Dump Cart Ideas and Pics

banditbooker · Mar 16, 2013

Heres a link to my thread on my dump cart. Maybe it'll give you some ideas, maybe not. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/211560-my-dump-cart.html If I was going to do it all over again, I would have put bigger tires on, but it looked good on paper at the time. I have since, put a jack on it. Even though the tires look a little small, it's still holding up great. That's many loads of top soil loaded heaping full and also a few loads of logs. It has stake pockets on it so I can take all the sides off or just the front and tail gate which makes it nice for hauling logs up to 12 feet long. The hydraulic dump is by far my favorite part about it, I probably could have went with a shorter cylinder at the time, but the 70 degrees of dump angle I get assures me nothing gets stuck while dumping. haha Hope this helps, any questions, feel free to ask.

BukitCase · Mar 16, 2013

Nyen0004, looks like your question "if you take a small diameter cylinder and a larger diameter cylinder will the larger one or the smaller one lift more weight?" fell thru the cracks...

Ignoring the small effects like friction, etc, the bigger the cylinder diameter the more push. You're right about the larger one being slower, assuming the flow and pressure capability of the pump remains constant -

Mainly, the amount of push is directly proportional to the surface area of the cylinder's piston, which is same as cylinder diameter - The formula is Pi x radius squared x system pressure - so if you do the math, a 3" cylinder at 2000 psi will push 14,137 pounds - a 4" cylinder would push 25,132 pounds.

At first glance, it may look like I screwed up the math - how could only 1" larger cylinder have that much more push?

Keep in mind that the formula includes "squaring" - so this isn't a linear function. It only takes 1.414 times the diameter to equal TWICE the area, and this (along with pressure) is what determines the power.

Another factor in cycle time - remember that the RETRACT speed of a cylinder will be FASTER, due to the decreased volume of oil caused by the displacement of the ROD on the other side of the piston - To figure this, you need to calculate the piston area, then calculate the ROD area and subtract rod area from piston area - (Piston area MINUS rod area) divided by (Piston area) will give you the speed ratio between "push" and "pull".

The FORCE difference between "push" and "pull" will also have that same ratio, since "pull" has the same smaller surface area to work with.

Hope this helps... Steve

nyen0004 · Mar 16, 2013

banditbooker, Looks awesome, I have a couple questions for yah. First, what size is the trailer? Second what size cylinder did you use, and last your auxilary hydraulics, is that a JD part or a custom made part? If custom where did you hook up the hydraulic feed? Did you use the loader connections? How much PSI is your tractor Hyrdaulics?

Leejohn · Mar 16, 2013

Nyen0004,
I forgot to find out the size of my trailer today, well do tomorrow. Here is a link that well heip you out.

https://www.surpluscenter.com/techhelp.asp?catname=hydraulic

Get cyl. set to at least 15 deg. otherwise if you get the front filled to much it can lift it, it takes alot of force to get it started up. I found out the hardway on my bigger trailer. Here is a couple pictures of my bigger one that I made for L3010 kubota 30HP. I still have it and use it all the time, it has moved many yards of gravel and clay.

banditbooker · Mar 17, 2013

Thanks nyen, The inside of the bed measures 50" by 84" and the sides are 16" high. The cylinder is 3.5" bore with a 24" stroke. I'm not sure what psi my tractor is, all I know is the valve flow is 5.1 gpm. I think the total flow is around 8 gpm but I'm not sure. As for the auxiliary hydraulics, I followed a thread here on tractorbynet. You basically need to just buy the parts and bolt them up. There is a hydraulic block that bolts on the side of the transmission where the oil goes to the loader spool valve. You have the loaders in and out ports, but there is also 2 more ports coming out the bottom that are plugged off. These are the ports I used for the auxiliary hydraulics. To use those ports you need to take the block off and there is a set screw you can get from john deere that screws into the inside of that hydraulic block that lets the oil flow to the new ports, while still supplying oil to the loader valve. I'm not sure if the 2320 is the same, but I can give you my parts list of everything I ordered to add the auxiliary hydraulics if you want. I have right around $250 in everything including the 2 spool valve and fittings and hoses. As opposed to john deeres "power beyond kit" that supposedly costs around $300 and you dont even get a spool valve, just a line to connect the in and out ports.

nyen0004 · Mar 17, 2013

Leejohn said:
Nyen0004,
I forgot to find out the size of my trailer today, well do tomorrow. Here is a link that well heip you out.

https://www.surpluscenter.com/techhelp.asp?catname=hydraulic

Get cyl. set to at least 15 deg. otherwise if you get the front filled to much it can lift it, it takes alot of force to get it started up. I found out the hardway on my bigger trailer. Here is a couple pictures of my bigger one that I made for L3010 kubota 30HP. I still have it and use it all the time, it has moved many yards of gravel and clay.

Thanks Leejohn the calculators on the hydraulics page is really going to help me figure out what size of cylinder and lifting force i will want.

nyen0004 · Mar 17, 2013

bantit, thanks for the dimensions its also going to help in the design of my trailer. I am going to check with JD if they make a kit for my 2320 to have rear hydros. We'll see what they want for it and then I will decide if I will make my own or not.