Dumb Question-Hydraulic Fluid

Sherminator · Sep 10, 2012

Ok. Like I said in my first post, I'm a super newbie. LS 4041H for two weeks and I am working the heck out of it. Just turned 23 hours. New grapple bucket and all. Now for the dumb question. How do you check the hydraulic fluid. Is it the dip stick at the rear end or am I missing something. Got the oil down, but I am sure I need some hydraulic fluid because of the grapple and a little shake when turning.

So far this is the cats meow for me. Oh by the way I am clearing 6 acres of land by myself with the always present advise from my wife.

Now for a funny: I was washing the Blue Beast and I asked my neighbor what shouldn't get wet on my tractor. He said "your wife". Guess that sums it up.

Sherminator

TedLaRue · Sep 10, 2012

Your neighbor is pretty quick-witted...Guess that sums it up.

Yes, it's the dip stick "at the rear end". And owner's manual would have that information if you have one. If you don't, you can probably get a PDF of it online (probably for free).

Not sure why you'd be down hydraulic fluid after only 23 hours unless it was filled to "full" before you added attachments, and then you needed more fluid to fill the cylinders in the attachments.

The dip stick is probably marked for "cold", or maybe "hot", but temperature matters.

Also, be aware that a clogged hydraulic strainer can cause "jerkiness" in the movement in your attachments. A damaged hydraulic cylinder could cause a seal to deteriorate and clog the strainer. That happened to me with a new backhoe.

Sherminator · Sep 10, 2012

Thanks Ted. I checked that "dip stick" while it was cool and the fluid was just touching the bottom of the stick. I'm sure with the grapple cylinder and extra hoses I should be down a gallon or maybe a little less. What you think?

Sherminator

Gary Fowler · Sep 11, 2012

Add oil to meet middle of stick markings. The stick should have at minimum two lines, one for low and one for full. I like to keep them in middle of the markings. Dont overfill any oil reservoir on any equipment as it will cause blown seals or at minimum just push it out of the implement at some point.

smartens · Sep 15, 2012

Can anyone tell me where the port is to add hydraulic fluid on a 2001 New Holland TL?

LittleBlueTractor · Sep 17, 2012

smartens said:
Can anyone tell me where the port is to add hydraulic fluid on a 2001 New Holland TL?

You might have better luck posting your question up in the New Holland forum. BUT, as you asked here I decided to look through my pics to if I could show you where it is on some of the LS models. Didn't have a real good shot, but you can see the knob for the hydraulic fluid dipstick through the 3-point linkage in this shot:

DwightD123 · Apr 29, 2013

Here's one. I drained my hydro fluid and changed the filter. Do I need towed the lines? I didn't shut any valves to the FEL Like I have heard my buddies do when they drain their hydro fluid?

GManBart · Apr 30, 2013

DwightD123 said:
Here's one. I drained my hydro fluid and changed the filter. Do I need towed the lines? I didn't shut any valves to the FEL Like I have heard my buddies do when they drain their hydro fluid?

I'm guessing you meant to bleed the lines, right? I think if you start the tractor, and cycle all of the hydraulic controls (loader and three point), then check fluid level, and top off, you'll be fine.

DwightD123 · Apr 30, 2013

Yes. Dang autocorrect got me. Ok so no damage by cycling that stuff with the air in the lines?

boomer632 · Apr 30, 2013

I wouldnt run the pump dry. Just make sure all of your bucket and lift cylinders rods are retracted into their housings and the 3 point arms are down. That will get 99% of oil out. Make sure you drain ALL the plugs. There is more than 1.

DwightD123 · May 2, 2013

Boomer, yeah. I got all 3. So is there a way of not running it dry. Meaning this- I will fill it before I run the tractor but can't think of anything else that would get the air out until I cycle the cylinders and let it self bleed unless there are bleed valves.
So has anyone seen these shutoff levers to cut the hydro lines to the FEL on an LS? My buddies have different tractors that mentioned these shutoff valves.

boomer632 · May 2, 2013

Oh.. I get your question now.. I thought you were trying to get the lines and cylinders completly empty prior to filling with new fluid.

Cycling the hydraulics is the proper way to get the ari out of the system. Youll bareley even notice it when you move the joystick. When I changed mine, only had a couple small hiccups when lifting loader and that was it.. all air out.

DwightD123 · May 4, 2013

Great thanks. My first time changing it. Obviously.

stognermd · Mar 14, 2014

BOOMER, I HAVE AN LS 3010 4WD WITH FEL. THE FEL HAS STOPPED LIFTING AS HIGH, EVEN UNLOADED, AS IT ONCE DID. SHOULD I JUST ADD MORE HYDRAULIC FLUID?HE THE FLUID FILL POINT AT THE BACK TO THE TRACTOR (BEHIND THE SEAT ON RIGHT (LOST MY MANUAL)? I AM ASKING YOU BECAUSE IT SOUNDS LIKE YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING!!!!!

boomer632 · Mar 14, 2014

If the oil level is within the lines on the dipstick, adding oil won't help. If oil level is full I suspect there is something else going on. You shouldn't be low on oil if it was filled properly. If its low, there is a leak somewhere and most likely would have noticed it or smelled it. Hydraulic oil in these tractors, if there are no leaks should not have to be "topped off" from time to time. Did you just change the oil?

stognermd · Mar 14, 2014

NO, NO CHANGE. IS THE HYDRAULIC FLUID FILL POINT BEHIND SEAT ON RIGHT?

boomer632 · Mar 15, 2014

Not sure on your model but if I were to guess.. Look down near PTO shaft..just to the right of it. Might be a little white paint on it.

heitjer · Apr 20, 2014

boomer632 said:
Make sure you drain ALL the plugs. There is more than 1.

Just FYI - I changed the hydraulic fluid yesterday and drained all three plugs. I had to re-tap each one which I found odd. I had to buy a M20-1.5 tap and dye for it.

Underdog57 · Apr 20, 2014

heitjer said:
Just FYI - I changed the hydraulic fluid yesterday and drained all three plugs. I had to re-tap each one which I found odd. I had to buy a M20-1.5 tap and dye for it.

Question: My trans has 2 big drain plugs with white paint on them and 1 recessed plug with no white paint on it. Wouldn't it be enough to just remove the 2 white plugs to drain? Is the other plug the one that is magnetic? I changed just the filters at my 50 hr service. Has any one else had to re-tap the threads on the drain plugs? Sounds a little scary if you had to re-tap all 3 plugs.