eBay/Craigslist EBAY

Anonymous Poster · Feb 12, 2003

Of course one has to trust what the dealer or individual says was done. Once repainted and cleaned up, one can not tell the good from the bad. If the labor is cheap and good honest managers are available, anything that is structurally sound is rebuildable. On the other hand, most tractors of this age if they had any maintenance don't need a rebuild. Therefore the need to be rebuilt implies bad maintenance that caused problems that needed a rebuild.

A factory in a foreign country (which is likely vietnam) provides little guarantee (and any that is provided is probably unenforcable). Who you gonna call? The dealer--they will say call the "factory".

This doesn't mean there aren't people with good experiences with rebuilt tractors. And it doesn't mean that there aren't horror stories either. The question is what are the percentages? Is there any way to know?

For a tractor to be worth transporting to vietnam, rebuilding with cheap labor (without the cheap labor it would have been done in Japan or the US) then transported again to the US, there has to be profit. As I said in a previous thread, there has to be value left in the drive train for it to be worth rebuilding. If not, the parts if the rebuild was done well, would cost more than the tractor is worth plus the two trips the tractor took.

I understand that used tractors have less value in Japan than the US or elsewhere (due to the subsidy to farmers for new tractors). On the other hand, for a tractor to be worth transporting it must have value left in it (i.e. the drive train). If not, one must at least appear to fix that problem and therein lies the problem. If the tractor is in reasonable condition, it doesn't go to vietnam for a rebuild, it comes directly to a dealer who does the minor stuff, changes the fluids, cleans it and sells it. If its a little worse, he paints it. Finally, if it is in really bad shape, it gets transported elsewhere for work and parts from other tractors to make it appear (whether truly or not) to be in good shape.

Buyer beware of the used car with a new paint job.

JeffRey30747 · Feb 13, 2003

As for the issue on the cost of parts for these tractors, that assumes that new parts would be used in such a rebuild. I think that it is probably more likely that they would be "frankenstein" units that are cobbled together from a number of units with significant problems. However, this doesn't necessarily imply that such a unit would be less reliable than any other unit. If done right with good used parts, a rebuild could still be a better deal than any given unit sourced from a private party. Used is used and you are always going to be taking a little more of a chance than a warranted new unit.

EFC · Feb 13, 2003

Digger Jim, PTO is rated in HP not KW (at least on the greys). 1 hp is equal to 746 watts. Since Torque is the work performed and hp is the rate at which it is performed hp is not a good way to determine power. Drawbar hp would change based on gear ratio but if you decided that the test would be conducted on a 1:1 gear ratio then many factors (weight, tire diameter, gear friction, rotational mass) would have an effect. I have a dealer 50 miles from me and everything he sells is 30hp. YM1500, ym2210...it doesn’t matter he has a formula that says everything is more powerful than it is. Every time I look at eBay there are 29hp Ym2000's or the like for sale. I always send them an email and I get back the same canned response "that is what my importer told me". Doesn’t much matter though, a Yanmar 1500 cant put more than 5hp to the ground before the tires start spinning anyway. I connected a Yanmar 1500 to a PTO gen set and it ran out at 16.2hp.

YanmarFever · Feb 13, 2003

Buck, I hooked up an FX24-D to a dyno,and got almost 26 hp.
at the meter. So I tend to follow your formula,
The tractors on ebay mess things up for everyone because, the truth is streched past the limit ( a mile).
/forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif Ern.

EFC · Feb 14, 2003

Ernie, I agree. Hp is a lazy mans tool for picking/selling a tractor anyway. Every phone call I get is someone saying they "need" 30 hp minimum. It is like a shoot from the hip requirement. Later you find out they "need" about 2hp. They plan to plant flowers with it in there 20'x20' garden. People assume if it takes 200hp to move their car down the road you would need at least 30hp to move your tractor across the lawn. A 1hp single cylinder steam engine tractor has far more power and usable traction than a 3110 Yanmar. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

diggerjim · Feb 15, 2003

Them darn horses, ya haveta rest'em at the ends of the fields or they get too hot. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Just remember the ebayers are not the only ones stretching the standard of measurement. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

The point I was trying to make was that outside of the U.S. especially in European and Aisan countries the metric system is dominant. Ratings are in Kilowatt, as far as I've seen. PTO HP does diddlysquat when you hook the tractor up to a log, plow, middle buster etc. Same goes for Drawbar HP when using the PTO. Seems that I always find something to hook up to the requires more HP and traction than I have. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Jim

EFC · Feb 16, 2003

Jim the perfect tractor would be 1hp with 900ft lbs of torque that always weighed twice as much as the implement. I can't find a drawbar load that will bog down an YM1110D enough to kill the engine. Hook it to your house it will just sit there and spin at idle. Dealers rate their tractors on flywheel hp, not sure why, just seems to be the norm. If it were up to me I would advertise a torque to weight ratio but customers know hp and you don’t want to here anything beyond that.