TractorGuy
Elite Member
- Joined
- Sep 15, 2013
- Messages
- 4,616
- Location
- N. FL
- Tractor
- John Deere 4310 CUT, Ford New Holland 575E Cab Backhoe (sold), John Deere F725 Front Mount Mower, Kubota LX3310 cab.
This is my review on the DuroMax model XP10000EH Generator. I decided to do a separate thread to review this unit. Deals come and go and pricing varies so this is purely focused on putting together and using the unit as well as providing specifications you won't find in the manual or other reviews.
Unpacking and assembly was pretty easy. After cutting the straps and tape the box sides ripped open easily. The unit comes with a wheel kit, tools for assembly, a propane hose, and even includes a bag of electrical plugs for all the receptacles. I found the bolts to be easier to access and tighten with a 1/4" drive ratchet and 10mm socket than using the included wrench.
I installed the handles first then rolled it on to the engine end of the frame to install the wheels and rests. The axle mount holes are offset so it only goes on one way. Make sure and position it so the stubs stick out equal on both sides. After the axle is tight place a flat washer on the stub, install the wheel with the hub offset inwards, then another flat washer, and the cotter pin.
The oil capacity required 1 qt, 5 oz to fill. That was a little detail they left out of the manual. The manual is for the older 16 HP engine unit.
Before starting you have to plug the positive cable onto the battery. You can do this without removing the battery panel by reaching in from the end.
I tested the unit with both type fuels and saw no difference in performance. The voltage seemed to vary from 242 to 245. The hertz varied from 61.5 to 65. After warming the engine a while I applied a 2700 watt load followed by a 5400 watt load and finally an 8100 watt load. It continued to run under all of these applied loads. When I increased the load to 10800 watts it fell on it's face. It may survive a 10KW spike but it will not run at that load. Both of the fuel efficiency tests were performed under a constant 5400 watt load. I may look into replacing the volt meter with a digital generator meter so I can record hours of use as well as monitor voltage and hertz.
Small portable propane tanks would not be the way to go. It used just under 6 lbs per hour at a 5400 watt load. Also when the tank got down to about 3 lbs left it did not have enough pressure to keep the generator running properly. RPMs dropped off to where the voltage dropped below acceptable limits. Given the current rate of fill at 15 lbs. you would be changing tanks every two hours.
With 1 gallon of ethanol free gasoline it ran for one hour and 4 minutes under a 5400 watt load. It will probably come close to the advertised 10 hour run time per tank at 50% load.
It is not a super quiet or loud unit. I measured 94 dB right beside it and had to walk out 45 feet to get the advertised 72 dB level. From inside the house I could drown it out with the TV at a normal to me volume.
For a cover I used a 5'6"x7'6" HF tarp. They sell these pretty cheap and often give them away with coupons.
I placed the foam that came with the unit on top and positioned the tarp evenly over it.
Then I folded the sides in, stapled, and marked them. Then I pulled the tarp off and punched holes to add a grommet to hold them in place.
It ain't the prettiest cover but it goes on and off fairly easy and should help protect the unit. I left the foam in the top to make it easier to handle and it also keeps the ends from laying out on the ground too bad.
If I left anything out or you have any other questions about it please ask.
Unpacking and assembly was pretty easy. After cutting the straps and tape the box sides ripped open easily. The unit comes with a wheel kit, tools for assembly, a propane hose, and even includes a bag of electrical plugs for all the receptacles. I found the bolts to be easier to access and tighten with a 1/4" drive ratchet and 10mm socket than using the included wrench.
I installed the handles first then rolled it on to the engine end of the frame to install the wheels and rests. The axle mount holes are offset so it only goes on one way. Make sure and position it so the stubs stick out equal on both sides. After the axle is tight place a flat washer on the stub, install the wheel with the hub offset inwards, then another flat washer, and the cotter pin.
The oil capacity required 1 qt, 5 oz to fill. That was a little detail they left out of the manual. The manual is for the older 16 HP engine unit.
Before starting you have to plug the positive cable onto the battery. You can do this without removing the battery panel by reaching in from the end.
I tested the unit with both type fuels and saw no difference in performance. The voltage seemed to vary from 242 to 245. The hertz varied from 61.5 to 65. After warming the engine a while I applied a 2700 watt load followed by a 5400 watt load and finally an 8100 watt load. It continued to run under all of these applied loads. When I increased the load to 10800 watts it fell on it's face. It may survive a 10KW spike but it will not run at that load. Both of the fuel efficiency tests were performed under a constant 5400 watt load. I may look into replacing the volt meter with a digital generator meter so I can record hours of use as well as monitor voltage and hertz.
Small portable propane tanks would not be the way to go. It used just under 6 lbs per hour at a 5400 watt load. Also when the tank got down to about 3 lbs left it did not have enough pressure to keep the generator running properly. RPMs dropped off to where the voltage dropped below acceptable limits. Given the current rate of fill at 15 lbs. you would be changing tanks every two hours.
With 1 gallon of ethanol free gasoline it ran for one hour and 4 minutes under a 5400 watt load. It will probably come close to the advertised 10 hour run time per tank at 50% load.
It is not a super quiet or loud unit. I measured 94 dB right beside it and had to walk out 45 feet to get the advertised 72 dB level. From inside the house I could drown it out with the TV at a normal to me volume.
For a cover I used a 5'6"x7'6" HF tarp. They sell these pretty cheap and often give them away with coupons.
I placed the foam that came with the unit on top and positioned the tarp evenly over it.
Then I folded the sides in, stapled, and marked them. Then I pulled the tarp off and punched holes to add a grommet to hold them in place.
It ain't the prettiest cover but it goes on and off fairly easy and should help protect the unit. I left the foam in the top to make it easier to handle and it also keeps the ends from laying out on the ground too bad.
If I left anything out or you have any other questions about it please ask.
Knock on wood...
