Dumb question: Why do you need Ballast?

[Reg]

When I first read on TBN that a ballast takes weight off the front wheels, I thought you guys were all wet. Then I employed thinking that a physics professor told me one time:

In times of doubt where it is a close call, take the objects involved and make them extremely large, extremely small, extremely heavy, extremely light, extremely fast, and extremely slow, and you will be surprised how quickly the truth will be revealed.

The toy car example given earlier is an excellent example of this type of thought experiment.

My bush hog is my heaviest ballast, but just last week, I moved the heaviest loads I ever attempted with my BX. I knew I would prefer to use the loader, but that the 3pt hitch is the stronger and safer lifting means. So, I put on my carry-all, backed into a long pallet, and then I stacked cement blocks on the pallet near the very back edge. I tied the blocks on tight, and adjusted the chains for very little 3ph swing. That way, I had adequate ballast for the loader, but an easy and quick means to switch to using the carry all.

The ROPS was on and tight, the seat belt was on and tight, my hard hat was on and tight. All worked really well.

All except it isn't relevant.
It is the mind set that leads people to the stupid extremes that we see published here as "Accidents".

Seriously, if you are overloading your front end loader SO MUCH that you need to relieve the front tires and axle you are almost certainly headed for an entry in the accident statistics column.
BTW, do you guys with heavy ballast boxes ever make a tiny "mistake" and drop the ballast box when you have an overloaded bucket ?
Dramatic, ain't it ?

I had a stump that I couldn't actually "lift".
I got enough of it into the bucket to get it's center of mass behind the front of the tooth bar and could curl the bucket, but couldn't raise it.
I extended the hoe all the way straight backwards and that was just enough to get me sufficient clearance to get it off into the woods.
The front axle can take that (mine can) the front tires can take that (at least, mine DID).

If you have tractors with front end loaders that can lift more than the (fragile ?) front axle and front tires can take - different problem, different solution.
Hint/clue it ain't ballast behind the rear wheels.
(whisper - trade it)

 

[oldballs]

I decided on the Kubota ballast box. Now that I've used it with some heavy lifting using pallet forks (bucket off) in tight spaces, I found it a necessary item. And since it is so much related to safety, I figure it is probably the most important purchase of all the attachments.

 

[Bedlam]

Having ballast to offset overloaded FEL bucket weight is not what I meant. Its all about balance. And as others have said ballast takes some weight off the front axle and wheels. Thats a good thing in my book.
And no, I can pick up a loaded bucket and without ballast teeter it back and forth. I have to use 4 wheel drive to get any traction.
If a ballast box can give me enough traction in 2 wheel drive all the better less wear and tear on the front axle.Thats a good thing.
I'm sorry but this is how I've done it for 30 years ..

 

[Baby Grand]

I had a stump that I couldn't actually "lift".
I got enough of it into the bucket to get it's center of mass behind the front of the tooth bar and could curl the bucket, but couldn't raise it.
I extended the hoe all the way straight backwards and that was just enough to get me sufficient clearance to get it off into the woods.
The front axle can take that (mine can) the front tires can take that (at least, mine DID).

If you have tractors with front end loaders that can lift more than the (fragile ?) front axle and front tires can take - different problem, different solution.
Hint/clue it ain't ballast behind the rear wheels.
(whisper - trade it)

I would consider the backhoe, extended all the way backwards, as a considerable amount ballast far aft of the rear axle (which is what some of us have been recommending for heavy FEL work) - so I don't understand your conclusion about why you would want to trade your tractor.

-Jim

 

[tulenutn2o]

I don't know how you get to that conclusion.
It allows (ENCOURAGES ?) a bigger load on the front axle by providing stability.
It is a balancing load behind the front axle to balance the FEL's load in front of the front axle.

Net result is more load on the front axle.

Not to step on any toes here, but: Volume of bucket and material density determine ultimate load weight; ballasting out back does serve to lighten load on front axle( I have to ballast my truck when using snow plow for same reason). Although some operators will tend to use the loader to pick up whatever they can while keeping wheels on the ground, majority are just after more stability doing normal chores in awkward situations. That being said, loading the tires is the least stress on the tractor as a whole(for stability-while staying within load range of loader and front-end) due to the weight being "un-sprung" weight. While it is true that un-sprung weight does require more HP to move, it is easier on bearings and such that would otherwise be supporting an increased load if weight was being carried on the 3pt.. Rear wheel weights do the same as loaded tires, of course. Operators common sense should be used at all times.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Well the balancing load is behind the rear axle. If you take a toy car (I just happen to have one on my desk and push down on it's rear bumper behind the rear axle the front wheels come up into the air. The weight is lifted off the front axle. Same principle with the three point hitch weight I believe.

That experiment is not in the range of interest.
IOW You won't get enough weight far enough back on a tractor to get the front wheels significantly unloaded when the FEL is at/near to overload.

Enjoy your day with your toy car on your (toy ?) desk.

Well, both of these is correct and actually do not contradict each other in the least. Putting a heavy counterweight on can allow you to abuse the front axle very effectively with a strong loader. A strong loader will enable you to put the entire weight of the load, tractor and counterweight on the front axle. ... But if you look at what the loader will static lift with the rears staying on the ground with no counterweight it is still appreciable. Then put on a counterweight that makes the front kinda light with unladen bucket and then go work with loads ranging around that appreciable #. You will do so with good safety and lower front loading than you would otherwise see.
larry