EGR failure....

/ EGR failure.... #1  

spruce Deere

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 1, 2009
Messages
1,199
Location
Northmost Idaho
Tractor
John Deere 790 with loader, LS xr3140h loader and cab,1150 case dozer
After 6 years and 3 months of near flawless operation, AND out of warranty the XR 3140's egr valve gave it up. Better now while getting ready for the spring get everything done race and not in the middle of the race.

The code S27 F08 made itself known this morning moving some things around with the tractor. So I pulled the tractor in the shop, turned off the key and a screechy, grinding noise eminated from under the hood, and a little later found it's the sound of the failed electrical controlled egr.

I did a little research, read sometimes removing and cleaning it works, but it didn't this time.

Plus side of all this malarkey, I found the obd port behind the bottom kick panel on the drive pedal 'right' side of the dash. Was happy to see it plugged right in to my scan tool. Then learned the dpf is 'severely' plugged.... a symptom of a malfunctioning egr.

Like the tractor, but do not like the pointless emissions forced oppon it, or any brand of any implement at all.

I tell ya, getting the dpf cleaned is nothing 'under 200 clams' compared to the price for a new egr thing $1,300 bucks and some change.

Looks like there is other options though😁
 
/ EGR failure.... #2  
The S27 F08 code is EGR position fault. Either the valve is stuck or the position sensor has failed. It doesn't automatically mean your DPF is plugged. S81 F07 means it's plugged, and S81 F0 means DPF overload and needs a regen. S81 F11 means DPF fault triggers reduced torque (Engine derate) which can be caused by any of the above faults. If you try to fix it the right way and replace the EGR valve, it's gonna get really expensive because the original Erae valve was discontinued by the manufacturer. Nothing LS could do but change to a different Kamtech valve, so it has to have a conversion kit installed to be able to install the new valve. And the ECU software would need to be updated as well. Some people have cleaned the EGR valve with limited success. If it fails electrically, (position sensor or H-bridge circuit), there's nothing you can do but replace it. If the EGR valve and piping is shiny and wet inside, the EGR cooler could be leaking coolant into it. You can take the DPF apart and inspect it for plugging if necessary. Possibly consider deleting the system versus having it converted to the new EGR valve. There are people out there that offer it. Sadly, if it would have failed within 5 years, the emission warranty would have covered the new EGR and conversion kit.
 
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/ EGR failure....
  • Thread Starter
#3  
GS650GL, I pulled the egr from the tractor and cleaned it out, manually moved it open and closed. It really was not that bad. I'm guessing something electrical in the controler of the valve is just gunny bag.

The code did say iirc, short or connection issue. No wires were loose, rubbed or chewed on.

There is Allen bolts that hold the plastic cover on the valve. The two tiny ones on the bottom only back out so far and quit. Without getting straight western with it, it did not want to come apart.
 
/ EGR failure.... #4  
The screechy grinding noise you describe sounds familiar, my XR 4155 has done that a few times for a few seconds right after starting the engine but so far no codes displayed on the dash and everything seems to work like it’s supposed to.
I had thought the noise was somehow related to cold starts but the other day after was done using it I shut it off before letting it idle for 2 minutes to cool the turbo so I restarted it about 10 seconds later and got the same screechy grinding noise for a few seconds.
 
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/ EGR failure.... #5  
Every time you turn the key off, the EGR valve cycles open and closed 3 times. It's normal to hear a distinct sound when it cycles 3 times, but when it's failing it sometimes makes a loud squealing or screeching sound. This is after turning the key switch off. If it makes noise after startup, that's a different issue. Usually a belt. Inside the EGR valve, there's a linear actuator to open and close it, position sensor, and circuit board. It's not intended to be taken apart and there's nothing you can repair inside anyway. The only thing you can really do is clean the plunger that moves when it opens and closes to try to make it move easier if it's sticking, and hope for the best. There has not been a high success rate by cleaning it, but it's always worth trying.
 
/ EGR failure....
  • Thread Starter
#6  
I monkey'd with the egr valve some more this morning, REALLY tried to take it apart but only managed to break off some of the plastic from the housing. I have a game plan I'm putting forth tomorrow besides looking at bank loans to just further this epa mandated junk.....
 

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