Dual Voltage MIG Welders (Everlast?

[Luke'sScreenName]

So I want to upgrade my Hobart 140 to a new (sub $1000) 220V machine. I find that too frequently I am pushing or exceeding the capabilities of it. I'm mostly welding farm equipment.

I am considering a dual voltage unit... Is there any disadvantage to these?

Given the praise on TBN I looked at the Everlast site. I was intrigued by the multi function machines. I am a novice MIG welder but might also like to try out stick welding. Everlast makes two units; the Power i-MIG 200 and the PowerMTS 200. Is there a disadvantage to these combo units? Is there any difference between theses machines other than the MTS is TIG capable?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Shield Arc]

I got to play with member here roadhunter's Everlast i-MIG 140E. It is a 120-volt only machine. It was pretty impressive for a 120-volt welder. The dual voltage is the way to go, if you have to weld 3/8-inch of thicker material you can plug into 220-volt.

 

[GPintheMitten]

I have the I MIG 200. I don't know if there are disadvantages, but there are advantages. I power it with 220 volts at home in the shop and usually run MIG. But I ran out shielding gas so I switched to stick.

Then I took it to the cabin and ran it on 110v.

This unit can also weld aluminum with an optional torch.

 

[IslandTractor]

You could also get a used Miller Passport for under $1000. Very good dual voltage and portable machine. It has been replaced by the Millermatic 200 but that costs closer to $2K.

 

[hutchman]

I have a Hobart 140 too. Until I got into tractors I just welded small things with shielding gas. The penetration on these machines isn't good enough for some tractor work ... if you ditch the gas and go with flux core you can weld 3/16" and 1/4" OK. I still use it some for medium things as I like the control and ease of starts better than stick. But when I really want to get good penetration I turn to stick and to burn stuff like 7018 you need 220V. You already have the Handler 140 that's 120V. If I were you I'd skip dual voltage (which you pay for) and get the biggest 220V machine in your budget.

 

[Clay45]

If I were you I'd skip dual voltage (which you pay for) and get the biggest 220V machine in your budget.

This is good advice. The HH190 I purchased was well within your budget.
Refurbished Hobart Welders & Plasma Cutters - Hobart Welding Products If they are out of stock of one you want they offer an option to be notified when they become available again. That's how I obtained the HH190.

 

[Big Barn]

This is good advice. The HH190 I purchased was well within your budget. Refurbished Hobart Welders & Plasma Cutters - Hobart Welding Products If they are out of stock of one you want they offer an option to be notified when they become available again. That's how I obtained the HH190.

I can also recommend the HH 190. The father of one one of my daughter's classmates sold me his unused welder cheap.

It welded really nice. I replaced the light battery jumper cable type work (ground ) clamp with a heavier one though.

At first I thought the gun looked a little cheesy, but it was actually light and well balanced.

Adding a spool gun to it was cost prohibitive, so I ended up giving it to a good friend who was looking for one.

Terry

 

[IslandTractor]

I have a Hobart 140 too. Until I got into tractors I just welded small things with shielding gas. The penetration on these machines isn't good enough for some tractor work ... if you ditch the gas and go with flux core you can weld 3/16" and 1/4" OK. I still use it some for medium things as I like the control and ease of starts better than stick. But when I really want to get good penetration I turn to stick and to burn stuff like 7018 you need 220V. You already have the Handler 140 that's 120V. If I were you I'd skip dual voltage (which you pay for) and get the biggest 220V machine in your budget.

If you are working primarily in a shop with 220 or have a generator that puts out adequate 220 I would agree that dual voltage is unnecessary and expensive. However there are a LOT of small welding jobs that end up being remote from a 220v source and having the 110v flexibility, especially with an inverter, is great. I had a Miller Passport and did most welding on 1/4" or less and really didn't need 220 much at all. For working on 10 gauge or smaller it was much more convenient to just run an extension cord to a domestic wall socket.

 

[yomax4]

Both the Thermal Arc / Tweco Fabricator 211i and that new Lincoln are both dual voltage and under 1K. Both digital read out. Fabricator has power factor correction and runs great on an extension cord. Tough to do with most 115v units. Plus it stick welds and DC Tig too. Lincoln does too. Spool gun for either is $250.00 if you like spool guns. Lincoln takes a 10# spool, TA takes up to a 44#. Check it out.

 

[dragoneggs]

This is good advice. The HH190 I purchased was well within your budget.
Refurbished Hobart Welders & Plasma Cutters - Hobart Welding Products If they are out of stock of one you want they offer an option to be notified when they become available again. That's how I obtained the HH190.

With due respect to hutchman, I wouldn't summarily advise to get a 220v only machine. This depends on the user's needs, location, portability. I know I enjoy the ability to weld 110v when that is all that is available. What do you do if you only have a 220v machine and no 220v available? Maybe that is never the case... that is the question.