Rims Dumb Question - How Change Tires/Rims?

[lipchili]

Dumb Question - Trick to Change Tires/Rims?

I have a JD 3320 currently with R4's, and found an almost new set of the proper sized R1's (rims and tires) on Craigslist.

Is it difficult to replace myself? I've been looking all over trying to find a youtube video or anything that would provide instruction on changing wheels/rims/tires but not having any luck. Is it simply a matter of bolting on the new rims? What about spacers, etc.? I don't want to do anything to screw up my tractor, but I really don't know anything about this type of work.

 

[showcattle]

Are the tires loaded? That makes it more difficult, but is still manageable. Don't try to muscle the tires. If the tires are loaded, don't let them fall over. If one starts to fall, let it go and don't try to stop it. When you jack up the tractor, you just barely want the tire off the ground. Roll new tire in place, adjust height of tractor as necessary.

 

[bspeedy]

Here's how I do it:

Front:
Lift front of tractor with loader (if so equipped).
Support axle with jack stands.
Change wheels - no more difficult than car wheels / tires.

Rear:
Lift rear of tractor with floor jack under draw bar.
Support rear axle with jack stands or blocks. Allow for some up / down movement.
Remove one wheel / tire. As stated above, keep bottom of tire close to the ground and just roll it away.
Move new wheel / tire to tractor. Try to line up lug bolt holes. Jockey wheel / tire around as needed to align bolt holes.
Lower jack to get lip of rim over lip of hub on tractor. Try to start top lug bolt. Start as many bolts as you can.
With lip of rim over lip of hub and bolts started, slowly jack tractor until rim is hanging on hub. Install and torque bolts.

Having a helper is nice, but I've mounted very heavy tires / wheels solo. I hope this description is clear.

 

[newbury]

Here's how I do it:<snip>
Rear:
Lift rear of tractor with floor jack under draw bar.
Support rear axle with jack stands or blocks. Allow for some up / down movement.
Remove one wheel / tire. As stated above, keep bottom of tire close to the ground and just roll it away.
Move new wheel / tire to tractor. Try to line up lug bolt holes. Jockey wheel / tire around as needed to align bolt holes.
Lower jack to get lip of rim over lip of hub on tractor. Try to start top lug bolt. Start as many bolts as you can.
With lip of rim over lip of hub and bolts started, slowly jack tractor until rim is hanging on hub. Install and torque bolts.
<snip>

With one loaded rear weighing 650 lbs I followed that procedure but used a farm jack hooked under the rim to assist with a little lifting and orientation of the holes.

 

[bspeedy]

With one loaded rear weighing 650 lbs I followed that procedure but used a farm jack hooked under the rim to assist with a little lifting and orientation of the holes.

That's a pretty good idea, newbury. I've done it a couple of times with freshly painted rims (yeah - I'm that guy) and was concerned about scratches. I think I make things hard on myself sometimes...

 

[ModMech]

Re: Dumb Question - Trick to Change Tires/Rims?

Is it difficult to replace myself?..... Is it simply a matter of bolting on the new rims? What about spacers, etc.? I don't want to do anything to screw up my tractor, but I really don't know anything about this type of work.

Essentially YES, unless they are loaded as others have pointed out, then the fun begins

 

[Xfaxman]

Also R1 is a directional tread, look for the direction of rotation arrow on the sidewall.

 

[4570Man]

Re: Dumb Question - Trick to Change Tires/Rims?

It's not too bad since you have the tires already mounted on rims. Fronts are a piece of cake. I've removed a loaded rear once. I don't remember exactly how I did it, but it must not have been too bad or I'd remember. I do remember no other equipment was involved which would be my current approach.

 

[clemsonfor]

That's a pretty small tractor and the rear is not that big right? Even loaded it should not be that difficult. ..just keep it upright and don't let it lean. Roll it to the side of the axle and lower jack till you can just walk it on the studs or put the studs in depending on the setup. Get them all started then tighten them down in a star pattern.

 

[blackrams]

OK, without starting another dumb question thread, I'm going to ask.

My tractor (Ford 1210) has turf tires. I've owned it since 1988. Still has the original tires and will need replacing soon. Weather cracking is the biggest reason. Regardless, I keep reading about the different R1 through R4 tires. I looked for the definitions but haven't found them for what R? means. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated. I hate looking like a dummy when I visit my local tire shop.

 

[bspeedy]

r1 r4 tires - Google Search

R1 = ag tires
R4 = industrial tires
R3 = turf tires

 

[Xfaxman]

We know that, but what does the R stand for?

I searched, but didn't find the answer.

 

[fried1765]

OK, without starting another dumb question thread, I'm going to ask.

My tractor (Ford 1210) has turf tires. I've owned it since 1988. Still has the original tires and will need replacing soon. Weather cracking is the biggest reason. Regardless, I keep reading about the different R1 through R4 tires. I looked for the definitions but haven't found them for what R? means. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated. I hate looking like a dummy when I visit my local tire shop.

For tractor tires,.... "R" stands for "radial design" ....per...... Tractor.com
Bias ply tires are usually less expensive, but are not widely used.

 

[oosik]

Well - having futzed with the loaded rears on my Ford 1700 - MANY years ago and almost "blown a nut". I know enough to get professional assistance for the Rimguard loaded rears on my M6040. Each tire has 775# of Rimguard plus the weight of the tire and rim. Talk about your "smashing" situation.............

 

[blackrams]

For tractor tires,.... "R" stands for "radial design" ....per...... Tractor.com
Bias ply tires are usually less expensive, but are not widely used.

Thanks, I sincerely appreciate the information and response. :drink:

 

[Xfaxman]

For tractor tires,.... "R" stands for "radial design" ....per...... Tractor.com
Bias ply tires are usually less expensive, but are not widely used.

That is true if the R is in the size molded on the sidewall of any tire for a car, truck or tractor.

Bias ply tires use a "dash" in the size.

But what does the R in the tread style stand for?

 

[oosik]

"But what does the R in the tread style stand for?"

Racing, my man- undoubedly - RACING

 

[Xfaxman]

That is better than my first thought, Round

 

[fried1765]

That is true if the R is in the size molded on the sidewall of any tire for a car, truck or tractor.

Bias ply tires use a "dash" in the size.

But what does the R in the tread style stand for?

Check out ...tractor.com
They say that "R" stands for "radial design", as it also does in passenger/LT tires.

For tractor tire tread style:

number 1..... as in "R-1" = Agricultural tread
number 3..... as in "R-3" = Turf tread
number 4..... as in "R-4" = Industrial tread

The letter "R" designates "radial design" only, and has NOTHING to do with tread style.
As above, the number following the letter defines the tread style.

 

[Xfaxman]

We are talking about two different "R"s.

My R 4 tires are not radial, they are Bias Ply, note the dash after 14:

------------------------------------------

number 1..... as in "R-1" = Agricultural tread
number 3..... as in "R-3" = Turf tread
number 4..... as in "R-4" = Industrial tread

The letter "R" designates "radial design" only, and has NOTHING to do with tread style.
As above, the number following the letter defines the tread style.

The question is why that letter is R? What does that R in front of the number stand for?