation specs and qualify for the loan. I was a journeyman carpenter at the time.

At the living room window I replaced a rotted corner of the sill with a marine product called GitRot, a putty, after getting approval from the FHA building inspector.

I've heard of treating the cleared area as others here described, then using Bondo to build up the void.

But for anything structural you probably want to replace rather than patch.


Years ago we cheapskated the deck repair here at the ranch with new redwood decking over old joists. Now 30 years later, I've had to scab 2x6's next to rotted joists to have something to screw down loose decking into. Dad's advice for this ancient simple farmhouse was bulldoze it after he was gone. Now that I own it I'm giving the same advice to my kids.

The original foundation of the house rested on redwood planks, 'mudsills' laid right on the ground. When I was a kid I helped replace all that with pier-and-post but the house still has a lean to it. Now with earthquake codes this could never qualify for a loan. Again, 'Just bulldoze it when I'm gone!!! '

Photo below: Earlier this year, scabbing onto stair stringers that were rotted where they rested on paving bricks. Redwood is durable but not ideal for ground contact.

 

[4570Man]

Wood doesn’t dry rot especially around windows frames. Stopping the leak is the first thing to do.

 

[Racer4]

Hello everyone,

I’m dealing with dry rot in my wooden structure and need some guidance on the best repair methods. The affected area is around a window frame and some floor joists.

I’m looking for advice on how to effectively remove the rotted wood, treat the surrounding area to prevent future rot and restore the structural integrity.

Should I replace the entire damaged section or is there a way to reinforce it?

Also, are there any recommended treatments or products for preventing dry rot from returning?

Your expertise would be greatly appreciated!

Some pics of the affected areas will be helpful.

Sounds like wet rot if it started at a window and the floor below it.

I feel removal and replacement of rotten wood is the best solution. Been doing this for 30 years.

Floor joist repair is tricky because of the weight resting on them. They will need support under them if they need to be removed. If you can’t remove them, you can cut off the bad section and sister another full floor joist alongside the old. Wiring and pipes complicate things.