Electric or Surge brakes? Opinions ? Experiences?

seasalt · Aug 25, 2005

Having a 20 foot dual axle 7000# GVWR trailer custom made for my JD 3720 - that is 2900#+FEL@800+BB@400+BH@1000???+ PHD @450#=5550#

That is all the equipment I have and can imagine for now. Question #1: Is the 7000# enough? - sounds like it is perfect to me when you add trailer weight - what do you guys think?
Question#2: electric with controller or hydraulic surge brakes? (and why).
Question#3: brakes on both axles or one?

Brake type and reasoning are my most pressing issue as I have an order to finalize tomorrow.

FYI- Towing with an '05 Z71 Suburban 4x4.

KentT · Aug 25, 2005

Those weights leave you 1450 lbs max for the weight of the trailer... Is that enough?

Unless you plan to pull the trailer with multiple vehicles, then electric is the way to go... they're easily adjusted for varying loads and road conditions, while surge brakes are not.

IMO, go ahead and pay the extra $150 or so for brakes on both axles. I only got brakes on one, and have regretted it at times with a heavy load...

Another thing I'd recommend is to specify "Easy Lube" axles, where the axles have a grease zerk on the end that allows you to pump grease between the inner and outer bearings -- no need to repack wheel bearings any more....

Bird · Aug 25, 2005

( Is the 7000# enough? )

You can do it, but you'd sure be better off with about a 10,000# trailer.

( electric with controller or hydraulic surge brakes? )

Electric with controller, more precise control, and for me at least, easier to maintain and/or repair if it's ever necessary.

( brakes on both axles or one? )

One axle is better than no brakes, but both axles is definitely much better.

kenmac · Aug 25, 2005

When I was considering hyd. surge disc. brakes. A trailer brake salesman told me elect. was better because elec. brakes put more pressure on the brakes for stopping than do hyd. surge brakes. He said that in his opinion , that the best is to have hyd .(surge) over elec. I don't remember the cost, but it was high. I stayed with elec.I would go with brakes on both axles.

Swanee · Aug 25, 2005

I suspect that a 20 ft trailer would have to be fairly light duty to only weigh around 1500 lbs to keep your total load at 7000lbs. I just upgraded my trailer from an "economy" 16 ft, 7000lb trailer to a 20fter (12,000 lb) this week. Only really needed a 10,000, but they had none of those and lots of the 12,000. My old 16fter listed on the nameplate at 1300 lbs and only had 3"X4" angle iron for the tongue that did not extend back very far and also was sold with used car tires. After upgrading to 8-ply trailer tires and adding about 100 lbs of steel to extend and reinforce the frame (bought this trailer over 10 yrs ago and later bought my JD4600) I would guess I was closer to 1500 lbs with a spare tire also. Only had brakes on (1) axle, but braked fine. Some states require brakes on all axles, but I suspect that Texas does not for trailers under 10,000 lb since that's where I bought this trailer to start with. I think any of the trailers 10,000 lb and up have them on all axles.

PS: Don't forget to consider tire loading as well. That's one of the reasons I upgraded plus wanting to haul my brush cutter as well. I basically had too light a trailer and had to do a couple of trips.

I like the electric brake controller that has a digial readout so you can reset to similar numbers based on experience.

seasalt · Aug 25, 2005

Swanee,
What is the brand of the digital controller. Brakesafe (forgive me if I missed the exact name but you know what I mean), seems to be the favorite brand.

Swanee · Aug 25, 2005

The controller I have is not the most expensive of the bunch but works fine. Impulse brake control by Hoppy?? about $65

Another one out there is Journey heavy duty controller by Valley Industries about $85

Before that had tried a couple of Powerstop's. While the case was all metal and looked nice, both failed and stayed on all the time after a couple of weeks use (maybe sitting in sub-zero temps didn't help either). First, they replaced free, second one got junked and just went out and bought another brand. Having a dead battery twice just didn't make it worth it to try to get it replaced a second time.

RobertN · Aug 26, 2005

1. That's too much. Your maxxing out your trailer right off the bat.
I have a 7000lb trailer. It weighs 1600lbs, so I have a 5400lb capacity. I have run it at max, but I do not like to. Your really pushing a 7000lb trialer...
2. Don't know. I have electric...
3. Ge the brakes on both axles. I am going to upgrade mine to both axles. You can always turn the controler down if you have too much braking. But, when you need more, and it aint there, it's the pits. And, it does not cost that much more, especially since it is a custom build in your case.

You need a heavier trailer... Have you checked the GVWR and GCWR for you truck? I am assuming a Z71 is a 1/2 ton version?

Soundguy · Aug 26, 2005

Like the other poster said.. that leaves you 1450 for the trailer.. My 16' wood deck car hauler trailer weighs 1740# with 1 axle of electric breaks.. IMHO.. your 20' trailer will be light duty.. a-la landscape trailer at 1450#.. I'd expect it to fold at some point under the strain..

Soundguy