Easing Rise Methods

[SLOBuds]

I do not have a tree at the top for my L35 to swing on!

But I do have a very nice and heavy Ganon box blade, and scarifiers that would help as mentioned. So this would be a process of just shaving it down progressively and dragging the material further up. That won't be too difficult to try. And I do have access to a borrowed disk which someone mentioned could help loosen everything before the pull.

Thanks for the ideas. I will give it a try this week. Not sure about the video though!

 

[zeuspaul]

I think I would still work backwards pushing the dirt down hill with the box blade tilted slightly down for good a good cutting angle. First trim some topside dirt and push over and through the *x* to raise the grade below to make it drivable with the tractor. As the road becomes driveable turn around and use the FEL to dig into the now loosened dirt piled towards the bottom and back the spoils up the hill. Then turn around and back down the hill cutting more with the box blade. Then turn around and back the spoils up the hill with the FEL.

I am only familiar with my box blade. It has a curved cutting edge on the back. Some box blades may not and then this method would not work. I can cut ten times+ more dirt with the box blade down hill than I can with the FEL. For me the FEL only works with loosened dirt. Perhaps my experience would be different if I had a tooth bar.

Pushing backwards down the hill gives you the HP of the tractor plus its weight. You can overload your 3PH this way so be careful. I broke my tractor this way but not by just moving dirt. As I encountered rocks I would get under them with the box and pry them up. I broke the rear casing by prying a 3000 pound boulder up and out of the ground.

Work the entire width of the slope. Don't just make a road down the center or you may make access to your slope impossible.

The *x* may be there because it is hardened material or perhaps rock. Why else would it be there?

Zeuspaul

 

[Highbeam]

I agree with the others that have said to back the tractor up, drop the box, and pull the material up hill to your pile. The hardest part will be dealing with the sod and organic junk that clumps up but then it will be gravy. This is a beer job. Back and forth all day long draggin boxblade loads of dirt. A good amount of fuel will be consumed too since you are going uphill and working the machine.

 

[wushaw]

I do not have a tree at the top for my L35 to swing on!

But I do have a very nice and heavy Ganon box blade, and scarifiers that would help as mentioned. So this would be a process of just shaving it down progressively and dragging the material further up. That won't be too difficult to try. And I do have access to a borrowed disk which someone mentioned could help loosen everything before the pull.

Thanks for the ideas. I will give it a try this week. Not sure about the video though!

Just drop your scarfiers and rip up the area you want to lower then use the bb to drag the material to a pile. If you have hyd scarfiers and hyd top link things will be real easy.

 

[Toolguy]

I think the best tool you have for this job is the BH. You can loosen the dirt first and then use the BB and FEL to move it farther up the hill. Once the dirt is loosened up the whole job will go much faster. I have used my 2 bottom plow to loosen up areas I wanted to level out. It saves a lot of the brute force needed to reshape hard ground or sod. My pictures show me plowing and piling up the loose dirt and sod. I then pushed it back where I wanted it and worked it level with just the FEL and a RB. This helped separate out the sod which I had to hand rake out. That took some time but you can see my results in the second picture after it was replanted to grass.

 

[Harry c]

Been there, done that. Start at the top, back from the edge, at the point you want the slope to start. Using your FEL follow your dotted line, not the existing slope as you work down the incline. Go forward (down the hill) until you get a bucket full. Back up and dump where you want. If you have trouble backing out, your dotted line is too steep to work later anyway. After the first couple of bites, you'll be cutting into a basically vertical wall. Makes it easy to get a full bucket and you can't slide down the "slippery slope". Obviously, teeth on the bucket will help and will increase the bucket carrying capacity as well.
There are a couple of additional advantages: The biggest volume of dirt will be near the top. That makes for a fairly short trip (in and out) for the largest volume. The downward slope lets Old Dad Gravity help you load the bucket.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Been there, done that. Start at the top, back from the edge, at the point you want the slope to start. Using your FEL follow your dotted line, not the existing slope as you work down the incline. Go forward (down the hill) until you get a bucket full. [snip]
The downward slope lets Old Dad Gravity help you load the bucket.

Yeah, I like your idea and the one in post#18.
larry

 

[SLOBuds]

Been there, done that. Start at the top, back from the edge, at the point you want the slope to start. Using your FEL follow your dotted line, not the existing slope

I think that is a good way to go, except that it will probably be a bit hard to follow the dotted line since it can't really be visualized due to the crest of the hill hiding where it actually needs to go.

But actually, you can most likely get close enough to the dotted line and also work it down progressively. It's a good idea to let gravity help with the process.

My dirt is going to be spread over a large area in back of the slope that I'm cutting down. The BB drag technique might work better due to that fact. But I'll need to take a look at the area and plan that out a bit first.

Thanks

 

[wedge40]

Strategically placed fertilzer and diesel fuel would make this whole process go a lot quicker. And the dirt would be evenly distributed afterward.

Wedge

 

[JoeL4330]

how high is the "cliff"? (that is, how many inches, feet, yards is your maximum "cut" ?)...if it is small, like 2 or 3 times the height of your bucket, then all these ideas work ...if it is quite high compared to the bucket then none of these ideas work very well ...

Myself, I would be wary of putting a backblade or boxblade over the edge of a high cliff ...although, if I had to, I would make sure the bucket was full and low. My worry would be the stability of the cliff edge. If the cliff is not too high, then workin' it from the bottom with the FEL (and a toothbar) is a sound way to do it ...think "stripmine" and pretend you're a big payloader.

If you want to pretend you're a big dozer, do it from the top, starting the cut pretty far back ...even so, a tether would be nice

No matter what else, be sure and set up the video cam first