Educate me on trailer jacks

[dstig1]

So my 10k loboy trailer has the typical jack in the nose, right behind the coupler. It's a solid Bulldog 8k jack, problem is that it is too close to the front so I can't open the tailgate on my PU as it hits the jack. Sure there are things I can do like putting a blanket over it or something, but that isn't a good solution as you can't really step on the tailgate for risk of damaging it.

So I'm thinking it might be nice to move the jack back to the front of the deck like I see on heavier trailers and use a side crank setup so I can use it from the edge of the trailer. What's involved in this? Is there anything special to it, or is it just a case of doing good welds with 7018 up the edge of the outer case to the front rail? I could brace it with triangulating it to the A-frame or something, but I don't want to get ridiculous about it while still making it solid. Having never done this before do you just pull the jack innards out, grind off paint and go to it, or what?

Here's what mine looks like. Yes, I would get a new jack with a sidewinder crank. Just looking for a clue here as the trailer websites seem to assume you know everything...

 

[DanD78]

Are you pulling off the bumper instead of a receiver hitch. I have seen that be a problem. If that isn't the problem you might change the "A" frame coupler to a Bull Dog brand. I have them on two different trailers and they are a little longer on the nose. I use a receiver hitch and have about 4" between the tail gate and the jack.

You could also put a cross brace furter back in the "A" frame and put the jack there. Redneck trailer supply has a lot of different styles of jacks.

It could just be the picture but that looks like a lot of tractor for that trailer.

Trailer Coupler 2-5/16" A-Frame Style 12,500 LB. 4B8L | eBay

Dan D.

 

[MillWeld]

I had the identical problem with a smaller trailer which I was modifying to load logs. I moved the jack back about 2 feet and mounted it to a sort of 3 x 6 box beam which I welded to the trailer frame. The jack was bolted to the top of the beam and passed though a hole in the bottom of the box beam to provide lateral support to the jack. You can get a general idea from the pic. (I also made use of the original jack hole to mount a winch to a sliding pipe in the hole). My jack is 5000 lbs. As far as I know it only takes adequate welding. I've had no problem with my modifications.
Bob

 

[Army grunt]

">>>>>IMO<<<<"
Just a quick look at the toe bar on your trailer I find ,short,an light. It may be a good time to add about 4 feat to it with some 2x4 tubing . It will toe better an add some stability to your trailer.Like I said Its just my take.

 

[Scooby074]

going to the front of the deck and installing better landing gear is a good idea!! I hate those top crank jacks with a passion! When i rebuild my trailer, im putting something like this on it right at the front centre of the deck and running the crank to the drivers side .

 

[hrcarver]

If you are moving up to 12k jack, you need to have to new jack welded on if you can't do it. Not a big deal. Shouldn't cost you more than $20 or $40. Also, on the the bigger side wind jacks, there is a piece of pipe welded to the trailer for a guide for the crank as it gets to the driver side of the trailer and also a little spring tab to hold the handle folded in place for transport.

The last trailer I got has a spring in it that automatically picks up the jack when you pull the pin. Not sure how long it will hold up, but that sure has been nice the last couple years.

 

[Gary Fowler]

If you are happy with the current jack type, cheapest/easiest is to just weld in a cross brace back far enough to avoid contact with the tailgate and remount the existing jack. You could also get a bolt on style that u-bolts to the C channel tounge and folds up for transport if you dont have a welding machine. I'm not sure how high the capacity goes on those style.
As suggested, easiest is to just relocate the one you have backward by adding some cross braces.

 

[dstig1]

Dan D - Pulling from the receiver. Way too much load to pull from the bumper. The trailer has enough weight capacity for the tractor (10k trailer, probably 8000-8500 total weight of everything, including the trailer) but it is only 16' - shorter than I would like. 20'-22' would be great, but I have made it work just fine. Putting a cross brace in back a bit further was another thought I had too, and that could work. I think it needs to move back maybe 6-8" to clear the tailgate with some extra cushion.

Bob - you call that a SMALL trailer?!?! That looks like 7-8" channel. Nice work. Yeah, your jack idea looks good too - same basic principle of moving it back a bit to clear.

ArmyGrunt - Not sure I follow you but the trailer does pull perfectly as is, loaded or empty. No sway or anything, and the load is within the rating of it, but there is always room for improvement. What part are you suggesting to extend?

Jason - That was the sort of jack I was looking at, though it is overkill. Even the jack that is on there now is 8k, which is way more (8-10x) than the tongue load of the trailer. I have no real problem with the jack, other than the location interfering with the tailgate.

Carver/Gary - Yeah, I think I am coming to the conclusion that moving the existing jack back is the way to go... I have no concerns with my ability to weld this on, and make it quite solid.

Thanks for the discussion guys!

 

[Scooby074]

Jack is definitely overkill from a sheer weight capacity standpoint, but the lack of flex in the leg and better / faster jacking mechanism will make it worth it in my book. Thats my reasoning for the upgrade i intend on doing.

 

[jeffsw6]

An electric jack might be an easier mod than a regular one with a remote crank.