DX33 Ignition Switch

[caddison]

Has anyone had problems with the ignition switch on their DX or TC33? My DX has 223 hours and the switch is starting to get very hard to turn. I called the dealer and that cheap plastic switch is $50.00! Any other sources out there?

 

[Redneck_Randy]

Squirt some lock graphite in it and see if that might free it up a bit.

 

[caddison]

Squirt some lock graphite in it and see if that might free it up a bit.

I have removed the switch and disassembled it. The two contact points are spring loaded. The housing is plastic and shows quite a bit of wear in the area where there are mounted in the housing. I was able to loosen up the spring loaded contacts but this is a temporary fix for sure. I have checked with two dealers and it looks like it is going to cost $50.00 to replace the switch. Sounds a little steep for a plastic switch.

 

[jinman]

I just paid nearly $50 for a temperature gage insert for my instrument panel.
I feel your pain.

 

[caddison]

Has anyone had problems with the ignition switch on their DX or TC33? My DX has 223 hours and the switch is starting to get very hard to turn. I called the dealer and that cheap plastic switch is $50.00! Any other sources out there?

Testing

 

[dqdave1]

I am sure an auto parts store like NAPA could get a close replacement for it; take it in and show them so they can match it up. From what I have read; switches are cheaply made and have failed quite often.

 

[daTeacha]

There is a thread or two about this on the NH board. The consensus seems to be that you can get a good non-stock replacement with metal parts at any auto parts store for considerably less than the $50 plastic OEM piece. Just take your switch with you to make sure the new one will fit in the dash. Write down or draw a picture of the connections before you take it apart.

 

[Radiopoor]

I went to my Dealer yesterday and asked about the Service Bulletin mike10 mentioned in one of the NH threads and they printed the page off for me. The "Root Cause" on it says " Insufficient voltage at the starter solenoid to extend starter pinion as well as close contacts between the starter motor and battery".

These are the CIH part numbers listed in the bulletin:

1 30A Relay 86529089
1 Relay Base 245731C1
4 Terminal 225077C1

It says to procure the following items locally: ring style connector, 14 gauge wire & female spade connector.

I was just going to replace the switch but decided to do this too, then maybe I will not have to deal with this "no crank" problem again.

Hope this is helpfull.

Ron

 

[Boomerang1]

A few months ago, I started having problems with the ignition switch on my DX33. The key began turning hard and not long after, the starter motor would not engage but the solenoid would click. Sometimes it would even blow the fuse.

I replaced the switch with $14.00 after market unit and it works great. You can use a switch with either 3 or 4 terminals. Here is how to connect the switch.

For a 3 terminal switch:
Cut the factory connector off the wiring harness.
Connect the 2 RED wires together and solder on a terminal eye.
Connect this eye to the terminal on the switch labeled BATTERY.

Solder a terminal eye on the ORANGE wire and connect to the terminal labeled IGNITION.

Solder a terminal eye on the WHITE wire and connect to the terminal labeled STARTER.

A 4 terminal switch will have an extra terminal labeled ACC.
You do not need to connect anything to this terminal unless you want to run any accessories such as a radio, ect...

I used the 4 terminal switch but did not use the ACC terminal. This way, when I trailer my tractor, I can turn the key to ACC and the key can not fall out of the switch like it can in the off position.

 

[caddison]

A few months ago, I started having problems with the ignition switch on my DX33. The key began turning hard and not long after, the starter motor would not engage but the solenoid would click. Sometimes it would even blow the fuse.

I replaced the switch with $14.00 after market unit and it works great. You can use a switch with either 3 or 4 terminals. Here is how to connect the switch.

For a 3 terminal switch:
Cut the factory connector off the wiring harness.
Connect the 2 RED wires together and solder on a terminal eye.
Connect this eye to the terminal on the switch labeled BATTERY.

Solder a terminal eye on the ORANGE wire and connect to the terminal labeled IGNITION.

Solder a terminal eye on the WHITE wire and connect to the terminal labeled STARTER.

A 4 terminal switch will have an extra terminal labeled ACC.
You do not need to connect anything to this terminal unless you want to run any accessories such as a radio, ect...

I used the 4 terminal switch but did not use the ACC terminal. This way, when I trailer my tractor, I can turn the key to ACC and the key can not fall out of the switch like it can in the off position.

I believe I will try this for mine.....Thanks!