drywall/router tool

[Freds]

Let me start by saying I'm not very familiar with the tools available to do carpentry project. I'm a tin knocker at heart, but at any rate I need some advice on the following:

I've got a project coming up where I am going to build out a block wall on the inside of a building (my kennel). I'm going to frame in around the windows and pet doors with wood. I am going to fasten drywall to the wood and glue FRP on top of that.
I've seen these router type tools that drywallers use to cut openings for electrical boxes and was wondering if they could be used to cut my window and door openings. One concern I have is that instead of a plastic or metal box as a guide, there will be wood framework as a guide, so will the tool cut into the wood as well? Another concern is if they can handle that much cutting. I will need to cut about 110 sq ft out of about 1100 sq ft of drywall plus the FRP.

I was also wondering if I would be better off cutting the layers separately, the drywall first, then after the FRP is up and the adhesive dry, the FRP, or both together so only one cut is made per opening.

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Any takers? Thank you very much for any and all advice on if there is a right tool for this job.

 

[Maxfli]

Maybe this is off subject, but we put Kennels into our new house built in 2004. We used Cinder Block for the walls, and Cement board for the Studded Back wall. Here is a pic of the Kennels.

 

[btolle]

It shuld work OK after you have it all put together.

One thing to watch is don't crowd the tool or you will break the bit. Just take your time and it will do a great job. I have cut a lot of wood with mine with no problems.

If you need a precise cut you can make a jig from some pieces of lumber and tack it up while you make your cut. It can be a little hard to "freehand" with if you really need a straight cut.

If you are cutting out for windows you could use a circular saw to make most of the cut then finish up with the rotary tool.

Bill Tolle

 

[Inspector507]

Freds,
Cut them separately, in my opinion. You can buy the expensive drywall router or go with a Roto-Zip. Same principal, but at a lower price.

 

[Maxfli]

Once the Cinder Block was up, we sealed everything with a combo of Latex paint and Portland cement. Fills all the holes in the Cinder block, Then sealed everything with 2 part epoxy paint. We used pet doors that had a plastic collar in the inside and outside the house with a plastic filler to fill the 2 x 6 stud wall. No wood!! My wife is into this dog stuff, and we did a lot of research. Everyone said avoid anything that will absorb moisture. Here is a pic of one kennel.

 

[Bird]

Freds, do you already have a router. Not long ago, I bought a bit for my Dremel tool for cutting drywall; a bit slow, but it works.

 

[Maxfli]

Used this new 2 part water clean up epoxy, paint store said in order to bond with the latex / portland undercoat this was best. I am sure there are better sealing systems out there, The price for this was in our budget. Last pic of a pet door.

 

[Evasive1]

The bits you are referring to are like this.

Guidepoint drywall bit

The whole bit is sharp except for the last approximate 1/4". This is the part that runs along the wood, metal or plastic as a guide for your cutting.

When sheetrocking we would just put up whole panels and then make the cutouts. (mark all the openings and outlets on the floor with height).

These are unbelievable time savers and make perfect cutouts.

I would put your FRP on and do it in all one cut for a clean and perfect cutout. The bit will not dig in the wood if you have the depth of the bit adjusted right and take your time.

 

[Freds]

Maxfli-That's a pretty nice setup you have. I never heard of cement board, I'll have to look into it for future projects. I used block filler and epoxy paint on the existing walls and it's held up perfectly (not the waterbased stuff as my arms will tell you. That stuff sticks!), just going for a different look and higher r-value in my case.

Bill-I'm trying to get away from any circ or sawzall cutting. I don't want to cut into any of my framework or have to layout holes, too many and too time consuming.

Bird-I have a Dremel that's about 30 years old and no router, but was wondering if a router would work.

Evasive1- THAT'S the answer I was hoping for. I never saw one of those tools up close (didn't even know what it was called until I saw it written a couple times) and was wondering how the bit worked and if it could dig into the material it was using as a guide. Slick setup.

More questions... Have you used one of these? Do you think one of those Roto-Zips would do the job or do I need something with more hp, like a router (not sure if they can use the same bit)? It seems like a lot of cutting as opposed to cutting out an outlet and then rest the tool for 10 minutes. I have 10-32x16 openings and 24-16x28 openings. The guy at H-D didn't seem to know if they had a duty cycle or constant working time. Is the website you provided a good place to purchase one plus the bits? I just called H-D and they said they start at $90, but the guy I was talking to seemed a bit confused that I would want to use one in this manner. Maybe they sell a different model/style.

Thanks a lot for any more input. I hope to get things going in a few weeks and again, TBN pulls through with its huge knowledge/experience base.

 

[MF1455v]

I put used my Roto-Zip when sheet rocking my house. It cut out every window, door and electrical outlet in the entire 2600 sq/ft. My arms were always the week link, giving up long before the Roto-Zip ever did. I still use it for other odd jobs around the house. It's a lot of tool for the money and I would have no problems buying another one.