electric brakes for my tractor

[Adiredneck]

I have had a few scary descents lately down my mountain hauling down firewood. The terrain is steep in spots on the main road & I am going to eventually get hurt if I don't do something to help slow me down. What typically happens is that if I kick up a rock, I start sliding with the weight of the trailer pushing.

I need the adjustability of a brake controller to vary the voltage to the brakes as they wear, or as the weight of the load varies, but I don't have a solid plan on putting the brake controller in an evironment where it probably should not be. If I had a cab, this would be simple, but that's not going to be happening.

As for the signal for the controller, I plan on a momentary push button on the right fender of the tractor that I can engage manually. I don't want the brakes coming on every time I set my parking brake otherwise.

My best idea right now would be a small box that I could mount to the right fender. I could mount the controller in there with a flip up lid when I need to make adjustments. Where would I get such a thing? Maybe a radio box for a boat?

I have seen a few posts here on people wanting to do this. Has anyone actually gone through with the project though?

I do not want hydraulic surge brakes. I have them on my popup and am not really impressed.

Any ideas?

 

[dbdartman]

I'd think a simple rheostat (either a knob or slide) to the trailer brake system would be fine, & cheaper than a brake controller.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Get a brake light switch from a motorcycle. Make a bracket to mount the switch under your brake pedal. Then use a standard brake controller. It won't need to be the most expensive high-tech model.

 

[Adiredneck]

I thought about a motorcycle switch, but I do not want or need to use it all of the time.

I also have two spare controllers in my garage, so that part is covered.

If I wanted to go the route of a rheostat, where would I find one? Would it handle the amperage of the electromagnets? I am thinking of a 12v dimmer switch for instumentation, but it seems like that would be low amperage.

 

[Soundguy]

The rheostat idea is a bad one.

You could build a PWM from some mosfets if you are handy with an electric schematic and solder iron.. but it's just easier to use a controller.

Some hay trailers that need to flip over just use a switch to lock the brakes down to flip the bale carrier over.. etc.. .. so don't just wire straight up to power.. you don't want locked up brakes.. you want the controll of a adjustable controller..

Get a cheapy 40$ hoppy brake controller from TSC.. It will need 12v +/- from the tractor.. then will have a '+' line going out to the brakes.

It has a sliding panic button, as well as a strength adjustment wheel.

It uses a discommect plug in.

Mount some velcro tape to it and the fender, and just slap it on the fender and plug it in when you need it... push the thumb slide to get more power as needed... that's about as easy as it gets. I use this on my ford 5000 when towing a trailer... though it is also easy to make feeler switches to make it automagic.. like in a car/truck.. your call.

Also.. the strength adjustment on the brake controller is not to adjust for wear.. it's to adjust for strength. YOU, THE MAINTAINER of the trailer and tractor need to adjust the brakes for wear preferably..

Soundguy

 

[KubotainNH]

I agree with Soundguy, attach with Velcro when needed. You can use a 4 pin trailer connector (round type with beefy pins and flip cover) and mount the female side somewhere so all you need to do is plug the controller in when needed. Then you can use the button on the controller to add braking. I would also wire a toggle switch so you can lock it on using the brake input to the controller that way you don't have to hold the button if you need to stop for a minute. My camper controller lists a 30amp circuit so you need some power dependant on the trailer. A 12v dimmer will blow out when you need it most.

 

[Danno1]

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If you want a box to mount the electronics do a Google for Digikey, Mouser, or Newark. They have molded plastic, bent aluminum, and cast aluminum. I'd use the cast version on a tractor. Also, I do find the paper catalogs easier to use than their websites!

.

 

[Adiredneck]

Soundguy:

I did a search before I made this post. You were looking to do the same thing last year. Did you go through with it?

I have a Tekonsha Voyager sitting in my garage. I like the 4 prong trailer connector idea for a quick disco.

 

[GaryCrowell]

Sounds like a job for an army surplus store ammo can. Lots of good stuff has been built out of ammo cans, almost as useful as duct tape.

 

[Soundguy]

Yep.. I have a cheapy hoppy controller from TSC hangin in my garage with a wire harness and trailer pigtail and gator clips.

I clip +/- to the battery, plug the controller in, hang it on the fender, and then toss the wire harness over the rear axle and plug it into the trailer. eorkd like a charm.

Of course in that wire harness is also a pin for the trailer running lamps to be on, and I have a 12v blinker wired into the harness so that the trailer blinkers flas like a hazard.. It's a 6 pin plug on my trailer.. etc.

Took about 30 minutes to make.. works good.

Soundguy

Soundguy:

I did a search before I made this post. You were looking to do the same thing last year. Did you go through with it?

I have a Tekonsha Voyager sitting in my garage. I like the 4 prong trailer connector idea for a quick disco.