Ductless Mini Split Wiring

   / Ductless Mini Split Wiring
  • Thread Starter
#11  
I was talking about power to the compressor.


The wire you're talking about that goes to the wall unit is 14/4

I'm not 100% on this, but I believe that the power for the wall unit comes from the compressor and is included and runs with the "line set" from the compressor to the wall unit(s). Might even be low voltage DC with the "modulating" variable speed fan.
I'm going to install one and am doing the wiring (for the whole addition) this fri., well my cousin is. He's an electrician and told me that for the past 10 years he's only supplied power to the compressor.:confused3:
I'm looking at Mitsu - LG - and another I don't remember.
 
   / Ductless Mini Split Wiring #13  
I've got an 18,000 BTU LG mini-split. The power comes from a 25 amp circuit breaker in the main panel out to the outside unit (compressor) via it's own conduit. On the inside unit, the control wire (14/4) and the copper lines and the drain line come thru the wall in the same conduit. The control wires attach to the compressor near the power lines. There is a single access panel that covers both the power and control cables.

Hope this helps.
 
   / Ductless Mini Split Wiring
  • Thread Starter
#14  
I bought an LG 24,000 BTU unit today with two 12,000 BTU wall units. I'll do all of the installation but I will leave the hooking up of the line sets at the compressor to an HVAC guy. You can't use a normal flaring tool as they aren't rated for R410. Also I'd like him to pressure test the line and then pull a vacuum on it to purge the air from the lines.





I've got an 18,000 BTU LG mini-split. The power comes from a 25 amp circuit breaker in the main panel out to the outside unit (compressor) via it's own conduit. On the inside unit, the control wire (14/4) and the copper lines and the drain line come thru the wall in the same conduit. The control wires attach to the compressor near the power lines. There is a single access panel that covers both the power and control cables.

Hope this helps.
 
   / Ductless Mini Split Wiring #15  
The mini-splits require a really low vacuum for some reason and I've heard A/C guys who don't deal with mini-splits often will not go as low as they need to. The installation manual will specify what the vacuum reading is and for how long. If I remember right it's down around 300 microns. Be sure they follow the installation manual.
 
   / Ductless Mini Split Wiring #16  
I purchased a Pioneer 1.5 ton unit back in August 2015. It has been running flawlessly so far. They are really nice "cheaper" units. I believe they are an off brand but get lots of good reviews on Amazon.
 
   / Ductless Mini Split Wiring #17  
I bought an LG 24,000 BTU unit today with two 12,000 BTU wall units.

Hey Bobcat, do you mind telling us what you paid for the equipment? I'm looking at the same (LG) set up and trying to justify what they want installed.
 
   / Ductless Mini Split Wiring
  • Thread Starter
#18  
It came to about $3,300.00 with the line sets, drain lines, power lines for the wall units, 36" wall mount for the compressor, 13 feet of speedi channel and a 30 amp box for outside.
 
   / Ductless Mini Split Wiring #20  
In reading through this thread it is apparent the OP is not really knowledgeable enough in either electrical work or refrigeration work to tackle this project as DIY W/O a lot of technical advice. Hope you can separate the wheat from the chaff of all the advice given here or that he has some good friends in those trades.

In my early life as an AC&R technician we would not come into a partially assembled system and complete it. No way to warrant the work ethically. Some guys would go tackle it on their own W/O the bosses blessing. They would virtually reinstall the system to fix all the things done wrong. Those homeowners wound up paying more in the end than if they would have contracted the project to start with. Sears sold home units to the DIY community that had pre-charged lines and pre-assembled electrical harnesses. Should be easy for anyone who can read to install; Murphy's law prevailed; failures were still common and Sears contracted for us to go fix the screw-ups and they ate the cost.

Today I am retired, still have all my equipment, and planning a remote heat pump for my house. Just had a new furnace installed and had the coil installed for the future. I have discussed doing part of the work my self with 3 contractors, they all said "forget it" we will not be involved in something we cannot warrant. All three stated that it was very difficult to get warranty replacements from manufacturers when they are called out on a service call for a failure. Imagine the run around a home owner would get. End of story I will do the concrete slab and the rack to mount the refrig lines and electrical conduit on.

Since HF now sells vacuum pumps, leak detectors and gauges for a couple hundred bucks, every body is now an expert refrigeration technician. Only their 2 stage vacuum pump will get the 5 micron vacuum required to evacuate and dry out a system. It takes a special gauge to read down to 5 microns. (expensive) Their gauges have special connectors on the hoses unique to the auto AC stems and the pressure/temp conversions is probably not for the same refrigerant either.

Refrigeration 101, Ron
 

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