Dump Trailer - How many dumps before battery is dead?

[SLHawkins]

1greenmachine1,
If you have not found a solution yet; here's one for ya. After getting caught at the dump, on several occasions, with a body that would not raise (even worse, with a body that would not come down and me blocking the whole dumpsite I replaced the need for a battery completely and ran power directly from the truck. Order Item #: SM120 from AW direct. http://www.awdirect.com/ramsey-quic...h-mounting-20-ft-stc1802005/winch-accessories. You can also get the parts you from NAPA, or Warn Winch. This kit, however, includes a solenoid. You will also need to get about 4 ft each to run positive and negative cables from your hydraulic pump on the trailer, as well as, the quick disconnect. I had on '06 F350 and after hooking the cable to the battery, I ran the wire from the solenoid into one of the upfitter switches, which provided a master shut-off. I still have the battery in the trailer connected if I need to pull the trailer behind another vehicle without direct power. When I get my next truck, I will hook it up the same way. You will never have to worry about a dead battery again.

Hawk

 

[Reg]

I have a Hillsboro's 14' Dump Trailer and can only get 4-6 dumps before my battery is dead. The dealer that sold me the trailer wired the plug on the truck/ to allow the dump trailer battery to charge when truck is running, but I believe the wire is to small to do any charging.

I've sometimes will dump a load every 10-15 minutes. I keep 2 batteries charged up and have to change out the batteries. this gives me 10-12 dumps before both batteries are discharged.

Is there any way that a person can continuely dump without changing out batteries?

It really stinks when the battery dies when the trailer is in the up position. I have to then jump the dump trailer battery to get the dump bed back down.

It is my understanding that SOME Ford vehicles only supply +12 V to the trailer plug when the starter key is in the ON or RUN position.
I think most GM vehicles supply the +12 V at all times, I don't know about Chryco.

Wire diameter (its resistance) is almost certainly not an issue, unless it is SO thin that it is getting noticeably WARM.
With the tow vehicle running you should be able to measure at least 13.5 volts at the trailer's battery when the truck is running.
Without doing much arithmetic - IF you have say 100 amp alternator, IF your tow vehicle's battery(s) is fully charged, i.e. most of the 100 amps is available to your trailer, you could get about 17 (100/6) amp hours "INTO" your trailer battery in the 10 minutes between dump operations, or 25 (100/4) amp hours if you are dumping every 15 minutes.

Round numbers.... to figure if this is just the way things are you would need the current draw and time for dumping, presumably with a FULL load.
I doubt that it is over 200 amps or that it takes more than a minute, so each dump operation probably "TAKES OUT" less than 200/60 amp hours.

I suggest you repeat this arithmetic with your ACTUAL numbers, but my mere OPINION is that it really SHOULD be able to keep up - subject to the tow vehicle being up to scratch.

 

[tlbuser]

You really need a dump truck, not a dump trailer.

Chris

Why? On most 35/4500 chassis trucks they use an electric/hydraulic pump. If he could install a pto pump and wetline kit........

Our dump trailer used to get 5 or 6 dumps on a full battery charge. Ran a power outlet (fuse, 2 guage wire and anderson plug) to the rear of the truck, problem solved. Has been handy for a winch outlet a couple of times too.

 

[Skyco]

It is my understanding that SOME Ford vehicles only supply +12 V to the trailer plug when the starter key is in the ON or RUN position.
I think most GM vehicles supply the +12 V at all times, I don't know about Chryco.

Wire diameter (its resistance) is almost certainly not an issue, unless it is SO thin that it is getting noticeably WARM.
With the tow vehicle running you should be able to measure at least 13.5 volts at the trailer's battery when the truck is running.
Without doing much arithmetic - IF you have say 100 amp alternator, IF your tow vehicle's battery(s) is fully charged, i.e. most of the 100 amps is available to your trailer, you could get about 17 (100/6) amp hours "INTO" your trailer battery in the 10 minutes between dump operations, or 25 (100/4) amp hours if you are dumping every 15 minutes.

Round numbers.... to figure if this is just the way things are you would need the current draw and time for dumping, presumably with a FULL load.
I doubt that it is over 200 amps or that it takes more than a minute, so each dump operation probably "TAKES OUT" less than 200/60 amp hours.

I suggest you repeat this arithmetic with your ACTUAL numbers, but my mere OPINION is that it really SHOULD be able to keep up - subject to the tow vehicle being up to scratch.

Actually wire resistance is a HUGE issue, that is the major reason it is so tough to charge a trailer battery in a reasonable time with factory installed wiring. Depending on how much voltage loss and insulation temp is allowed/desired then one is looking at AWG 1 or bigger!

 

[JB4310]

I know this is an old thread, and I didn't read all the replies.

But when I bought my 5 ton EZ Dumper I asked them the same question, they said it depends on alot of factors, but I should need to charge the battery occasionally.

Well after close to 6 years I never needed to charge the battery, Just replaced it this year. Never had it not dump.
I carry an old set of jumper cables in the box, and when I'm going for many trips I bring my booster battery, but never needed either.

The odd thing is most of my trips are very short, the quarry is only about 8 miles away and the dump is only 3-4 miles away.

And mine does have power down so that is using more juice, I'm always worried about it getting stuck in the raised position. there is a way to lower it with some manual function of the valve, but I'm not sure how to do it.

This is with Dodge 2500 and 3500.

JB