Thanks for the reply RGOLD. I never even thought about the fully retracted position measurement, (will have to check tommorrow). I'd just been going on what came stock on my 273. Maybe shorter will give me more uplift?
I know that I damaged my top cylinder using it with my boxblade. I always need to fully suck it up on the cylinder to get adequate clearance if I was in any sort of dip or what not. So it seems {as we will see by your future useage} that perhaps Brian was/is right in his accessment that a 2x8 or 2x10 is entirely sufficient?
I eagerly await your opinions on what works for you!
Thanks, Greg
I was always catching my blade on things when moving around the property. Another one of the reasons I wanted a hydraulic top link. It was a real pain having to manually retract it all the way whenever I was moving from one place to the next but when I hit bumps or dips in the ground, the blade would catch on stuff. A smaller blade would probably not have that problem but I really like having the larger heavier blade for what I use it for. I also changed the position of the lower arms when I was installing the side links to the upper hole for a little more height.
Ron