Dumb question time - pasture grass

[farmgirl19]

There are some varieties of ryegrass that should do well in your area. You might consider mixing it with some clover seed too. You would have to mow some, but you might also attract some wildlife that would come in and feed on it. That would be a bonus for many.

I have not seen a fescue that I would call pretty, but it might just be the area that I am in, and the varieties that will grow here.

 

[DaNag]

You might consider mixing it with some clover seed too. You would have to mow some, but you might also attract some wildlife that would come in and feed on it. That would be a bonus for many.

Even with the bare dirt/weeds for the last few months, we've seen a bear, several bobcats, a fox, countless deer and rabbits, bald eagles, owls, hawks and other furry/feathered friends a plenty.

We don't have a critter shortage 'round these parts...

 

[Larry Caldwell]

The problem with tall fescue is a fungus endophyte that is transmitted in the seed. You can buy endophyte-free fescue seed. Once a pasture is seeded with endophyte-free fescue, it will stay that way. No abortions, liver cysts, fat necrosis, hoof disease or any other endophyte caused disease.

The Fescue Endophyte Story

 

[hslogger]

This is a good thread and interesting to see the geographic differences. I am in Western Oregon, and in the same weather zone as yourself. I suspect your soils are less clay than mine.That said, I have top soil and and the fact that you had alders cleared indicates some richness as well as acid. First things first in my mind. SOIL SAMPLE. Take a bag small bag of dirt with shoveled dirt from three locations. Take it your local Soils and Water Conservation District, or call them and see who will read the soil content for you. Likely you will need to lime your ground. The seed is the cheapest component of the project. Lime, seed, then fertiilzer. Given you have three acres, you would be best to have the local Chemical guys like Wilbur Ellis or Crop Production Service or whoever is in your region, apply the lime with their rig. It is hard to do with out the right gear. Endophyte free seed as mentioned is important. You can whirly gig the whole thing yourself, drag a harrow over it , go back and whirly gig the fertiziler too. A good local mix from your local mill is what the locals use and should be what you want. Don't go looking for some exotic out of the region mix.

 

[whistlepig]

Clover is good. Our pasture has some of red clover in it. Our pastures are mostly fescue and does has some timothy in it also. Our horses like the timothy the best. That gets eaten first.

 

[DaNag]

Good points...the fescue in the seed mix is indeed, endophyte-free.

RE a soils sample - also recommended by our conservation district, but when the gal came out to our place she was 99% sure what we would find as she'd done tons in our area. As you mentioned - acidic soils.

Unfortunately, it's simply not in the cards for me to deal with lime this year - no budget or time. Time because, the third of three huge burn piles will be lit up next week (burn ban in effect until end of the month), with the ashes spread about once done. Couldn't do a proper soils sample until after that, and even if I had the funds to apply lime - I'm already pushing it for getting the seed down. Ideally, with the light fall rains we've been having for the last couple of weeks it should be happening right now.

On the bright side, the ashes from last spring's burns and the upcoming one will help with the acidity. While not as ideal as a soils test and proper lime application, the gal who visited me from the conservation district indicated chances are good I'll see decent grass growth. Worst case scenario if the grass doesn't come in well - I'll be out about $150 for seed, and can try again next year when funds will be available for proper soil conditioning. Given the known outcome if I do nothing, I'll risk the seed money.

 

[whistlepig]

That's a start. Trying something will be a lot better than doing nothing at all. And I think you may be surprised by the good results. I have started a pasture on a budget. A little money went a long way for me.

 

[DaNag]

Well...another monkey wrench thrown into the mix. Good ol' Mother Nature. Can I get some more free advice?

Weeds are gone, area to be seeded is raked and cleared of large rocks/sticks pretty well. However, we've been hit with constant light to moderate rain for the last week, making the area far too muddy to run the tractor across without rutting it up. While the weatherman is not to be trusted, there's no clear sign things will improve enough in the next couple of weeks. If so, at this point in the year there's a distinct possibility it won't dry up sufficiently to drive over in time to seed.

I'll obviously hold out for a little bit just in case we get several days of sun/wind...but I'm thinking anything beyond middle of October is getting risky. Spreading seed is not a problem, I can certainly walk across the area - as of now. However, what kind of results can I expect if I can't drag something across it to cover them up slightly? Complete waste of seed, or just significantly reduced germination?

If it wouldn't be a complete waste, I'd be inclined to toss out the seed. The thought being, anything significant coming up is better than the weeds which will surely arrive.

 

[farmgirl19]

You can walk and broadcast ryegrass and get good germination and growth. You can walk and broadcast oats and wheat too, but if you do not drag or run a disc, you will get less percentage of germination. I think you will still get enough to make it worth trying, if you already have the seed. Maybe your soil is such, that the rain will disturb it enough to help the seeds.

I don't disc or drag my ryegrass, but just broadcast it, overseeding whatever is in the pasture(s).

 

[Beltman60]

the seed needs some compaction with the soil
also with broadcasting seed you have a good chance of birds eating your seed :mur:

I have broadcasted seed in Jan-Feb and ran a harrow over my field when the ground was just starting to thaw
I try to do it before a good size snow and have gotten some great results
the harrow knocks the seed just under the ground surface and early enough to get a couple of freeze cycles to get some compaction then when it warms up it germinates the seed

I think they call it a poor man's planting