drywall/router tool

   / drywall/router tool
  • Thread Starter
#11  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( More questions... )</font>

In answer to my own post, never mind.
I did a little search on roto-zips and the site you provided, Duane, definitely has good prices.
Gotta go and place my order now. I know it will be a lot of use for the little bugger and I'll try to do a follow up. This will be a good test.
 
   / drywall/router tool #12  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Do you think one of those Roto-Zips would do the job or do I need something with more hp )</font>

No you do not need a bigger horsepower unit.

We used those Roto-Zips for everything you can think of that needed a controlled cut. We used them to cut the sheathing out for the windows (1/2" osb), for cutting out sink bases in countertops (3/4" plywood and Formica) and of course sheetrock. You can buy cutting bits too that cut on contact, great for cutting out sink bases through Formica. Just lay down masking tape, draw your cutout on that. The masking tape prevents burring or splintering giving a clean cut.

The only bad thing is do not force the blades because they will break, although a single blade will last a surprisingly long time.
 
   / drywall/router tool #13  
OK guys, Freds is all set.

I have a couple questions...
When you're using a Roto-Zip or other powered cutter, do I assume correctly that you doing the cuts on the drywall before installation?

How much dust does it generate?

I've been cutting/hanging drywall and just use a utility knife for doing my cuts (score the board, pop and cut paper from the back). Is a powered cutter going to do it faster? How hard is it to get a straight edge?

BTW, according to this instruction sheet , the FRP should be cut prior to installation.
 
   / drywall/router tool #14  
bczoom, the roto-zip is used for cut-outs such as windows, doors and electrical outlets. For cutting a board to length it is still best to use the utility knife and straight edge.
 
   / drywall/router tool #15  
Thanks Bowhunter.

I still use the utility knife for ele. boxes, windows... Maybe it's time to switch.
Does the roto-zip generate a lot of dust?
 
   / drywall/router tool #16  
Just remember, you always have a warranty and if it dies, have the company send you a new one. What better way to test the warranty then to work a tool hard right from the start. If it makes it thru and you retire it to light duty the rest of its life you will be happy, if it dies during the break in period you get a new one and you are happy. Seems like a win/win. Enjoy
 
   / drywall/router tool #17  
Yes, is does generate at lot of dust. Other the other hand it is fast. The drywall bits have a guide point which keeps it from cutting into wall studs and electrical boxes. With electical boxes you just need to know where the center of the box is with the sheet rock already screwed in place. Push the bit through the sheet rock, cut over till you bump the inside of the box, jump the box, then follow around the outside of the box.

It takes longer to explain how to cut out a box than it does to make the cut.
 
   / drywall/router tool #18  
<font color="blue"> Does the roto-zip generate a lot of dust? </font>
Yes it does.
I just finished a drywall project. Used a Roto-Zip type cutter. It did a great job. The dust approached the amount created by sanding. Solved most of the dust problems by keeping a shop vacuum running next to the cutter while cutting.
 
   / drywall/router tool #19  
Thanks MF1455 & Ron,

Well, call me old school but I think I'll stick with a knife to wrap up my current project. I just finished one room and only need to hang about 5 more sheets to finish the other.

Like Robert_in_NY noted, drywall dust eats power tools. Mrs. Zoom would not be happy if I killed the (her?) roto-zip. Might as well save it for her projects.

I am also going to use one of those sanders that pulls the dust into a water bucket to keep the dust down.
 
   / drywall/router tool #20  
"If you need a precise cut you can make a jig from some pieces of lumber and tack it up while you make your cut. It can be a little hard to "freehand" with if you really need a straight cut."

I nominate that as the: Roto-Zip Understatement Of The Year! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
My freehand-ing ended up looking like I used a "Spirograph". /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
 

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